A while back, we examined the difference in sound quality between wired and wireless Apple CarPlay. Now that many Android-based smartphones have access to additional audio streaming codecs like LDAC and aptX, it’s time to check out how they perform in terms of signal accuracy and frequency response. We’ll use the Sony XAV-9000ES digital media receiver we tested in May 2024 for the test. Let’s see what happens!

The Test Criteria

The most important consideration in determining sound quality is frequency response. To evaluate this, we’ll conduct two tests. First, we’ll play a five-minute-long white noise track from an Android smartphone while it’s connected to the Sony radio’s USB port. We’ll use the averaging capabilities of our QuantAsylum QA403 to analyze the result. We are looking for as flat a response as possible here.

Next, we’ll connect the phone to the radio wirelessly and repeat the measurement. The frequency response results for an iPhone were similar over either connection.

The second test is to evaluate signal quality. We’ll play a 0dB 1kHz test tone for this test in both wired and wireless configurations. We’ll examine the harmonic content to evaluate how each scenario performs regarding purity. Perfect performance would mean that no additional harmonic information is added to the 1 kHz tone. In the case of the iPhone, the wireless connection couldn’t hold a candle to having the device hardwired to the source unit.

For reference, we’ll include measurements of the white noise and 1kHz test tone tracks played back from a USB memory stick. With an Apple iPhone as the source option, playing your music from a USB memory stick was hands down the best choice.

Frequency Response Testing

We should have mentioned that we are using a Samsung S9 running Android 10 for the testing. Yep, it’s a bit old, but it has LDAC. Should we stumble on a more recent model, we’ll repeat the testing and update.

Let’s dive right into the frequency response results, shall we? First, let’s look at the performance when using a wired connection to the smartphone.

Up first, we have the analysis of the white noise track played back from a USB memory stick. We’ve zoomed in so you can see if there is any roll-off.

Overall, the response looks just as we expected—flat out from 10 Hz to 96 kHz. Now, let’s switch to a wired connection while using Android Auto and see if that affects anything.

It’s clear that the audio signal starts to roll off at about 14 kHz, and it appears to be about 20 dB down by 22 kHz. There’s no audio information above 22 kHz, so the signal is not considered hi-res. Now, let’s switch to a wireless connection and measure the white noise track again.

In this test of the Sony radio and Samsung S9 phone, we can see that nothing above approximately 17 kHz is passed from the radio. We’d really like to try a new phone, though, to confidently assert that the wireless connection is this bad in all cases.

Signal Purity

The next test is to evaluate how the different playback options affect signal purity. In a perfect world, no additional audio content would be added to the test tone. However, every audio device adds some amount of harmonic content. The less added, the more precise and accurate the system will sound, assuming the frequency response remains unaltered.

First, we have the distortion performance when playing our test tone from a USB memory stick.

Overall, the Sony performed well, with a THD+N specification of 0.00581% and an output right around one volt. This would be considered excellent performance. Now, let’s see what happens when we play the same track from the Samsung phone using a wired Android Auto connection.

There’s a little more low-level noise below the 1 kHz tone, but overall, the performance is quite similar. Measured THD+N came in at a still respectable 0.01029%. Finally, let’s try this with a wireless connection.

Just as we saw when using an iPhone, the wireless connection adds a lot of low-level noise. While the graph looks much worse, the 3 kHz, -91 dBV spike remains the primary factor in determining total harmonic distortion. As such, the measured performance only decreases slightly to 0.01139%. This is still considered to be a good distortion number.

Conclusions on Wired Versus Wireless Android Auto Sound Quality

From the standpoint of our 1 kHz signal purity test, it remains clear that a USB connection outperforms wired or wireless connections. This is especially true regarding frequency response. The Android Auto connections would sound duller and less detailed than playing music from a USB memory stick.

If you’re after the best sound quality possible from a premium multimedia receiver, then put your music collection on a USB memory stick and connect that to your radio. If your radio doesn’t support the latest high-resolution audio formats, drop by a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer to see what they have to offer to upgrade the clarity of your mobile audio system.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

It wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say that we’ve seen dozens of posts asking about dash cameras that are easy to install and don’t cost much. We’ve all but beaten the topic of dash camera quality to death and have reviewed and analyzed several solutions from Momento and Thinkware. Based on the results of our testing, the words “inexpensive” and “dash cam” don’t belong in the same sentence.

Looking at the installation side, an easy installation would have the camera suction-cupped to your windshield and the power wire hanging down and plugged into the cigarette lighter socket—by the way, the proper term is now “Power Outlet.” From the standpoint of integration, this solution isn’t integrated at all. The wire is a safety hazard as it can be distracting. Trusting the camera mounting to a suction cup isn’t ideal either. Notably, no rear camera is present to capture what happens behind your vehicle. Not all accidents are going to happen in front of you.

We have decades of experience upgrading audio systems in cars and trucks. As such, we are more than capable of installing a modern dash camera system to a level that matches our standards. However, Ben and, more specifically, Ted from Safe Drive Solutions volunteered to handle the installation and permit us to document the process. Let’s check it out!

Pre-Installation Vehicle Preparation

Whenever you take your vehicle to a mobile enhancement retailer for upgrades or a service center for repairs, clean it out. Ensure there is nothing on the floor, in the cup holders, the back seat, or the cargo area/trunk. Anything left there must be moved, wasting the technician’s time. The goal is to clean the interior so the technician doesn’t have to deal with spilled coffee or stray french fries. Though this should be common courtesy, it often isn’t, so please heed this reminder.

Second—and this is something we obsess about—ensure your battery is fully charged. The technician will need a few hours to route wiring from the rear camera to the front unit and from the camera to a power source. The doors will be open most of this time. A battery that isn’t fully charged may not start the vehicle after the work is complete. We left our CTEK MUS7002 battery charger connected to the battery while Ted worked his magic.

Some shops have battery chargers for each vehicle they are working on. Ask the shop if they charge the vehicle battery while the doors are open.

Vehicle Protection Prevents Disasters

Most insurance policies don’t allow consumers to access the vehicle while work is underway. Having the vehicle owner hovering around the car during the work is a colossal distraction and liability.

When shopping for the best shop to work on your vehicle, you should ask whether they use seat, fender, or other protective covers while working. Accidents happen, and having a cover over the seats, steering wheel, and center console can prevent costly repairs. This is the attention to detail you want to see in every step of the upgrade process.

Pick the Right Dash Camera

Finally, make sure you’ve picked the camera you want. There are dozens of considerations when choosing a dash cam. What resolution are the image sensors? How does Parking Mode work? Does the camera offer HDR? How much current does the camera draw? What’s the image compression method? How large of an SD card will the camera accept? What is the field of vision? Does the camera have an LCD screen? Does the camera have Wi-Fi connectivity? There are probably another half-dozen essential questions you’ll want to ask the Product Specialist before you agree to the installation. Ensure the camera will do what you want and behave how you want before you consider booking the installation appointment.

Rear Camera Installation

Let’s dive into the nitty-gritty of this installation. Ted started with the rear camera. In this case, the rear camera in the kit is water-resistant and has an IP67 rating. Even though it would survive on the vehicle exterior, we wanted the camera mounted inside the rear window to keep the lens clean. Mounting it externally would be ideal for a delivery or cargo van without a rear window.

Front Camera Installation

The next step is to pick a location for the front camera. We wanted the camera hidden from view, so we chose the passenger side of the windshield. This location conceals the camera behind the rearview mirror. While we can set the display to turn off to reduce distraction, this location also prevents the camera from blocking any of our field of vision.

Someone at Kenwood put more than a moment of thought into the design of the connectors on the side of the camera. They are both low-profile right-angle units, which reduces the camera’s visual footprint compared to something with a power cord that sticks straight out. Nice work!

Ted bundled the power harness and the rear camera cable together using automotive-grade cloth tape. This makes the installation much neater than using zip-ties or electrical tape. He has small wire-routing tabs he can stick to the windshield or trim if needed, but the wiring naturally stayed right up against the rain sensor and Lane Keep Assist camera pod at the top of the windshield.

Perhaps one of the most important aspects of a dash camera installation is how the wiring is routed down the A-pillar. Most vehicles have a side-curtain airbag. You don’t want any wiring to interfere with this safety device. As such, the wiring should be installed with the factory wiring that runs behind the bag.

Dash Camera Electrical Connections

We could write a full essay on the benefits and drawbacks of how electrical connections for the camera are made. In this instance, Ted had already researched where to get constant power, accessory, and ground wires in the factory wiring. As any good technician should, he used a high-quality multimeter to test that the wires functioned as he expected before going forward. Once satisfied, he stripped the jacket off the wires and soldered the connections from the Kenwood hardwire kit to them. The connections are protected with automotive-grade tape. No wiring should ever be visible around the fuse panel, around the door seal or A-pillar trim, or across the top of the windshield.

The Kenwood dash camera has a color display on the back and can provide a real-time view on a smartphone using the Kenwood Dash Cam Manager app. We looked at the image on our smartphone as we picked a final installation location for both the front and rear cameras. Once chosen, he thoroughly cleaned the glass using alcohol wipes to ensure the two-sided tape would remain secure.

Camera Configuration

Wiring and mounting a dash camera are only three-quarters of the project. Ted set the time and date on the camera and turned on the date stamp feature. We then discussed whether we wanted parking mode enabled and reviewed the different configuration options in the smartphone menu. It was clear that he’d done this hundreds of times.

Even though we have extensive experience with dash camera configuration and testing, he offered to explain how the sensitivity settings are adjusted for impact detection. Furthermore, he ensured we could connect the phone to download videos. We had it covered, but these processes separate the paid amateurs from the true professionals.

We finished by ensuring the camera powered up and down correctly as the ignition was turned on and off. Ted mentioned that the wire color codes on some wire harnesses don’t match industry standards, so he always tests the system thoroughly before he calls the job done. We know for a fact many shops overlook this simple step.

After-Installation Clean-Up

What impressed us the most was that Ted went through the entire working area with a damp cloth and interior detailing cleaner to ensure there wasn’t a speck of dust or fingerprints left behind. He also ensured there were no wire jacket strippings or zip tie ends on the floor where he worked. He also repacked the camera boxes so we had all the owner’s manuals and warranty information in one place. He finished the project by presenting his business card and letting us know he was available for any questions or concerns.

Professional Dash Camera Installation

The camera installation and configuration took about two hours to complete. Ted says that’s pretty much normal for modern vehicles. Systems with only a front camera take less time, and systems with three or more cameras are more involved. Adding an external battery like the Thinkware iVolt Xtra can also add time to the project. We are considering a battery pack upgrade in the future.

As we have repeatedly harped on, shopping for a professional to work on your vehicle is no easy task. We’ve known Ben at Safe Drive Solutions for decades and knew that if he was confident enough to partner with Ted, his attention to detail and processes would meet our high standards. He delivered in spades. This article should provide a good set of questions to ask when shopping for someone to integrate a dash camera system into your vehicle. Please don’t skimp on the quality of the camera you choose or who installs it.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Many professionals in the car audio industry started their careers as novices installing equipment for themselves or friends in their driveways and garages. That hands-on experience typically led to a job at a local shop and allowed them to learn more about electrical theory, acoustics, physics, and fabrication. Those who have invested time in understanding these advanced concepts offer impressive value to consumers. That said, this experience and efficiency come at a cost. Let’s look at the benefits and drawbacks of professional versus DIY car audio upgrades.

Consideration 1: Time

Let’s say you want to install a new radio in your car or truck. You’ll need to go to the store, audition several radio options, then purchase the radio and all the necessary installation accessories. These days, you likely need a data interface, wire harness adapter, antenna adapter, USB adapter, and a mounting kit.

When you get home, you’ll connect the harness from the radio to the wire harness adapter. Then, you have to take the dash apart. If you have an older vehicle, this could be as simple as removing a few screws. Some older vehicles required special keys or tools to remove the radio. In some vehicles, you might have to remove the glove box or center console trim and parts of the dash before the radio becomes accessible. You’ll also need to remove trim pieces around the windshield to run the hands-free mic. Speaking of the Bluetooth mic, you’ll need to know where to install it and how to secure the wire so that it doesn’t drop down in front of the windshield.

Connecting the wiring is usually pretty simple. However, finding a location for the new modules and connectors can be a pain. We know people who have spent more than an hour trying to get a new radio to fit into the dash because of all the extra wiring and magic interface boxes.

Vehicle Interface Modules

Speaking of modules, you’ll want to include a steering wheel button interface. Depending on the unit you purchase, getting this programmed and working can take another 30 to 60 minutes. You may also need access to a computer to program the interface, so downloads and drivers on a Windows PC are in your future.

If the project goes well, between making the purchase, wiring, installation, and clean-up, you’ll likely need at least four to five hours. If there are issues and you have to go back to the store, the time could easily increase by 50%.

On the other hand, if you have a professional do the installation, they will most likely have already worked on your vehicle’s make and model. Buying a radio and then having it installed typically takes less than two hours.

Winner: Professional Installation

Consideration 2: Cost

We aren’t saying that your time doesn’t have value. From the standpoint of the raw out-of-pocket cost to upgrade a radio or install an amplifier, your time is free. On the other hand, paying a professional to work on your vehicle will cost well over $100 an hour.

If you have an entire day available and want to try an installation yourself, that’s your decision. If you have a busy schedule with family, work, sports, and time with friends, then spending an entire day guessing how to take your car apart, where to connect wires, how to configure modules, and put the whole thing back together without buzzes or rattles might be less appealing.

Nevertheless, installing it yourself is effectively free.

Winner: DIY

Consideration 3: Risk

Now, you might think we were stacking the cards in favor of the professionals with the list of challenges associated with upgrading a radio or adding an amplifier. While this is true, there is a long list of potential issues in terms of DIY automotive work.

First, there is liability. What if something goes wrong? What if a wire or tool slips and you short the accessory output of the body control module to ground? A new BCM will cost hundreds of dollars and might need to be programmed into the vehicle, which is likely another $150. One slip could cost you $500, plus the time and cost of getting and installing the part. If the damage is severe, you might not be able to drive the vehicle until the component is replaced.

If you damage a trim piece, that will also be expensive. The trim pieces for either side of an older Ford F-150 radio are about $100 each, and an A-pillar for a Hyundai Sonata is about the same.

Taking cars apart is a skill. Knowing where clips and fasteners are located combines talent and technology. Professional shops often subscribe to services like ProDemand from Mitchell1. ProDemand offers detailed instructions on how to take different parts of the vehicle apart and reassemble them. Shops can pay up to a few hundred dollars a month for this information. They work on vehicles all day, every day. As such, the investment is worthwhile in ensuring your vehicle is put back together perfectly.

Most importantly, if a shop working on your car or truck breaks something, they will repair or replace it. If it’s significant, their insurance company will make it right. If you are working with a reputable mobile enhancement retailer, the odds of something going wrong are slim. However, knowing they will make it right in the long run is paramount.

Winner: Professional Installation

Consideration 4: Technology

Working on a modern vehicle audio system is stunningly complicated, even when it seems quite simple. A base-model radio with four or six speakers likely includes equalization, all-pass filters, and signal delays. Yes, even systems without amplifiers include these technologies.

For example, many Chrysler and Dodge vehicles use a woofer in the front door and a small midrange speaker in the dash or sail panel. If you upgrade that speaker without considering the equalization in the signal from the amp, the system will sound bright and harsh.

Professional shops have the tools and training needed to measure the performance of the factory-installed audio system. Using that information, they can suggest upgrade solutions that will make new speakers sound better.

What are the consequences of not having this information? As mentioned above, new, better speakers might sound worse than the originals. If you integrate with a line-output converter, you might overdrive the device. This condition would result in significant distortion and potentially damage the speakers. Knowing how the factory-installed system functions is crucial to designing an upgrade that will sound excellent.

Winner: Professional Installation

Consideration 5: Materials and Quality

You will need some supplies to perform a high-quality installation. Good-quality wire cutters and crimpers are essential. For crimpers, those multi-tool crimpers and strippers don’t work well. A set of dedicated wire crimping pliers is the bare minimum standard. As Panduit and 3M outline, the proper tool is a ratcheting crimper.

If you are installing a radio, you will also need zip ties and heat-shrink or maybe electrical tape. You can spend anywhere from pennies to dollars on electrical tape. Don’t skimp on what you buy if you want it to remain adhered in temperatures from -40 to almost 140.

Say you need to build a set of speaker mounting adapters. Professional shops no longer use wood for adapters. Materials like expanded PVC, acrylic, ABS, Corian, or even aluminum are impervious to water damage. Further, they can be shaped to mimic the original mounting and are effective against water damage. You will need a router, a router lift, and a selection of cutting bits to make these adapters look like they belong. So, tack on another $1,000 for that.

You can certainly purchase any of these items or materials. However, you likely have to buy significantly more material than you’ll ever need. You’ll also have to invest in the tools to make the parts.

Winner: Professional Installation

Consideration 6: System Configuration and Calibration

One installation aspect that is continually overlooked is system configuration and calibration. Let’s say you’ve purchased a new radio. If it’s a mid-level or higher model, it likely has a 10-band equalizer, at the very least. Leaving this unconfigured is like ordering chicken wings without sauce at Duffs in Niagara Falls, NY. You’re going to miss out on something important.

Suppose your audio system includes adding a subwoofer and amplifier; testing to ensure the acoustic polarity between the sub and the rest of the speakers is crucial. If the system has a digital signal processor, adjusting the relative phase around this crossover point may be possible. Getting this right is crucial to making the system sound amazing.

Once again, it’s possible to purchase all this hardware and invest time in learning how to use it, but that will cost at least a few hundred dollars and require days of research and experimentation.

Winner: Professional Installation

What is Professional Car Audio Installation?

Searching for a shop to upgrade your vehicle starts with visiting the shops in your area. Ask the Product Specialist the same questions and consider their responses carefully. Are they working to help you find a solution that matches your goals, or are they more focused on maximizing their profits? Look at the shop’s website and social media. Do they have examples of their work, or are they just focused on selling as many boxes as possible to anyone who comes through their doors?

Study Their Work

Speaking of work, ask to see examples of what they’ve done. Look at the wiring. Is it tidy? Is it safe? Do they waste time making wiring look fancy, or is it hidden and properly protected? Look at how equipment is secured to the vehicle. Will a subwoofer enclosure stay in place, or will it become a lethal projectile in the event of an accident? Attention to detail is the name of the game here.

Ask about warranty coverage. What warranty do they offer on their workmanship? What are their policies on product warranty? Do you have to pay for removal and reinstallation? What about paying for shipping? Do they offer an over-the-counter exchange program on products they have installed? Do any of these policies apply to cash-and-carry items?

Professional or DIY Car Audio Upgrades

We do not doubt that we’ll get a LOT of feedback on this topic. There are excellent examples of DIY car audio upgrades. Sadly, there are hundreds of times as many examples of poor or dangerous work. As much fun as it is to tinker, your car is a complex machine. Vehicle manufacturers put a stunning amount of emphasis on reliability and safety when they design it.

If you want your car audio system to sound better, start researching which shop in your area does the best work and offers the highest-performing products for the money. Look for retailers with MECP Certified Product Specialists and Installation Technicians. Work with them to design an upgrade that fits your budget, meets your performance goals, and provides the best reliability. We know you’ll be happy with the investment if you choose wisely.

Lead-in image: On the left is a custom subwoofer enclosure created by Musicar Northwest in Portland, OR. It houses a single 10-inch driver and, most crucially, looks like it belongs in the vehicle. On the right is an amateur installation brought to Broken Silence Car Audio in Greenwich, CT, to be fixed—the ‘after’ photo is shown above.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.