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A Look at Shopping for Wakeboard Tower Speakers for Your Boat

Wakeboard Speakers

If your family and friends enjoy wakeboarding or waterskiing, you may have considered adding a set of wakeboard tower speakers to your boat. These marine audio speaker systems are designed to project sound to the person at the end of the tow rope rather than fill the boat with sound. Their design is often unique, and the speakers used are different from those mounted in the hull or a storage compartment. Let’s take a look at some design considerations for wakeboard tower speakers.

Wakeboard Tower Speaker Purchasing Considerations

The first thing you’ll need to decide when shopping for wakeboard tower speakers is their size. The size of the speaker has several benefits and a few drawbacks. The first consideration is how high your wakeboard tower bar is above the floor of your boat. If the bar is only 6 feet high, adding a 10-inch tower enclosure will result in you and your boatmates hitting your heads on them when you’re moving around. Tower speakers from various reputable companies are available in 6.5-, 7.7-, 8-, 10- and 12-inch diameters. Before you head off to a store to audition the speakers, check to see how much clearance you have.

The next consideration for speaker size is weight. It should go without saying that adding weight to your tower bar can, if the weight is significant enough, affect the stability or handling of your boat. Now, a pair of 8-inch wakeboard tower speakers isn’t likely to be noticeable. However, four 10- or 12-inch enclosures could easily weigh 60 pounds or more. If you have a 24-foot wakeboard boat that can take on a few thousand pounds of ballast, this is less of an issue than on a 20-foot boat with more limited weight-gaining abilities.

The benefit of larger-diameter speakers is their efficiency. A well-engineered 6.5-inch tower speaker might produce 88 dB SPL of output (at 1 meter) when driven with 1 watt of power. Moving up to a 10-inch speaker, that number can jump to a crazy 97 dB SPL. The smaller enclosures would need to be fed with 2.8 watts of power to produce the same output. At higher volume levels, the difference is more significant. To replicate the output of the big speakers getting 20 watts, the smaller, less-efficient solution would need to handle 159 watts of power. If you’re limited in how much power the electrical system on your boat can supply, then the efficiency of a larger speaker is quite worthwhile.

A second benefit of larger speakers is that they can often handle significantly more power than their smaller brethren. This added power handling typically translates into an increased maximum output level. You might consider a pair of 10-inch cans instead of four 8-inch speakers. The term “cans” is industry slang for a wakeboard tower speaker enclosure.

Wakeboard Speakers
Rockford Fosgate’s M2WL-10H tower speakers feature a 10-inch woofer, a 1-inch horn tweeter and integrated Color-Optix RGB lighting.

High-Efficiency or Full-Range?

There are two schools of thought when designing wakeboard tower speakers. First, some companies use somewhat of a conventional marine audio speaker in their enclosures but optimize them with less compliance (softer spider and surround) to play lower better when installed in a small enclosure. These enclosures are more a full-range solution and often produce reasonable midbass output.

The second type of power speaker uses a midrange driver that’s more like what you’d find in a concert or public address speaker system. These drivers have very light cones with shorter, lighter voice coil windings. These designs are quite efficient, but they don’t produce much midbass because the drivers have minimal excursion capability. As a result, if you try to crank up the bass on this type of speaker, it will distort and sound terrible. It could also be damaged easily.

Wakeboard Speakers
Hertz offers several 8-inch marine tower speakers with RGB lighting and your choice of black or white enclosures.

Tower Mounting Brackets

When shopping for a tower speaker, you need to take a close look at the mounting system. A larger tower speaker could weigh 20 to 25 pounds. Consider the abuse it will take as your boat pounds over waves to fling the kids off a tube or other inflatable. That poor speaker enclosure could be subjected to several times its resting mass because of these g-forces.

The mounting hardware must be designed to perfectly fit the tower bar on your boat. You need to know whether your tower bar is round or oval, and you should have an exact measurement of its diameter or circumference. Most high-quality tower speakers have machined or cast aluminum brackets with rubber inserts. Your specific application may require that the speakers be angled relative to the mounting bracket. Consider the mounting options and inspect the mounting brackets at the store before purchasing to ensure that they’re robust and well-engineered. The last thing you want is for the speakers to be pointed at the sky or down at the water because they can be adjusted the way you want.

Wakeboard Speakers
The Hertz Q-OS² (Quick Orientation & Release for Sound & Safety) allows your installer to rotate the enclosures to direct them toward skiers.

Marine Tower Speaker Lighting

If you’ve been paying attention to the marine speaker market over the last few years, you know cool lighting is all the rage. Most reputable companies have RGB LED lighting built into the speakers, and many have lighting upgrades for their tower speaker enclosures. If you want your speakers to look funky or cool, ask about the lighting controller options available for them. Most lighting controllers come with a radio-frequency remote control or Bluetooth connection to a smartphone app. A few will let your installer connect the output of your radio to the controller so the lighting can change with the beat of the music.

If you plan to upgrade all the speakers on your boat to units with lighting, be sure the controller has enough power output capability to drive them. Also, look for integrated lighting solutions that are 100% waterproof with an IPX6 or higher rating.

Wakeboard Speakers
Hertz offers a stand-alone RGB LED controller called the HM RGB 1 BK to control the tower speakers’ lighting.

Wiring Considerations

A clean and tidy wakeboard tower speaker installation will feature well-concealed wiring. Ideally, you don’t want speaker wires zip-tied to the outside of the wakeboard tower tubing. Talk with your installer about how they’ll run wiring and whether they’ll add weather-tight quick disconnects if you need to remove the tower for winter storage. Many tower speakers will include a Deutsch or Amphenol connector integrated into the fiberglass or plastic housing for speaker and lighting connections.

Additional considerations for tower speaker wiring are the wire size, construction and quality. For example, if you have a pair of 10-inch enclosures that will receive up to 250 watts of power from an amplifier, you could be wasting energy if the installer uses an 18-gauge wire. Therefore, we’d suggest that at least 14 AWG wire be used for high-power marine tower speaker installations.

Second, make sure the wire is high quality. Because it will be used in a high-humidity application, you’ll want to avoid copper-clad aluminum wiring. Avoiding aluminum wiring is even more critical if you use your boat in salt water. The ideal choice is a tinned copper wire. The tinning helps to prevent corrosion.

Depending on the design of your wakeboard tower, you may want to look for a speaker solution with wiring that is completely concealed. Many boat-brand-specific towers route the wiring up through the center of the mounting bracket. Check into this before you go shopping.

Wakeboard Speakers
Rockford Fosgate’s marine tower speakers have two wiring options: through the center of the connector or out the back to tidy the installation.

Weather-Resistant Designs

At the very least, your tower speakers will be exposed to the harsh sun for the entire summer. If you live in the South, they could be outdoors all year. Choosing products constructed with weather-resistant materials is crucial to the performance and longevity of your tower speaker system. You’ll want to make sure that the enclosures, wiring and speaker components (woofers cones, tweeter diaphragms and surrounds) are all designed to handle prolonged UV exposure. Confirmation that the products have passed a testing standard like ASTM D4329 is a minimum.

If you’re using your boat in salt water, then corrosion mitigation is also a concern. The ASTM B117 is a salt-fog exposure test that will tell you if components will corrode or discolor when exposed to salt water.

You’ll also want to ensure that the speaker system is water-resistant. An ingress protection rating of at least IPX6 is a good starting point.

Wakeboard Speakers
Rockford Fosgate labels its weather-resistant speakers with the Element Ready moniker, so you know they’ll be durable.

Auditioning Wakeboard Tower Speakers

If you’ve been a longtime reader of BestCarAudio.com, you should be able to predict this last speaker-purchasing suggestion. You will want to audition the speakers you have in mind for your boat. Since this type of speaker will often be played at high volume levels, that’s how you want to audition them. We suggest starting by standing as far away from the speakers as possible and ask the product specialist to play your favorite music at a high volume. While you’re looking for output capability, what you want to capture from this experience is how clear the sound is. The speakers will sound garbled and unclear if they are overdriven because of too much bass information. The demonstration might need to include some setup for high-efficiency speaker designs.

Ultimately, you want to know what you’re buying to understand how they will sound when installed on your boat. If there is any harshness or muddiness in what you hear, you’ll want to keep shopping.

Upgrade Your Boat with New Wakeboard Tower Speakers

If you plan on spending a day on the water, having a great audio system can make things even more enjoyable. Your friends and family members at the end of the tow rope will love enjoying the music through a set of wakeboard tower speakers. Drop by a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer today to find out about the speakers they have available for your application.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Marine Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Benefits and Drawbacks of Using Dashcam Parking Mode

Parking Mode

Given the proliferation of fraud, accidents and sheer craziness on the roads today, having a dashcam in your vehicle is, at the very least, a wise investment. These compact camera systems capture video of everything that happens while you drive, in the event you need to share information with the authorities or on social media. Many dashcam systems have a parking mode feature that allows the camera to continue capturing information even when the ignition is turned off. Let’s look at how this feature works and consider its benefits and limitations.

What Is Parking Mode?

Parking mode on modern dashcams is activated automatically when the vehicle remains stationary for a few minutes, or the ignition is turned off. At this time, the dashcam stops storing video on the microSD card but continues to monitor the signal from the image sensor. When there is a significant change in the image content, as would happen when someone steps into the field of vision or a vehicle drives by, the dashcam will store a video of what’s happening. The concept of parking mode is to allow “motion only” videos to be stored while the vehicle is parked. This functionality is similar to security camera systems that are activated by motion. For example, the camera should record what happens if someone approaches your vehicle to vandalize it, tamper with it or try to steal it.

The advantage of motion-activated video recording is that the files on the microSD card should contain only important information and not hours of the same fixed scene. For example, suppose you’ve backed your vehicle into your driveway. In that case, you will likely have videos of the neighbors walking their dogs or people driving home from work, along with anything that might identify someone with ulterior motives toward your car or truck.

Parking Mode
A dashcam can help you identify a thief who has stolen a catalytic converter. Image Credit: Nathanial Arfin

Drawbacks of Parking Mode

A dashcam is a small computer. It has a microprocessor, memory and storage. All computers consume moderate amounts of electricity to operate. When the engine in your vehicle isn’t running, that electrical energy needs to come from the battery. Most dashcams consume between 200 and 500 milliamps of current while in operation.

It should come as no surprise that the battery in your vehicle is limited in terms of the energy it can store. When the vehicle was designed, the battery size was chosen to provide adequate capacity without being so oversized that it represented a weight penalty. If you have an older vehicle, the only circuit that might draw power from the battery when the ignition is off would be the clock in the dash or the radio. These devices might draw a few milliamps. Modern vehicles include many more features and consume a lot more energy. If you have a keyless entry system, the vehicle will have a radio receiver integrated into the security or body control module. Many premium vehicles have telematics systems that use cellular data communication. If a smartphone app is available to remote start or unlock your vehicle, then this radio transceiver will be drawing current while the vehicle is turned off.

How long do these “background” systems take to deplete a modern car battery? Most modern vehicles draw 20 to 30 milliamps of current when fully asleep. If you have a keyless entry system, this amount increases. Let’s use 40 milliamps as a nominal value. The average new car has a group 124 car battery, or at least something similar. Luxury vehicles with more technology might have a larger battery, while economy cars might have a smaller one. When fully charged, these batteries typically have a reserve capacity of 65 to 80 amp-hours. Though most batteries are rarely fully charged, for this example, let’s consider a battery with 70 amp-hours of capacity. If we divide the battery capacity by the draw, we get the hours the battery should last before depleting. In this example, we should be able to leave the vehicle unattended and unused for about 73 days. I’d suggest that starting the vehicle after sitting that long will be VERY difficult. Nevertheless, that’s the math with a 40-milliamp draw.

What happens if we add a dashcam with 350 milliamps of draw to the battery? Suddenly, we only have seven and a half days of capacity. If your vehicle’s battery wasn’t fully charged using an external battery charger, I suggest you’d be lucky to get half of these times and still be able to start the vehicle.

Parking Mode
Professional technicians should have tools to measure how much current is drawn from your car battery.

Automatic Turn-Off Features

When shopping for a dashcam with plans to use the parking mode feature, look for one that a professional installer can hard-wire into your vehicle. These dashcams will have a power and accessory wire rather than a cigarette lighter plug. Second, make sure the camera has an adjustable low-voltage cut-off feature. Your installer can specify the battery voltage at which the camera will shut down and prevent your vehicle’s battery from being drained, so you can’t start it without a boost. Lastly, ask them to set this voltage relatively high. I’d suggest that 12.3 volts should leave you enough reserve to start the vehicle. The absolute voltage depends on the condition of your battery and how often you drive the vehicle.

Parking Mode
If you’re using a dashcam’s parking mode feature, ensure that it has an integrated low-voltage cut-off feature so it won’t drain your vehicle’s battery.

Charge Your Car Battery Properly

If you drain the battery in your vehicle, it MUST be recharged properly. Running the engine for 15 minutes or going for a short drive will NOT put any significant charge back into the battery. Instead, you should connect an external electronic charger to the battery for at least 10 to 15 hours and let it absorb energy slowly. Forcing large amounts of current into a battery quickly only causes unwanted heat that could damage the lead plates and reduce the energy storage capacity.

Parking Mode
An electronic battery charger like the CTEK MUS7002 is a great way to ensure that your car battery is topped up and ready to go.

Alternate Dashcam Parking Mode Technologies

A few dashcam manufacturers have switched from image-sensor-based parking mode monitoring to solutions like radar. For example, the Momento M7 camera we reviewed in 2022 has a feature called Eco Mode. When activated, the camera uses a built-in ultrasonic transceiver to detect motion in front of the vehicle when in parking mode. The benefit of Eco Mode is that the camera only consumes about 32 milliamps of current while monitoring. Yes, the consumption increases while recording, but that only lasts for a minute or so. At 32 milliamps, our 70 amp-hour car battery can last almost 27 days. Call it 20 days, given the assumption it will make several recordings and draw some extra energy. The takeaway is that a camera like this will strain your vehicle’s battery less.

Parking Mode
Dashcams like the Momento M7 include features that dramatically reduce current consumption when monitoring parking mode.

Protect Your Vehicle Intelligently

A dashcam with a parking mode feature is a wise investment if you’re concerned about vandalism or catalytic converter theft. Talk with the product specialists at a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer. They can tell you which cameras they offer include the parking mode feature and discuss how much current each model consumes so you’ll know how long your battery will last.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Driver Safety, RESOURCE LIBRARY, Vehicle Security

Want More Power? Get More Power Wire!

Power Wire

Once again, we approach a discussion of the laws of physics and how they affect the electrical systems in our cars and trucks. The enemy of all power transmission systems, be it the battery and alternator to the amplifier in your vehicle or the nuclear power station or hydroelectric dam across the state to your home, is resistance. I saw a power wire sizing chart earlier this week that had me rethink how car audio systems are wired, so I thought we’d take another look.

Ohm’s Law and Wasted Power

Ohm’s Law states that for every amp of current that flows through a resistance of 1 ohm, 1 volt is produced across that resistance. If we lower the current, less voltage is produced. If we reduce the resistance, less voltage is produced. We are typically limited to 14 volts from a fully functional alternator in our cars and trucks. If the wiring between the alternator and the amplifier has resistance (and it does), some of the voltage is wasted across the wire and doesn’t reach the amp. Most aftermarket amplifiers in car audio systems have loosely or completely unregulated power supplies. As such, the amplifiers can produce more power if fed more voltage. Conversely, if we starve them for voltage, the maximum power they can produce decreases.

Power Wiring and Voltage Loss

A member of the Motorsport Wiring Alliance Facebook Group posted the chart below. The folks at WireCare provided him with the chart in response to an inquiry about the conductor’s current carrying limits. What’s unique about this chart is that it considers conductor size based on temperature rather than voltage drop. Why is this important? When a conductor heats up, its resistance increases. The increased resistance produces more heat, which creates even more resistance. It’s easy to see that this can quickly result in a runaway situation.

Power Wire
Tefzel wire amperage chart as provided by WireCare.

Now, before we get into a discussion about why choosing the correct wire size is essential, let’s talk about Tefzel wire specifically. If you’re accustomed to the typical wiring used for car audio upgrades, Tefzel is entirely different. This type of wire uses an ethylene tetrafluoroethylene copolymer (ETFE) jacket that can withstand temperatures up to 150 degrees Celsius. The primary power wire most car audio folks use has a PVC jacket and is rated for around 105 degrees Celsius.

It’s worth noting that Tefzel is a brand of ETFE and not specifically a brand of wire. When referring to Tefzel wire, the name describes the type of jacket on the wire. Tefzel is a type of ETFE resin and is sold as a raw plastic material in pellet form. Tefzel is also used in heat-shrink tubing, valve linings and biomedical equipment. Tefzel is a Chemours Co. brand, just like Teflon, Viton and Freon.

Power Wire
Tefzel versus conventional 18 AWG wire. Image Credit: Rob Dahm https://youtu.be/z1X0Mp_-WJk

Tefzel is the standard for aviation wiring and custom wire harnessing that you’d find on any professional-level race car. A key advantage to Tefzel is that the shielding is very thin and durable, which results in smaller-diameter wire bundles. Further, the ETFE jacket doesn’t contain chlorine, which produces a lot of smoke when it burns – a key consideration in aeronautics applications. The downside is that it’s expensive. But, as they say, you get what you pay for.

A secondary benefit of the thin jacket is the ability of the wire to dissipate heat quickly compared with a conductor with a thick jacket. Allowing heat to escape to the air around the wire helps keep the resistance down, which minimizes voltage losses and improves efficiency. However, if you look at the above chart, the ratings are not directly comparable to typical car audio wiring in dissipating heat.

Let Your Power Wire Be Free!

If you’re feeling particularly geeky, I recommend browsing NASA’s Re-Architecting the NASA Wire Derating Approach for Space Flight Applications document. In short, bunding many wires together can dramatically reduce their ampacity as heat generated in the conductor cannot escape the wire bundle easily. If you have a bunch of wires zip-tied together, they could present more resistance and consequently waste more energy than if each were out in the open with nothing touching them. From their research, a single 26 AWG conductor in free space could handle up to 4.7 amps of current and not exceed 200 degrees. When that same conductor was at the core of a bundle of 32 other wires, the maximum allowable current was 1.9 amps to reach a similar temperature. What’s the takeaway? Routing wiring away from heat sources will dramatically improve its current carrying performance.

Power Wire
This chart from Corsa Technic (https://www.corsa-technic.com) describes the typical current derating for wire bundles.

This chart shows how the current handling capability of wiring decreases as more and more conductors are bundled together.

Power Wire and Heat Calculations

It’s common practice to consider all-copper 4 AWG power wire suitable to deliver up to 100 amps of current to an amplifier. Assuming the wire meets the ANSI/CTA-2015 Mobile Electronics Cabling Standard, 1 meter of 4 AWG should have no more than 0.88 milliohm of resistance. Assuming we usually need about 4.5 meters of wire to run from the battery to an amplifier in the trunk, we’d have a drop of 0.396 volt across the wire when 100 amps pass through it. Assuming the ground path has a similar resistance, that’s another 0.396-ish volt of drop. So we’ve lost about 0.8 volt from whatever the alternator produced.

I’ve measured dozens of copper-clad aluminum amp kits over the years. The best of those kits had a resistance of 1.43 milliohms per meter, and the worst I’ve tested had 3.37 milliohms per meter. So if we attempt to draw the same amount of current through those conductors, we have a voltage drop of 0.6435 and 1.517 volts, respectively. Add the drop of the return path, and you have a total of just over a volt and almost 2 volts for the dramatically undersized 4 gauge CCA wire.

The Tefzel wire chart describes an appropriate wire size for a given operating temperature range. In the case of their 4 AWG wire, their wire has an even lower resistance of 0.816 milliohm per meter. Drawing 100 amps through 4.5 meters of their wire results in a voltage drop of 0.367 volt. Honestly, that’s not worth the added cost. It’s also not the point of this discussion.

Tefzel rates the ampacity of their wire based on its operating temperature. According to their chart, 72 amps of current through Tefzel 4 AWG will raise the wire temperature by 35 degrees. Some simple math tells us that the wire dissipates 4.23 watts of energy per meter at that current level. For the maximum temperature to increase by only 10 degrees, they state that 40 amps is the maximum, which is 1.31 watts per meter. If we reverse the math, a 4 AWG car-audio-style all-copper power wire is only suitable for 38.55 amps of current to produce a temperature increase of 10 degrees. If we accept the 35-degree temperature increase, we max out at 69.35 amps. What about the CCA wire? The “good” CCA wire could pass 54.4 amps of current for the 35-degree rating, and the woefully undersized CCA is only good for 35.45 amps.

The issue with exceeding the ampacity rating of the wire is that it heats up. Pure copper has a temperature resistance coefficient of 0.00393. This means that for every increase in temperature of 1 degree Celsius, the resistance of the wire goes up by 0.393%.

Power Wire

As you can see, the effect of a conductor getting hot can dramatically increase its resistance. For example, at 100 degrees C, 4 AWG has more resistance than a conductor with an equivalent size to 5 AWG at 20 degrees.

Thankfully, we play music, not test tones, through our audio systems. Because of the dynamic nature of music, we get an averaging effect that dramatically reduces the power an amplifier needs to produce. Assuming you aren’t playing basshead music, it wouldn’t be unreasonable to consider that the average amplitude of a rock track would be about 12 dB, which equates to a 16x reduction in required power. In the context of our wire size discussion, if the maximum current your amp would draw is 100 amps, the average might be down to around 6.25 amps. Of course, there are a LOT of variables in that statement, but even if the average is 25 amps, you have a significant safety margin.

Power Wire
Sony’s XS-5ES includes power terminals accepting 0 AWG wire to ensure reliable power delivery.

Don’t Starve Your Car Audio Amplifier

The first takeaway is that 2 AWG power wire needs to be much more prevalent in car audio applications. For example, a 1,500-watt amplifier that’s reasonably efficient would work well with 2 AWG wire.

Secondly, if you want your amplifier to produce all the power it claims, you must choose a high-quality power wire large enough for your application. The average power produced by an amplifier might be well below the maximum ratings, but that doesn’t mean you might still be limited when the peaks happen. Don’t skimp on power wire size or quality. A great way to add some reserve energy is to have the technician working on your car install a high-quality stiffening capacitor near the amplifier. Consult with a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer when choosing the correct power wire for the installation they’re performing.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

How Digital Audio Works – The Stairstep Analogy

Digital Stairstep

In the fall of 1982, Billy Joel’s 52nd Street was among the first 50 albums released as consumer-available compact discs. It had been only about four years since digital recording equipment was introduced to studios. This marked a revolutionary change in how consumers would buy their music. It was the dawn of an all-digital era, where performers could have their music captured with impressive accuracy and minimal background noise for delivery to consumers. Since then, not much has changed in the way we digitally capture and store analog waveforms. We just have a few more bits of depth to improve noise performance and higher sampling rates to ensure that bats and mice can hear that extra octave.

On the reproduction side of things, dozens of companies have made claims about increases in performance because of these higher sampling rates and increased bit depth. Unfortunately, the marketing guys haven’t been talking to the engineers to understand how the process works. This article will look at the digital stairstep analogy and explain why it’s misleading.

How Is Analog Audio Sampled?

Digital audio sampling is a relatively simple process. An analog-to-digital converter (ADC) measures the voltage of a waveform at a specific rate and outputs digital information that represents those amplitudes. The sampling rate defines the number of samples per second, determining the Nyquist frequency. The Nyquist frequency is the highest frequency the ADC can record accurately and is half the sample rate. For a compact disc with a sampling rate of 44.1 kHz, the highest frequency is 22.05 kHz. This frequency is beyond what most humans can hear, so it’s more than high enough to capture any audio signal we’d need to reproduce.

Bit depth describes the number of discrete amplitudes captured in a sampling process. If you have read audio brochures or looked at websites, you’ve undoubtedly seen a drawing showing several cubes intended to represent samples of an analog waveform. These diagrams are often referred to as stairstep drawings.

Digital Stairstep
An example of a digital stairstep drawing intended to show errors in waveform storage.

The size of the blocks on the horizontal scale represents the sampling rate, and the size on the vertical scale is the bit depth. We have 20 levels in this simulation, equating just over 4.3 bits of resolution. It’s not difficult to see that this would introduce some amount of error and unwanted noise. However, even the earliest digital samplers, like the Fairlight CMI, had only 8 bits of depth, equating 256 possible amplitudes. Later versions increased the bit depth to 16, dramatically improving sample accuracy.

Once we have enough bit depth, we can accurately reproduce the waveform without adding unwanted noise. For example, the orange data in the image below has lots of bit depth, and the difference between the orange and blue would be perceived as noise in the recording.

Digital Stairstep
A comparison of noise generated when a digital recording doesn’t have enough bit depth.

What about those steps? Isn’t music supposed to be a smooth analog waveform and not a bunch of steps? Companies that purport to offer support for higher resolution audio files or those with more bit depth will often put a second image beside the first with smaller blocks. The intention is to describe their device as being more accurate.

Digital Stairstep
A screenshot from a 2006 car audio brochure showing the typical stairstep image.

The problem is, the digital-to-analog converter doesn’t reproduce blocks. Instead, it defines an amplitude at a specific time point. A better representation of how analog waveforms are stored would be with each amplitude represented by an infinitely thin vertical line.

Digital Stairstep
Each sample represents a single voltage at a single point in time.

A better way to describe the function of a DAC is to state that each sample has a specific voltage at a particular point in time. The DAC has a low-pass filter on its output that ensures that the waveform flows smoothly to the next sample level. There are no steps or notches, ever.

Digital Bit Depth Experiment

Rather than ramble on about theory, let’s fire up Adobe Audition and do a real-world experiment to show the difference between 16- and 24-bit recordings. We’ll use the standard compact disc sampling rate of 44.1 kHz and a 1-kHz tone. I created a 24-bit track first and saved it to my computer. I then saved that file again with a bit depth of 16 bits to ensure that the timing between the two would be perfect.

Here’s what the waveform looks like. The little dots are the samples.

Digital Stairstep
A section of the 1-kHz waveform showing the samples as dots.

Now, I’ll load both files and subtract the 16-bit waveform from the 24-bit. The difference will show us the error caused by the difference in bit depth.

Digital Stairstep
The result of subtracting the 16-bit file from the 24-bit file.

At a glance, it appears the difference is invisible. Maybe it’s hard to see the difference between the two files. Let’s look at some data in a different format. Here’s the spectral response graph of the difference.

Digital Stairstep
Spectral analysis between a 16-bit and a 24-bit recording.

As you can see, the difference is noise at a level of -130 dB. This amplitude is WAY below the limits of any audio equipment and, as such, is inaudible.

Let’s make the comparison more dramatic, shall we? I’ve saved the 16-bit track again with a depth of 8 bits.

Digital Stairstep
The waveform created by subtracting an 8-bit version of the 24-bit 1-kHz audio track.

This time, we got a result. You can see some waviness in the difference. This makes sense, as an 8-bit file only has 256 possible amplitude levels, and a 1-volt waveform has a possible error of almost 2 millivolts. Let’s look at this in the spectral domain.

Digital Stairstep
The spectral content of our resulting 24-bit minus 8-bit test file.

Now we have something audible. Not only can we see the 1-kHz waveform in the difference file at an amplitude of -70 dB, but we can see harmonics of that frequency at 1-kHz spacings to the upper limits of the file.

High-Resolution Audio Sounds Better

What have we learned about digital audio storage? First, each sample is infinitely small in the time domain and represents a level rather than a block. Second, there is no audible difference between a 16-bit and a 24-bit audio file. Third, 8 bits aren’t enough to accurately capture an analog waveform. What’s our takeaway? If we see marketing material that contends that a recording format with more than 16 bits of depth dramatically improves audio quality, we know it’s hogwash.

Wait, what about hi-res audio? Doesn’t it sound better than conventional CD quality? The answer is often yes. The reason isn’t mathematical, though. Sampling rates above the CD standard of 44.1 kHz can capture more harmonic information. Is this audible? Unlikely. Does having more than 16 bits of depth help? We’ve proven it doesn’t. So, why do hi-res recordings often sound better than older CD-quality recordings? The equipment used in the studio to convert the analog waveform from a microphone is likely decades newer and adds less distortion to the signal. If the recording is genuinely intended to be high-resolution, the quality of the microphone itself is better. Those are HUGE in terms of quality and accuracy.

A second benefit of higher bit-depth audio files is less background noise. When multiple sound samples are combined in software like Pro Tools, the chances of the background noise combining to become an issue are dramatically reduced.

The next time you shop for a car radio, consider a unit that supports playback of hi-res audio files. They sound better and will improve your listening experience. A local specialty mobile enhancement retailer can help you pick a radio that suits your needs and is easy to use.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Picking the Best Motorcycle Speaker Upgrades

Best Motorcycle Speaker

When it comes to getting great sound on your Gold Wing, Harley-Davidson or BMW, the key is to pick the best motorcycle speakers you can afford. The speakers in any audio system are the only link between what you hear and the electronics that play your music. Even the best radio and amplifier in the world would sound mediocre with low-quality speakers. So let’s look at a few criteria for choosing motorcycle speaker upgrades.

Consider Power Handling

Speakers for motorcycle and powersports applications are likely to be played at high volume levels. This is because the audio system needs to overpower wind and exhaust noise while remaining clear. In the case of motorcycle speakers, power handling breaks down into two considerations: thermal capacity and excursion-limited capabilities.

The thermal capacity of a motorcycle speaker depends primarily on the diameter and length of the voice coil, along with any technologies included in the design to allow hot air to circulate. A speaker rated for a lot of power typically has a larger coil and winding. If someone proposes that a speaker with a 0.75-inch voice coil can handle 200 watts of power continuously, you should question the validity of the specification. A speaker with a 1.5-inch voice coil is usually good for about 100 to 120 watts of power.

A more important consideration for motorcycle applications is how far the woofer cone on the speakers can move. A specification called Xmax describes the height of the voice coil winding relative to the size of the magnetic gap. This value is a theoretical limit of the speaker’s linear operation. However, this value doesn’t consider suspension component limitations or non-linearities. When you try to play music with a lot of bass at high volume levels, the woofer can exceed its rated excursion limit and add large amounts of distortion to the audio it produces.

Many motorcycle speaker upgrades feature PA-style speakers that offer excellent efficiency. The problem with these speakers is that their excursion capability is often very limited. A conventional high-quality motorcycle speaker might have a woofer that can move 5 millimeters in each direction. A similarly sized PA speaker might only have 2 millimeters of excursion. If you try to play music with lots of bass and midbass information at high volume levels, the PA speaker will sound terrible. The technician designing, installing and configuring the sound system on your bike needs to apply a high-pass filter at 200 to 300 hertz to a high-efficiency speaker, then add a dedicated woofer or subwoofer to handle midbass frequencies.

Best Motorcycle Speaker
The XS 165 NEO speakers from Hertz are a high-efficiency design optimized for motorcycle and powersports applications.

Sound Quality and Frequency Response

Another consideration that ties directly into the previous discussion is sound quality. Who would want to pick a speaker that doesn’t offer a smooth and natural frequency response? I’ve been to shows and heard motorcycle audio systems from far away. In these scenarios, picking out bikes with high-quality speakers is easy. Quite simply, they sound good. The voices and instruments sound real, and there isn’t any emphasis or missing information.

When shopping for motorcycle speakers, take along your favorite song on a USB stick and listen to the speakers that the product specialist suggests. Have them crank the volume, then stand back from the display as far as you can. This will let you understand how the speaker behaves when pushed hard. If the midrange sounds unnatural, garbled or distorted, they are likely not the best choice for your bike. A truly well-engineered speaker won’t change clarity or balance as you increase the volume – it should just get louder.

Best Motorcycle Speaker
The CX6 speakers from ARC Audio are a coaxially mounted component set designed to offer excellent performance and clarity on motorcycles.

Motorcycle Speakers Must Handle Environmental Conditions

The last consideration for motorcycle speakers is that they will be exposed to myriad environmental conditions. When you’re out on your bike, your speakers are exposed directly to the UV rays from the sun. This exposure can cause plastics and rubber to break down quickly. Look at an old plastic lawn chair or the black trim on an older vehicle. They will be dry and often have a chalky appearance. Old car tires often show cracking, which signifies that the rubber has started to break down.

Best Motorcycle Speaker
Tires that show cracking are ready to be replaced as the rubber is no longer supple and pliable.

The speakers you choose for your motorcycle should be constructed with materials designed to resist UV damage. They shouldn’t fade or change colors. Look for speakers that include specific mention of UV-resistant designs. Ideally, the drivers should pass a UV exposure test to confirm that all materials will last.

The second environmental criterion for motorcycle speakers is weatherproofing. The last thing you want is for a speaker to be damaged if you get caught in the rain or splashed while out for a ride. A paper cone would be one of the worst choices for a motorcycle speaker unless it has a tough coating.

You’ll want to look at the speaker’s physical design to ensure that there’s no way for water to get into the motor assembly if it’s a coaxial driver. Coaxial speakers will need to have a flexible secondary joint around the tweeter post, ensuring that it remains watertight. Many companies are selling conventional car audio speakers as motorcycle-specific applications. Taking a few minutes to inspect the driver before making a purchase can save you a lot of headaches down the road.

Best Motorcycle Speaker
Rockford Fosgate tests its TMS65 speakers for UV exposure to confirm that the design can handle anything Mother Nature dishes out.

Quality Speaker Installation Helps Ensure Reliability

Though we will touch on this topic briefly, how the speakers you choose are integrated into your motorcycle’s audio system plays a significant role in their performance and longevity. Unlike a car, motorcycles experience more vibration, which can cause connections to come loose over time. All wiring should be secured so it can’t vibrate relative to an amplifier, speaker or radio. Connections should be a type that won’t harden and crack when exposed to prolonged vibration.

Your new speakers should be mounted securely using corrosion-resistant fasteners. Ideally, the speakers should use existing mounting locations. Please make sure the speakers you choose specify that they have a mounting-hole pattern explicitly designed for upgrading your specific motorcycle.

Picking the Best Motorcycle Speaker Upgrades

The above tips are a good starting point for picking the best-performing, most reliable speaker upgrades for your motorcycle. Another tip is to listen to systems installed on other bikes. Try to listen to the same music on each one and pick out which sounds the clearest and most accurate. When you’re ready, visit a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer that focuses on motorcycle upgrades and start your listening evaluations.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Motorcycle Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

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