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Headlight Bulb Upgrades: Part 3: Beam Patterns

Beam Pattern

We are back with the third article in our series about headlight bulb upgrades. In the first article, we discussed the many different headlight bulb designs and how they’ve advanced over the last century. The second article in the series explained the terminology used when discussing light sources. How a light assembly projects light onto the road is more important than the choice of the headlight bulb. If it’s aimed in the wrong direction or with emphasis in the wrong area, you won’t be able to see where you are going. Worse, less-than-ideal light distribution may endanger oncoming drivers. In this third article, let’s review headlight beam patterns.

What Is a Headlight Beam Pattern?

Let’s define the term beam pattern. When you shine a light on a surface, it produces a shape. If the light is a point source like a candle, the light is distributed evenly from the source in the form of a sphere. Bringing the candle up close to a surface will result in a round shape that is brightest, where the light source is closest to the surface. The illumination level decreases as the distance between the surface and the light source increases. Out of a headlight assembly, a halogen or HID headlight bulb effectively acts like a point-source light source.

Beam Pattern
The illumination pattern of a candle held near a wall.

The results differ if we have a directional light source, like a flashlight. The beam pattern would be a circle on the wall with a sharp cutoff at the edges. The light emanates from the flashlight in the shape of a cone.

Beam Pattern
The beam pattern created when we point a flashlight at a wall.

Automotive headlamp assemblies are similar to a flashlight. They use a reflector to point the light forward from the front of the vehicle. As forward lighting became brighter, the importance of not blinding oncoming drivers increased. By definition, glare is a harsh, uncomfortably bright light. In the context of our discussion about automotive lighting, glare refers to being subjected to unwanted bright light, typically from another vehicle. An oncoming vehicle’s improperly adjusted lighting system is an excellent example of unwanted glare.

Glare is hazardous as it causes the iris in your eyes to narrow and let in less light. After a vehicle passes you, it takes some time for your iris to open again, making it very difficult to see. Likewise, the bright oncoming light source will drown out darker objects in your peripheral vision. Many advanced driver training courses will suggest that a driver close one eye as a vehicle approaches at night, then open it when the vehicle passes. This process leaves you with one eye ready to see in the dark while the other readjusts. If you’ve seen the movie “Jack Reacher” with Tom Cruise and Robert Duvall, the scene just before the shootout at the mine begins is an example of this technique.

Beam Pattern
If you’ve had to pass a police car at night, their emergency lighting system can be so bright that it’s challenging to see the road.

Modern Automotive Headlight Design

Look at the beam pattern when you drive your car up to a wall or garage door. You’ll quickly realize engineers designed the light to illuminate the road in front of your vehicle without blinding oncoming drivers. What you see will look very different from the flashlight image earlier in this article. Most projector-style headlights have a metal shield between the lens and the reflector that blocks some of the light output. This shield produces a sharp cutoff at the top of the light beam pattern.

Beam Pattern
A close-up of the cutoff shield in a modern projector-style headlight assembly. Image: jlwranglerforums.com user AnnDee444

It’s logical to think that you could use a simple light that’s aimed lower and avoid all the fancy beam-shaping reflectors and shields. The problem with this configuration is that it puts the brightest part of the light, a location called the hot spot, much closer to your vehicle. You don’t want or need much light in the 20 to 60 feet immediately in front of your car or truck. You want most of the light from your headlights focused beyond 300 feet. This configuration will help provide even lighting in front of the vehicle, especially where the cutoff stops illuminating the road.

Beam Pattern
An example of a good headlight beam pattern with a defined cutoff and hot spot.

Driving Beams and High Beams

So far, we’ve only discussed regular low-beam or driving-beam lighting. Switching on your high beams is quite different. The high beams on your vehicle are nearly identical to a flashlight. They project a cone of light that allows you to see much farther down the road. They typically don’t have a cutoff of any kind.

Modern vehicles typically have three different designs for high-beam lighting. Some use secondary light assemblies with dedicated bulbs. Others use a light bulb with two separate filaments. Finally, many projector-style lights have a cutoff that moves out of the way when the high beams are activated. The shield is driven by a small solenoid when the high beams are activated.

Beam Pattern
This BMW has separate light assemblies for regular and high beams.
Beam Pattern
This GMC Sierra pickup truck uses a projector headlight assembly with a moving shutter to switch between low- and high-beam modes.
Beam Pattern
This 9003-style headlight bulb from Sylvania has separate low and high beam filaments.

Analyzing Beam Patterns

We set up a projector assembly from a headlight and loaded three different bulbs into it. We took photos of each bulb to compare the beam patterns and light output. We started with a halogen bulb, switched to HID, and finally to two LED bulbs.

Beam Pattern
The beam pattern picture with an H11 halogen headlight bulb.
Beam Pattern
The beam pattern with a Lumens H11 HID headlight bulb.
Beam Pattern
The beam pattern with a Lumens ATOM LED bulb.
Beam Pattern
The beam pattern with a Lumens Sportline LED bulb.

As a reminder, we’re analyzing beam patterns and not brightness. That said, in our analysis we must consider where the light energy is the brightest.

All images were taken with a Canon 70D camera using an EF-S 10-22mm F/3.5-4.5 USM lens set to its narrowest 22-mm setting. Exposure was 1/80 of a second with an f-stop of 8 and the camera ISO set to 100. No brightness adjustments were made in post-processing, only cropping.

Starting with the halogen bulb, we can see a very bright hot spot in the middle, just to the right of the cutoff. This brightness pattern works well in illuminating objects several hundred feet ahead of the vehicle. The light output to the sides of the hot spot is reasonable. This lateral lighting would help illuminate objects on the sides of the road or as you’re turning a corner. Light output decreases quickly at the bottom of the pattern. This foreground performance helps prevent a bright spot immediately in front of the vehicle.

Moving to the HID bulb, we see a larger diameter hot spot in the middle of the image. This light distribution pattern isn’t as ideal as the halogen bulb. The horizontal performance with the HID is good. You can see some slight unwanted reflections above the cutoff, but they aren’t bad. Finally, the foreground performance looks to be similar to that of the halogen.

Next, we have the ATOM LED bulb in this projector application. This bulb has less of a hot spot, so the light distribution appears relatively even through the illuminated area. One benefit is this LED bulb is that the cutoff is very abrupt. There is little to no light above the cutoff so that oncoming drivers won’t experience as much glare.

Finally, we have the Lumens Sportline bulb. This bulb has a large hot spot in the middle and maintains the sharp cutoff of the ATOM bulb. This bulb puts much more light on the road than the ATOM but is a bit bright in the foreground.

The halogen and HID bulbs significantly outperform the LED bulbs in this application. Keep in mind that this is a specific projector assembly. Further, our research shows that it’s not the highest-quality design available. A differently shaped projector or a reflector-style lighting assembly would likely produce very different results. The takeaway is that your installer needs to experiment with different options to ensure that you get a genuine upgrade for your light bulb investment, not just a different color bulb.

Dangerous Beam Patterns

It’s often difficult to know what to look for in a beam pattern without knowing when something is wrong. Here are some random examples of undesirable headlight beam patterns we found online.

Beam Pattern
Poor light distribution from a BMW 330i. Image: e46fanatics.com user HacksawMark

A quick analysis of the above image shows several issues with the left-side headlight of this BMW 330i. There is a dark spot in the middle of the pattern. The lack of light in the center would dramatically reduce long-distance visibility. There is also too much light at the very bottom of the pattern. Too much light down low illuminates the area immediately in front of the vehicle too much. The result is another reduction in long-distance visibility. The left headlight is also aimed higher than the right. Improper aiming results in blinding oncoming drivers or poor long-distance visibility.

Beam Pattern
An example of a terrible headlight beam pattern. Image: Subaruoutback.org user Wagon_Driver

Based on a quick analysis of the above image, someone has likely installed incorrect bulbs in this Subaru Outback or clocked them incorrectly. There is a poor cutoff, minimal lateral light distribution and far too much light in the foreground. Given the distance to the garage door, we’d also predict that the right-side headlight is aimed much too far to the left. Driving with a lighting system that performs like this could be very dangerous.

Beam Pattern
Improperly aimed headlights. Image: clublexus.com user drmull2

Though the actual light pattern from this 2014 Lexus ES isn’t bad, the headlights need proper aiming. The right headlight is probably aimed too high. The rectangles above the cutoff are intentional and illuminate street signs.

North American and European Lighting Standards

The guidelines for automotive headlights differ significantly between Europe and North America. If you look at the light patterns we’ve shown, there is a clear step in the middle of the pattern. The left side is lower than the right. This pattern provides better road illumination in the front of the vehicle with less chance of blinding an oncoming car or truck. In Europe, rather than a step, the cutoff is at an angle that extends to the edge of the assembly. This pattern illuminates more of the road and increases light to the right-side shoulder. This design would work better to light up road signs.

Beam Pattern
North America and Europe have different automotive headlight cutoff pattern standards.

Proper Forward Lighting Is Crucial to Safe Night Driving

If you’ve changed or upgraded your headlights or are planning to, this article explains the importance of choosing headlight bulbs or light assemblies that work correctly. A high-output bulb in an incorrect application can drastically reduce how well you can see. Work with a specialty mobile enhancement retailer to pick only the best solutions for your application. Improving nighttime visibility may require testing different bulb options in your vehicle. We’ll discuss light color and brightness in our next article.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Lighting, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Car Audio Myth: Larger or More Subwoofers Are Always Louder

More Subwoofers

There’s a common belief that an audio system with more subwoofers will produce more bass. This statement can be 100% true or completely false. Why might it be false? A subwoofer’s output depends heavily on enclosure design. Let’s look at two examples where the output of one subwoofer is more than two.

The Most Bass for Your Dollar

If you spend any time searching the countless car audio groups on Facebook, you’ll see dozens of photos of under-seat subwoofer enclosures for pickup trucks. Many of these enclosures have three or four subwoofers in them. If they are 8-inch subwoofers, this might work well. If they are 10-inch subwoofers, they’re likely somewhat cramped for space.

When we’re talking about subwoofer systems, the size of the enclosure relative to the parameters of the subwoofer itself determines performance. You could have a shop build a cube that measures 12 by 12 by 12 inches and mount a 10-inch subwoofer on all six sides. It would look cool, but it would likely sound terrible!

How much bass a subwoofer produces depends on how far the cone moves forward or rearward for a given amount of power. Professionals use enclosure simulation software like BassBox Pro or Term-Pro to model how a subwoofer will behave in different enclosure designs. These software packages can simulate acoustic suspension (sealed), bass reflex (vented) and various bandpass enclosure designs.

More Subwoofers
Professionals use simulation software like BassBox Pro to make educated decisions about proper subwoofer enclosure designs.

Someone with experience needs to analyze and interpret the information provided by the software simulations to determine whether the design is suitable and safe for the subwoofer with the chosen amplifier. These software packages, on their own, don’t calculate the perfect enclosure for any application. They’re like a spreadsheet: They work with the electromechanical parameters of the subwoofer and the provided enclosure information.

Let’s talk about acoustic suspension enclosures, which are the simplest to understand and predict. When a subwoofer is installed in an acoustic suspension enclosure, the compliance of the air in the enclosure combines with the compliance of the driver’s suspension to form a spring system. Compliance is the reciprocal of stiffness. Or, put another way, a rubber band is more compliant than a pencil. A large amount of air is very compliant, and a small amount of air isn’t when we’re talking about compressing it. More specific to subwoofer enclosure simulations, it’s easier to compress the air in a large enclosure than in a small one.

More Subwoofers
Companies like Atrend offer sealed enclosures in several sizes.

When a subwoofer is installed in a very small enclosure, the resulting system is not very compliant. It will take significant power to move the subwoofer cone at low frequencies. Why does the enclosure size have a more significant effect at low frequencies? For each decrease of one octave, a subwoofer cone has to move twice as far to produce the same output. For example, if a subwoofer moves back and forth 2 millimeters to produce a specific output at 60 Hz, it has to move 4 millimeters to produce that same output at 30 Hz. If the speaker is in an enclosure that limits how easily the cone moves, it will produce less output for a given power input.

Since we aren’t installing subwoofers for midbass, installing any subwoofer or woofer in a small enclosure means limiting how much bass the system produces. This low-frequency limiting is one of the reasons we use enclosures. Without an enclosure, the subwoofer would bottom out when driven with moderate power.

More Subwoofers
A subwoofer would exceed its rated excursion limits at low frequencies without an enclosure.

The graph below shows the predicted frequency response of the ARC Audio X2 10D4v2 subwoofer we reviewed recently in three different enclosures. The red trace represents a sealed enclosure with a net internal air volume of 0.663 cubic foot. The yellow trace shows the predicted response of the subwoofer in an enclosure with only 0.45 cubic foot of space. Finally, the green trace is the response with the subwoofer in an enclosure with 1.0 cubic foot of space.

More Subwoofers
Frequency response simulations of an ARC Audio 10-inch ARC Audio X2 v2 subwoofer in different enclosures.

As you can see, the ARC Audio subwoofer produces more bass from a larger enclosure for a given amount of power. This is true of all subwoofers. When driven with 200 watts of power, the 1.0-cubic-foot enclosure would produce 98.9 dB SPL output (in a free-field measurement) at 30 hertz. The 0.663-cubic-foot enclosure produces 97.6 dB of output at the same frequency. Finally, the 0.45-cubic-foot enclosure produces 95.2 dB of output at 30 Hz.

Let’s look at this data from another perspective. Consider how much more power it would take for the smaller enclosures to play as loudly as the larger designs. We will reference 200 watts of power into the 1.0-cubic-foot enclosure. The 0.663-cubic-foot enclosure would need 272 watts of power at 30 hertz to produce the same output. The 0.45-cubic-foot enclosure needs a whopping 469 watts to match the 30-hertz output of the large enclosure. Think about how much hotter the sub would get and how much harder the amplifier and vehicle alternator would have to work to produce the same output.

More Subwoofers

 

What if we look at this from the opposite perspective? If we provide the ARC Audio subwoofer with 200 watts of power in the small 0.45-cubic-foot enclosure and it produces 95.2 dB of output, how much less energy would be needed to match that output from the larger enclosures? The answer is that the 0.663-cubic-foot enclosure is just as loud with only 148.4 watts of power, and the 1.0-cubic-foot enclosure would only need 85.5 watts to produce 95.2 dB of output. As you can see, cramming a subwoofer into a small enclosure is counterproductive in terms of efficiency.

More Subwoofers

Are More Subwoofers Always Louder?

Now let’s talk about multiple subwoofers and whether or not they are always louder. Most car audio enthusiasts think adding a second subwoofer increases the output of a system by 6 dB SPL. This statement is true under a specific set of conditions. Let’s say we have a single subwoofer in a 0.663-cubic-foot enclosure, and a 200-watt amplifier powers it. If we want to use two subwoofers, each driver needs 0.663 cubic foot of airspace. We also need an amplifier that can provide a total of 400 watts. If we meet these conditions, the system’s maximum output will increase by 6 dB SPL. If we have double the airspace but only 200 watts to share between the drivers, the output increases by 3 dB SPL.

The graph below shows a single X2 subwoofer in 0.664 cubic foot of space in red and a pair of those subwoofers in 1.326 cubic feet in teal. The total power is 200 watts for each simulation.

More Subwoofers
One ARC Audio subwoofer in 0.664 cubic foot versus two subwoofers in 1.326 cubic feet.

What happens if we ask our installer to cram both subwoofers into a 0.664-cubic-foot enclosure?

More Subwoofers
The violet trace shows the predicted output of two subwoofers sharing the 0.663-cubic-foot enclosure space.

The graph above shows that the subwoofer system produces less bass with two drivers sharing the 0.663-cubic-foot enclosure and 200 watts (total) than with a single driver (in red). Proper subwoofer enclosure design is crucial to maximizing car audio system efficiency. If we doubled the power when adding the second sub, it would be louder, but maybe only by 2 to 2.5 dB.

Ported Subwoofer Enclosure Solutions Add Efficiency

What if you want the most bass output for our investment? What enclosure should you use? The answer depends on how much space you have in the vehicle. Let’s say we have room for two subwoofers in an acoustic suspension enclosure with a net volume of 1.324 cubic feet. This is a large enough enclosure to ensure that the drivers play loudly at low frequencies, right? Sure, but is this the most efficient use of our money? Guess what? No, it isn’t.

If you have the shop you’re working with design and construct a vented enclosure using the 1.324 cubic feet of space and a single subwoofer, the system will produce significantly more bass. Two drivers in an acoustic suspension enclosure with a volume of 1.324 cubic feet, sharing 200 watts, will produce 102.9 dB SPL at 35 hertz. A single driver in a 1.324-cubic-foot bass reflex enclosure would deliver a mind-blowing 107.8 dB of output at the same frequency. That’s 4.9 dB more output. Your sealed enclosure would need 618 watts of power to reach the same output level. Chances are, the subwoofers wouldn’t appreciate receiving that much power.

More Subwoofers
The predicted frequency response of a single ARC Audio X2 v2 10 in a bass reflex enclosure, in violet, versus two drivers in the same airspace sealed, in red.

Does Adding More Subwoofers Make My Car Audio System Play Louder?

So, let’s answer the question, “Does adding more subwoofers make my car audio system play louder?” The answer is yes if your enclosure design has double the air volume every time you double the number of subwoofers. Your system will play 6 dB SPL louder every time you double the number of drivers in this scenario.

Unless the enclosure was grossly oversized, adding more subwoofers to a given volume is unlikely to increase low-frequency output. This is why it’s crucial for the shop you’re dealing with to model the enclosure options so that you get the most bass for your investment. In most cases, especially for an under-seat truck enclosure, a single driver in a bass reflex (vented) enclosure produces significantly more low-frequency energy than two, three or even four drivers in an acoustic suspension design. Drop by a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer today and talk with them about your goals for your subwoofer system upgrade. If they know how to optimize enclosure designs with simulation software, the chances are that you’ll get the best bang for your buck, bass-wise!

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Revisiting Sealed Subwoofer Enclosure Stuffing with SPL Measurements

Sealed Enclosure

A while back, we looked at how adding stuffing to a sealed enclosure affects its performance. It was clear from our measurements that the addition of Dacron lowered the system’s Qtc (Total Q). The original theory was that adding stuffing made the enclosure seem larger and let the driver play louder at low frequencies. Let’s revisit this test and add several acoustic measurements to quantify any changes in efficiency and output.

Results from Our Original Testing

Our original article determined that adding different amounts of stuffing to our 1.358-cubic-foot enclosure lowered the system Qtc. Without stuffing, the Qtc with our audiophile-grade 12-inch subwoofer was 0.9532. That’s a bit high for our liking but offers good efficiency. With 0.25 pound of Dacron added to the enclosure, the Qtc dropped to 0.9148. That’s still on the high side but getting better.

Moving up to a half-pound of stuffing had minimal effect on the driver, and the system stayed roughly the same at 0.919. Cramming another quarter-pound of stuffing into the enclosure made a truly beneficial change. The Qtc was now down at 0.8397. The lower Qtc measurement is better as it results in less resonance and a tighter, more controlled bass perception. In this capacity, stuffing with Dacron does have the same effect as installing the subwoofer in a larger enclosure.

The driver’s resonant frequency in the enclosure barely changed throughout the test. Empty, the system had an F3 of 43.35 hertz. With all the stuffing in place (0.75 pound), the resonant frequency dropped to 41.68 hertz. The difference would be negligible and doesn’t support the claims of stuffed enclosures playing lower.

Sealed Enclosure
The results from our original article on adding stuffing to a sealed subwoofer enclosure.

Round Two of Subwoofer Enclosure Testing

In this test, we’ll use the same enclosure and subwoofer and take several acoustic measurements under strictly controlled conditions. We’ve set the enclosure up in the middle of our lab and placed the Clio Pocket calibrated mic on the floor 50 centimeters in front of the enclosure. This configuration is similar to a typical ground-plane measurement, except the closer proximity to the enclosure will help to reduce the effect the room has on the measurements. A “normal” ground-plane measurement would have the microphone 2 meters from the enclosure. We will continue buying lottery tickets in hopes of financing our own anechoic chamber, but that might take a while!

All measurements are at the same output level. We’ll use 4 volts representing 2 watts of power into the subwoofer’s nominal 4-ohm load. With a drive level any lower than this, the background noise from the HVAC system starts to mess with the very low frequency measurements. Again – anechoic chamber, please!

Sealed Enclosure Stuffing Findings

If you look at the graph below, you’ll see the SPL measurements from the four test conditions. The red trace is the enclosure without any stuffing. The violet trace represents 0.25 pound of stuffing. The black trace represents a half-pound of filling. Finally, the amber trace is 0.75 pound.

As expected, the more stuffing there is, the smaller the bump at the top of the response curve. Why does this happen? Because polyester fiberfill reduces the resonance of the system. With less resonance, the driver returns to rest faster after the signal stops, and less distortion is added to the output.

Sealed Enclosure
Measurements of a sealed subwoofer enclosure with four different amounts of Dacron stuffing.

You’ll notice the difference between no stuffing and the tightly packed enclosure is relatively tiny. Indeed, the maximum difference is a total of 1.4 dB SPL, with the unstuffed enclosure being louder.

I generated a second graph referencing the first three measurements to the fully stuffed measurement. This analysis shows you how much louder the subwoofer is as there is less and less stuffing. While it might be noticeable, the difference is minute.

Sealed Enclosure
Some quick math to show you the difference between enclosure stuffing levels.

Sealed Enclosure Stuffing Summary

Unlike what many “old timers” will tell you, adding a large amount of Dacron (or similar) stuffing doesn’t significantly affect output, especially at lower frequencies. It certainly doesn’t cause the same improvement of the low-frequency production that you’d get from a larger enclosure. One consideration, though: If the crossover point for our subwoofer systems is, or should be, around 80 Hz, then a system with a flatter response will seem to be a bit louder at lower frequencies. With that said, we are talking about less than 1.5 dB SPL, so the whole thing regarding output amplitude is effectively irrelevant.

So, is it worth asking the shop building your sealed subwoofer enclosure to add stuffing? Don’t add anything if you’re a bass head and want the system to play as loudly as possible. If you’re into sound quality and want to reduce distortion around the resonant frequency of the subwoofer system a bit, then go for it. It’s not like the cost of some stuffing is significant.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Automotive Headlight Upgrades – Part 2: Terminology

Light Terminology

We talked about headlight bulb styles in the first part of our series on understanding headlight upgrades. In this article, we will briefly explain relevant light terminology to help you understand what lumens, lux, candela and watts mean. Knowing what these terms mean will help you make better bulb upgrade choices – and you’ll be less likely to be fooled by bogus light output claims.

The Importance of Proper Headlights

The forward lighting system on your car or truck is, or at least should be, designed to light up the road in front of your vehicle. The lighting should be bright enough to allow you to see and react to objects in your path safely. If your car needs two seconds to stop from 40 miles per hour, then your lights need to illuminate objects at least 117 feet in front of your vehicle.

Light Terminology
Rally racers add extra lights to their race cars to see better at night. Image: FIA World Rally Championship

The Candela

Long ago, a light source’s output was comparable to the light produced by a typical wax candle. A conventional wax candle produces 1 candela (symbol: cd) of light. It’s crucial to understand that this is the total light output of the light source in all directions. Put another way, no matter what direction you’re looking at a candle from, it produces 1 candela or 1 cd.

Light Terminology – Lumens

A lumen (symbol: lm) is the most commonly used descriptor of how much light a bulb produces. The lumen is the SI unit used to quantify luminous flux. Sadly, it’s also easy for this number to be irrelevant in describing how well you can see in front of you at night.

We have to detour a moment to make a super-technical definition. The term steradian, or square radian, describes a circular area on the surface of a sphere. A sphere (or ball) has a surface area of 4π steradians – or 12.5664 steradians. Expressed another way, 1 steradian is 1/12.5664 of the surface of a sphere. If you have a sphere with a radius of 2 meters, then 1 steradian represents 4 square meters on the surface of that sphere. It should be no surprise, then, that the total surface area of the sphere is 50.265 square meters and that 1/12.5664 of that is 4 square meters.

Light Terminology
A graphical representation of 1 steradian. By Andy Anderson – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=84111964

OK, now back to the lumen. One lumen equals 1 steradian of a sphere illuminated by a light source that outputs 1 candela. Think of this description as that of a flashlight pointing at the inside of a sphere. If the flashlight produces 1 candela of output and all the light is focused onto an area the size of 1 steradian, the result is 1 lumen of illumination.

If we back up and consider the light source to be isotropic or equal in output in all directions, then the light source must produce 12.5664 candelas to produce 1 lumen of flux over an area of 1 steradian. In theory, you need about 12 and a half candles to produce 1 lumen of luminous flux on an area of 1 steradian of a sphere with a radius of 1 meter. A 1-candela light source would produce 1/12.5664 of a lumen on the same area, or 0.0796 lumen.

When professional light bulb manufacturers measure a light source’s output, they use an integrating sphere. The inside of the sphere has a pure white reflective coating. The goal of the sphere is to average out any bright or dim spots to create an even distribution of light through the assembly. A calibrated electronic sensor measures the light level in the sphere to calculate the total light provided by the light source.

Light Terminology
A light-integrating sphere accurately measures the output of light sources. Image: Pro-Lite Technology Ltd.

When a company like Cree or Samsung creates an LED, they describe the output of the LED COB in lumens, or more accurately, lumens per watt (LPW). A high-quality LED COB produces about 133 lumens of output per watt. Most high-power LED COBs have a maximum power handling of about 3 watts. This efficiency means a 1-watt single LED COB can produce about 400 lumens. An aftermarket LED headlight bulb that uses one of these LED COBs on each side would produce 800 lumens. Compact assemblies with three or four COBs assembled into a single housing are available. These 12-watt LED COBs produce about 1,500 lumens. If a 12-watt COB is on each side of the bulb, it would theoretically produce 3,000 lumens.

Light Terminology
The ATOM bulbs from Lumens High Performance Lighting are rated to produce 3,000 lumens of “total raw light output.”

Light Terminology – Lux

Unfortunately, having an incredibly bright light bulb doesn’t directly correlate to proper road lighting. Understanding lighting terminology is crucial. The plastic lens on the front of the light assembly blocks a small amount of light. The design of the reflector at the back of the light assembly plays a considerable role in determining where that light projects. In a worst-case example, you could have a 3,000-lumen headlight bulb in a black box, and no light would be visible and, as such, the bulb would produce 0 lux.

Lux (symbol: lx) is the SI unit of luminous flux per unit area. The lux is the unit that quantifies light intensity as the human eye perceives it. Thankfully, unlike the whole steradian thing (sorry about that), the lux uses an area of 1 square meter. One lux equals the illumination of 1 lumen of light over 1 square meter. If all the light from a 100-lumen light source illuminates 1 square meter, the light intensity would be 100 lux.

Light Terminology

How do all these numbers relate to headlight bulb ratings and how well you can see the road once the sun sets? With modern LED headlights like you’d find on an Audi, Mercedes-Benz or Genesis, the optics are designed to work specifically with the LED COBs light emission pattern. Every aspect of the light source is optimized to produce a specific beam pattern on the road. If you upgrade your headlights from a halogen bulb, HID or LED aftermarket bulbs must work with the existing reflectors and lens. The upper cut-off for the low beams must be accurate, and the light distribution pattern needs to remain the same. These criteria are crucial for your safety and the safety of those you share the road with.

Light Terminology
The Genesis G70 sedan features LED headlights. Image: Genesis.com

Companies such as Rigid Industries and Baja Designs that manufacture aftermarket off-road and work light solutions provide light output levels in lux. Both companies describe the distance from the light where they produce a fixed illumination level. Of course, the two companies don’t use the same descriptions, so you have to do some “figurin’” to determine which is best for your application.

Light Terminology
Extreme Audio near Richmond, Virginia, upgraded this Mercedes-Benz Sprinter with a Baja Designs LP6 PRO amber light pod set.

Watts, Power and Light Output

The SI unit watt describes the work done over a fixed time – usually one second. One amp of current flowing through 1 ohm of resistance in electrical circuits produces 1 watt of heat energy. To calculate watts in direct current (DC) circuits, you can multiply the voltage times the current. If you apply 12 volts to a light bulb and 2 amps of current flow through the circuit, then the work done is 24 watts.

When all we had were halogen bulbs, a bulb that drew more energy would typically produce more light. The low beams on most cars and trucks used 35-watt bulbs, and many used 55-watt bulbs for the high beams. Unfortunately, those numbers don’t correspond to light output regarding HID and LED replacement bulbs. A 15-watt LED bulb produces significantly more light than a 35-watt halogen bulb. Many HID kits were marketed with 35- or 55-watt ratings, making three or four times as much light as halogen units. The bottom line is that looking at HID or LED headlight upgrades and comparing them by the energy they consume won’t be effective.

Light Terminology
Morimoto Elite HID kits are available in 35- or 50-watt configurations. Image: The Retrofit Source.

Research Your Headlight Upgrades

A forward lighting system that functions accurately and reliably is the top vehicle safety consideration once the sun sets. If your headlight bulbs are worn out, the lenses are foggy, or the lights aren’t aimed properly, your risk of getting into an accident increases dramatically. Now that you understand automotive headlight terminology better, you can make better purchasing decisions. Drop by a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer today to find out about the upgrades they have available to improve the lighting system on your vehicle.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Lighting, RESOURCE LIBRARY

How Do I Know if My Car Audio DSP Is Adjusted Properly?

DSP Adjustment

It should go without saying that a car stereo system designed around multiple amplifier channels and a DSP is the easiest way to get great sound in your vehicle. The technician working on your vehicle has complete control over the output level, sound arrival time and the frequency response of each speaker in the system. The result should be a sound system that is as optimized as possible – assuming the calibration process is executed properly. There are still many misunderstandings about what a DSP can and can’t do. This article will provide a few things to listen for to help you determine whether your DSP has been adjusted properly.

What Is a DSP?

What is a digital signal processor? Though we have covered the topic extensively, we’ll offer a quick “too long; didn’t read” for those new to our magazine. A DSP is a computer chip optimized to perform many calculations quickly and repeatedly on a sequence of digital samples. These samples are typically a digital representation of an analog signal. In the case of our car audio systems, the analog signals are the left and right channels of the audio recording. DSPs are common in other applications, including video processing and radio frequency transmission analysis. Modern recording studios and live venues use DSP-based mixing consoles.

DSP Adjustment
Escort’s M14 radar receiver uses an Analog Devices Blackfin DSP to pick out police radar signals and reject noise.
DSP Adjustment
The Vista One Carbon is a high-end DSP-based mixing console ideal for live, broadcast and studio applications.

How Is a DSP Used in Car Audio Systems?

In car audio applications, a DSP serves many purposes. A DSP can combine signals from multiple sources, adjust levels, apply equalization and frequency filtering, and add delay to a signal. In short, it helps the technician connect to a factory-installed stereo, optimize the signal to each speaker and compensate for your vehicle’s acoustics.

If your car stereo uses an aftermarket head unit, your installer will likely connect a DSP directly to the radio’s preamp outputs using RCA cables. Suppose you have a vehicle that uses a digital interface between a factory-installed head unit and an amplifier like A2B, MOST, AVB or a SP/DIF connection. In that case, you may have an interface that feeds a digital signal to your DSP over a fiber-optic cable. Finally, many audio system upgrades require recombining signals from multiple factory-installed amplifier channels and removing any processing to create a full-bandwidth signal. A high-quality DSP can help with this.

After the audio signal is in the DSP, the first order of business is to route that signal to the appropriate output channels. You don’t want the left-channel signal from the radio going to the right-side tweeter. Also, you’ll likely want the signals from both the left and right channels going to the subwoofer signal. All reputable DSPs have a signal-routing mixer to perform these tasks.

Next, the technician configuring the system must filter the signals to each speaker. You don’t want bass information going to a tweeter or midrange information to a subwoofer. A properly trained technician knows which high- and low-pass crossovers to apply to the speakers in your vehicle based on their design, directivity characteristics and the speakers that are operating in adjacent frequency ranges.

The last step is for the technician to use a calibrated microphone system and measure each speaker’s acoustic output at the listening position. Using that information, they can adjust the equalizer to smooth out any peaks or dips caused by reflections in the vehicle. Finally, the output level of each speaker is adjusted to ensure that the transition from one driver to another is smooth.

DSP Adjustment
The Audison bit-Tune is an acoustic real-time audio analyzer that uses a microphone array to capture accurate information.

Auditioning Overall Tonal Balance

While a DSP often seems like some mystical black box of audio voodoo, they are quite simple devices. Yet they do have an extensive list of functions and require training and a thorough understanding of the laws of physics to implement properly. A DSP is effectively mandatory if your goal is realism and accuracy from a car audio upgrade. That brings us to the question, how would a consumer know whether the DSP in their car or truck is adjusted properly?

The first thing to listen for is a smooth frequency response. There shouldn’t be emphasis or deficiencies in any frequency range. For example, if the letters S and T seem overly prominent, the equalizer bands around 3 and 5 kHz might need adjustment. If voices are boomy or chesty, there might be too much output around 200 Hz. The bottom line is that if every genre of music doesn’t sound right, then the DSP needs more adjustment.

An idea offered by long-time car audio competitor Harry Kimura is to listen to a well-engineered piano recording. The lowest note on a piano has a fundamental frequency of 27.5 hertz. That’s well below what an audio system without a subwoofer can reproduce with any authority. The highest note has a fundamental frequency of 4.186 kHz. It’s crucial to remember that each note includes several octaves’ worth of harmonics to give the instrument its “sound.” There’s still important audio information beyond 12 kHz from this 4.186 kHz note. If someone plays a scale from the highest to the lowest notes, each should be reproduced by your car audio system with the same volume or intensity. If something is too loud or quiet, the DSP’s equalizer needs adjustment.

DSP Adjustment
The Rockford Fosgate DSR1 DSP has eight output channels and includes an iDatalink Maestro AR interface.
DSP Adjustment
The bit Nove DSP from Audison includes six analog inputs, two digital inputs and nine outputs for extremely flexible audio system design.
DSP Adjustment
The compact ARC Audio PSM-Pro DSP includes audio processing features typically found only on high-end models.

What about the Bass?

We can confidently tell you that a car audio system that plays the bottom two octaves of a piano at the same level as middle C won’t be much fun on the road. It might be super-accurate, but the bass will be drowned out when competing with wind, road and exhaust noise. The subwoofer in your car audio system should be 8 to 12 dB louder than the midrange for the system to be enjoyable while in motion. If you’re a basshead, fill your boots!

The Source of Sound

The second criterion to listen for is staging and imaging. Imaging refers to the ability of an audio system to render the sound of specific instruments accurately on a virtual soundstage. Think of yourself listening to a live acoustic music performance. A four-piece jazz band with a drummer, pianist, upright bass player and lead singer would be a perfect example. No matter where you sit in the audience, the sound source from their instruments is easy to detect. You’d know if the lead singer walked across the stage while performing, even if you didn’t see them.

In your car audio system, you should be able to pick out the specific instruments in a well-recorded track. If the singer and drummer were in the center of the stage, they should sound like they are in the center of the dash or windshield. If the bassist is on the left, then the sound should come from in front of the steering wheel. If the piano was on the right side of the stage, it should sound like it’s coming from the airbag on the right side of the dash.

Here’s a good example of what you should hear if the system has a solid soundstage and good imaging. “Listen to Money for Nothing” by Dire Straits. At 1:12 into the track, Pick Withers’ drums pan from the far right to the center. Each drum appears to have a dedicated microphone, and their signals are panned to fill the soundstage. As he hits different drums, the sound source should move. The system isn’t configured correctly if the drums are a big blurry mess.

DSP Adjustment
Dire Straits’ Brothers in Arms album is a popular choice for auditioning high-end audio systems because of its excellent recording quality.

How Do You Want Your System to Sound?

The above description assumes you wanted your car audio system calibrated as though you were in the audience. The other option is to have the system configured as though you were on stage with the performance. In this scenario, the sound in your car would be more like what you’d hear when wearing headphones. The vocals and drums might be in the middle of your head. The bassist would be to your left, and the piano to the right. Some call this a “club” sound, where music comes from around you. The product specialist you’re working with to design your mobile audio system should ask you about your listening preferences during the client qualification process.

A car audio system with high-quality amplifiers and an excellent DSP will offer better focus for each instrument. We call this better imaging. We’ve heard many factory-installed audio systems where the center-stage vocals came from a space the size of a large pizza. The best aftermarket systems we’ve listened to reproduced that same track from a point in space the size of a tennis ball. It’s not just equipment that achieves this goal. The technician adjusting the DSP needs to know what to look for and what to ignore in the acoustic measurements to get this right.

DSP Adjustment
In the audience or on the stage – the shop installing your DSP must ask how you want the system configured. Image: mcmillanpazdansmith.com

What Can’t a DSP Fix?

There are some product and installation issues that a DSP can’t resolve. If you’ve chosen speakers with resonance and distortion issues, the DSP can’t remove that harmonic information added to your music. If you find the high-frequency response harsh or fatiguing, you are probably hearing harmonic distortion from your speakers. The only solution is to switch to better-designed speakers that include distortion-reducing designs and technologies.

The same goes for sloppy midbass. If a rim hit on a tom drum sounds like a thud or bump rather than a sharp crack, you may have a speaker or amplifier distortion problem. Audio components (primarily amplifiers and speakers) with high levels of intermodulation distortion typically cause muddiness or unwanted warmth in the lower midrange frequency range. No amount of DSP adjustment can fix this.

DSP Adjustment
An example of an exceptional intermodulation distortion measurement from a DSP-equipped car audio amplifier.

Learning About High-Quality Audio Systems and Accurate DSP Adjustment

This article kicks off a series on how to listen to audio systems and components from a technical perspective. We’ve noticed that many consumers think certain products “sound really good” when they are, at best, mediocre. We hope that educating everyone about what to listen for when auditioning speakers and listening to demo vehicles will help people purchase solutions that offer the best performance possible for their investment. As you learn what high-quality car audio upgrades sound like, use that information when working with a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer to pick the best upgrades possible.
This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

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