One of the most critical components in a high-quality vehicle entertainment system is your car audio amplifier. While the concept of increasing the power of an audio signal is simple, it can be somewhat complex to execute elegantly the process. Amplifier design is as much as science as it is an art form. In this article, we will look at everything you need to know to buy the right amplifier for your system.

How We Measure Car Audio Amplifiers

For more than 100 years, people have been using amplifiers to take a small audio signal and increase its power so it can move a speaker. We measure an amplifier’s capacity to do work in watts. Before the industry had a reference set of guidelines for measuring amplifier power, we would see outrageous claims from otherwise minuscule products. The Consumer Technology Association (formerly the Consumer Electronics Association) has worked with industry experts and manufacturers to produce a set of standards to allow the power produced by different brands, makes and models of amplifiers to be comparable. This standard is currently known as CEA-2006A. When you see the associated logo on a product, you can be confident that the power specifications are real and directly comparable.

Features Help Increase Performance

Modern car audio amplifiers are equipped with many different features. These can include crossovers, bass boost circuits, remote level controls and equalization. Crossovers allow your installer to limit the range of frequencies that the amp will reproduce. In the case of a subwoofer amplifier, we can send the entire audio spectrum to the amp. With a low-pass crossover set, only those frequencies below the crossover point will be amplified and sent to the speaker. A high-pass crossover does the opposite, sending only high-frequency information from the input to the output of the amp.

Limiting which frequencies pass through the amplifier allows the speakers to operate within the frequency range for which they were designed. You wouldn’t want bass information to be sent to your tweeters, nor would you want midrange and high-frequency information to be sent to your subwoofer. Almost every car audio amplifier includes crossovers.

Infrasonic or subsonic filters and bass boost controls are additional tuning options that can be used to help maximize the performance of a dedicated subwoofer amplifier. A remote level control – something also found on most subwoofer amplifiers is a volume control for the amp that can be mounted in the front of the vehicle. This control gives you the option of fine-tuning the amount of bass right at your fingertips.

Auditioning a Car Audio Amplifier

Quantifying the performance of a car audio amplifier can be very difficult. The speakers connected to the amplifier are an infinitely bigger contributing factor to how a system sounds. To properly audition an amp, you need to compare it to another using the same set of speakers. A display board in a car audio specialty retailer is a great way to do this. You will want to ensure that the volume level of all amplifiers is the same for the comparison to be valid.

How can the design of an amplifier affect the way it sounds? There are always exceptions, but for the most part, whether the amp is a Class AB or Class D design can have an effect on the high-frequency performance. Class AB amps are often more detailed in the highest of frequencies. Switch back and forth between amplifiers on a display and listen to the ring of a crash or ride cymbal, or that of a triangle. You want to hear clarity and detail.

At the opposite end of the spectrum, the impact and definition of lower frequency information can show off differences in the design of an amplifier’s power supply and the way the amp behaves when amplifying a complex signal. What you want to listen for is the perceived “speed” of the car audio amplifier. When a drummer hits the rim of a tom with his stick or the skin of the bass drum with the pedal, you want be startled. It should be very tight and controlled. The sound should be clear and natural.

One thing you don’t want to hear is warmth. While this goes against what many people perceive as good, warmth can be a sign of even-order harmonic distortion. The best amplifiers don’t change the sound; they just make the signal louder.

What’s Right For You?

When it comes to choosing an amplifier for your mobile entertainment system, the right amp for you is the one that fulfills your system requirements. A four-channel amplifier has always been a great starting point for system upgrades. They can be used to run four speakers and a subwoofer. If a dedicated subwoofer amp is added later on, that four-channel amp can do an even better job of powering those same four speakers. A lot of specialists like to use a four-channel amp to power a set of midrange tweeters and some form of electronic crossover to split up the audio signal between the two.

Amplifiers are available with one to eight channels at power levels from 35 watts per channel to almost 20,000 watts. Always make sure you have enough power for your system. If saving for another few weeks will let you purchase a more powerful amp instead of one that is “just enough,” it is well worth waiting.

The Latest And Greatest

In the past few years, many companies have introduced car audio amplifiers that include powerful DSP processors. These signal processors provide your installer with more control over system crossovers and add time-alignment and advanced equalization options. In the hands of an expert installer, this can add amazing accuracy and realism to a system. When tuned properly, they are the icing on the cake!

A Word About Installation

While car audio amplifiers seem like one of the easiest components to install in a vehicle, the challenge of sourcing a proper audio signal for that amp from a factory radio and dealing with varying current delivery challenges found in today’s automobiles can make proper installation difficult. Having an experienced technician at a car audio shop install and configure your amp is highly recommended. In many cases, manufacturers offer an extended warranty when their products are installed by an authorized dealer.

Visit your local car audio specialist retailer and bring along your favorite music. Listen to as many different amplifiers as you can, then choose the one that meets your system needs, your performance goals and your budget.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

There is no component more important to the sonic performance of your vehicle’s sound system than the car audio speakers you chose to install. You may own the best radio and amplifier in the world, but without great speakers, none of that great sound can get to your ears. Let’s look at why speakers are so important and a few suggestions on how to pick the best ones for your system.

Different Designs of Car Audio Speakers

Every car audio speaker is engineered to operate well within a specific range of frequencies. As a generalization, subwoofers are best at playing those frequencies below 80 Hz. Most midrange speakers can play from 80 Hz to 4 kHz, and tweeters typically play from 4 kHz and up. The size and weight of the speaker cone or diaphragm and the stiffness of the speaker’s suspension components (the spider and the surround) all affect the frequency response of the speaker. We need different-sized speakers to cover the entire audible range of audio.

For the speakers in your vehicle, you have two design choices – component or coaxial speakers. In a component speaker set, the midrange and tweeters are separate pieces. The midrange is often installed in the factory door or dash speaker location, while the tweeter is mounted high in the door, on the dash or in the A-pillars. This higher location helps make the sound appear to come from in front of you rather than from down by your legs. Coaxial car audio speakers still have two separate drivers. The tweeter is physically mounted to the midrange – typically, on a post that extends up through the center of the speaker. Coaxial speakers are easier to install, because there are only two pieces, not four. Both designs can sound very good, but typically, the best of the best speakers are designed as components.

A common trait among high-quality car audio speakers is high-quality passive crossover networks. Every tweeter needs some method of limiting what frequencies are being sent to it. In better systems, the output of the midrange that would normally overlap where the tweeter was playing is also filtered out. Passive crossovers can include tweeter level controls to help provide some basic system tuning.

Listen To This

Listening to speakers has been described as “personal preference” for decades. That being said, a speaker that is very accurate and free from distortion will always stand out from a speaker that has design issues. The best way to audition speakers is in a vehicle. Some companies put extra effort into the design of their speaker systems to make them sound better in a vehicle as compared to on a display board. Retail display boards have the benefit of letting you quickly compare the performance of several different models. Listening to both a demo vehicle and display can be the best solution for helping you pick a great set of speakers.

When you go to listen to speakers, bring your favorite music. It should be something that you have listened to many times on as many different sources as possible. Pick out and listen to different portions of the performance one at a time. If you are comparing speakers on a display, you can switch back and forth as you listen to different pieces of the performance.

Listen for vocals to sound natural. If there is too much high-frequency information, then S, T and P sounds will be over-emphasized. If there is an unwanted resonance in the midbass region (a very common problem with lower-quality speakers), then M and B sounds may be pronounced and sound unnatural. Some speakers sound nasally, some sound harsh. Either can be a sign of a distortion caused by the speaker design. Keep looking if you hear that.

Listen to high-frequency sounds like the ring of a cymbal or high-hat. It should have clarity and detail. Listen for the speed of transients – drums are a great test of a speaker’s ability to reproduce a wide range of frequencies while demonstrating smooth frequency response and lack of distortion. Drums should sound tight and controlled, with great definition.

Size Matters

When it comes to reproducing music, the size of your speakers has a dramatic effect on what you hear. A speaker with more area can move more air for a given amount of power – we refer to this as efficiency. The design of the speaker’s voice coil and the magnet structure also affects efficiency. In most cases, a larger speaker also produces more bass than a small speaker. This has to do with the weight of the speaker cone and the flexibility of the speaker’s suspension components.

Finally, how far the speaker cone can move will determine how loud the speaker can play. Don’t forget; you need amplifier power to move the speaker cone – don’t skimp on power.

Choosing Car Audio Speakers By The Numbers

One thing that an experienced car audio retailer rarely talks about is power handling. While this is important if you are looking for sheer system volume, power handling is in no way a quantifier of the quality of a speaker. There are speakers rated at 50 watts that sound exponentially better than speakers rated at 200 watts. Just as with amplifiers, manufacturers play many games when it comes to speaker power ratings. The only number that matters is the continuous power handling, sometimes referred to as RMS power handling. If you see a speaker with a CEA-2031 Power Rating, that is the best number to use. Max and peak power numbers start to make assumptions about the energy content of music, and it’s best to avoid assumptions. But don’t forget, power handling does not relate to sound quality in any way.

Drop in at your local specialist and have a listen to a few different car audio speakers in the appropriate size for your application and your price range. It may even help to make some notes as you listen. Your installer can offer suggestions like new wiring and sound deadening that can further improve the performance of your speakers once they are installed in your car. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and most importantly – have fun listening to your music! That’s what a great car audio system is all about!

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

When it comes to high-current wiring in a vehicle, there are two types of stranded power wire available: solid copper and copper-clad aluminum. This article looks at the differences between each kind of wire, and explain the challenges of ensuring your high-current device gets the power it needs to do the job you want done.

Car Audio Power Wire: Background

In mobile applications, or anywhere that a conductor may be exposed to movement or vibration, it is recommended to use only stranded conductors. Solid conductors (like single-strand house wiring) may offer slightly more conductor area for a given wire diameter, but over time, the solid wire can work-harden, become brittle and eventually break from repeated back-and-forth motion. Imagine using large-gauge solid copper wires in the wire boot in a door jamb or to your trunk or hatch lid. That is a recipe for disaster.

The term OFC (oxygen-free copper) has become abused and is used synonymously with solid or all-copper conductors. In actuality, OFC is a type of solid copper. When molten copper is cast and drawn into a conductor, the process to make an OFC conductor reduces the oxygen content of the wire. If all is done perfectly, the copper-oxygen content is around 42 parts per million (PPM) vs. a conventional copper with content that is roughly six times that amount.

In the mobile electronics industry, there is no way to know if the solid copper conductor you are purchasing is oxygen-free or not unless you can witness the casting process in person. Everyone in the industry uses “OFC” for a piece of wire that is not copper-clad aluminum (CCA).

Looking at the alternative, we have CCA conductors. In these conductors, the core of the wire is a cylinder of aluminum and around it is a layer of copper. From the side, it looks like copper, but if you cut off a piece and look at the end, you can see the gray aluminum content.

There are further variations. Some companies manufacture all-copper strand wire but coat the outside of each strand with a thin layer of tin to help prevent corrosion.

Car Audio Power Wire: Size

When it comes to flowing electricity, or, more specifically, flowing electrons, the most important thing to consider is wire size. In the mobile electronics industry, we use the American Wire Gauge (AWG) standard. This sets a specific diameter for a conductor. It’s not a debatable number – the conductor either meets the standard or it doesn’t.

Here is where the games begin. There is a second term used in our industry: gauge. In the steel sheet industry, gauge is an important tool for specifying material thickness. In car audio, it means nothing. If you have been around the industry for any amount of time, you will have seen wires that claim to be 0 gauge but have a conductor area equivalent to a 6 AWG. If a wire is labeled as 4 gauge, then sadly, you have no way of knowing how big it is, other than attempting to measure it.

Cutting a wire and looking at the area also doesn’t always tell the story. Some wires are wound quite loosely. This makes the wire very flexible, but does so because there is space around the strands. You sacrifice effective cross-sectional conductor area for flexibility.

Car Audio Power Wire: Materials

In solid copper stranded wire, we ideally want everything to be pure copper. That said, pure copper is quite expensive, even though the cost of pure copper has come down over the past few years; it currently sits at around $2.00–$2.25 a pound on the commodities market. When a manufacturer wants to purchase wire, there are many options: strand count, how the strands and bundles are woven, how tightly they are woven, and so on. Manufacturers also have a choice in the “kind” of copper they make the conductors with. It could be pure copper, recycled copper or a copper alloy. Again, you have no way of knowing unless you are witness to the process.

Don’t let the variations in copper scare you. A solid copper conductor always outperforms a CCA conductor. The biggest challenge with car audio CCA wiring is that it does not, and will not, specify the ratio of copper to aluminum. There are publically displayed measurements of different CCA wire samples where a smaller-diameter wire outperforms a slightly larger wire because it has less aluminum and more copper. Unless you measure it yourself, you just don’t know.

On its own, pound for pound, aluminum has about 60% more resistance to the flow of electricity. When we talk about CCA wire, there is some copper in there; in most cases, the difference diminishes to 30 to 40%.

Car Audio Power Wire: The Challenge

When you look at car audio wiring, there is no way to know what you are getting with a CCA amp kit or roll of wire. Some manufacturers make CCA wire that functions nearly as well as solid copper. In fact, one company makes an oversized CCA that has less resistance per foot than solid copper. The downside is that the wire doesn’t fit into a lot of connectors or terminal blocks. Overall, unless you want to take the time to measure the properties of the kit you are buying, it is better to stick to solid copper.

From the standpoint of long-term benefits, solid copper wire resists corrosion much better than CCA wiring. In climates where road salt or brine is used in the winter to keep surfaces clear of ice, we have seen instances where unprotected CCA power wires have failed completely in less than two years. Why risk the performance of your audio system, when you can simply choose the solid copper wire?

How do you know if you are getting something good? The Consumer Technology Association (formerly the Consumer Electronics Association) has developed a standard for wiring. It is called CTA-2015 (formerly CEA-2015) specification. It describes the minimum standards for wiring for use in mobile electronics applications. The standards include that the wire must be stranded solid copper, the minimum number of strands for a given AWG wire size, and the area of the wire and its maximum resistance. If you stick to the brands that support the CTA-2015 standard, you should never have any problems.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

For decades, car audio enthusiasts have been fiddling around with the gain control on their amplifiers in hopes of “getting more out of them.” Many professional installers have scientific, repeatable processes in place to ensure these controls are set to provide the maximum performance and reliability from your audio system. Let’s look at the most misunderstood, and most often adjusted, control on car audio amplifiers – the gain control.

What Is a Gain Control?

When a manufacturer decides to develop an amplifier, they need to decide how many channels it will have, how much power it will produce, what additional features it will include and what source units it will work with. Because modern source units have maximum preamp output voltages that range from 1.7 to 5 volts, amplifiers have to be adjustable to make their full rated power when driven with these signals.

Let’s make up an example: Imagine a 100 watt mono amplifier that was designed to produce full power (100 watts) when it receives 2 volts of audio signal. This is a reasonable amount of signal gain, but leaves us open to two significant problems. What if we want to use this amplifier with a source unit that can only produce 1.7 volts? We can’t get the amplifier to full power even with the volume control on our radio turned all the way up. In fact, we only get 72.25 watts out of our amplifier. On the flip side, if we have a source unit that can put out 4 volts of signal, then the amp would attempt to make 400 watts with our fixed gain setting. Since the power supply of the amp was only designed to provide enough voltage to produce 100 watts, the signal would be severely clipped and distorted, and there is a great chance that the amplifier and your speakers might be damaged.

The Solution

For a single amplifier to work with multiple sources, amplifier manufacturers have to make the input signal level adjustable. We call this the gain or sensitivity control. It doesn’t adjust how much power the amplifier will make, but it does adjust how much of the input signal the amp uses to make full power.

There is a secondary reason for adjustability: Not every speaker has the same sensitivity. This means that sometimes you have more power than you need. Let’s say your front speakers produce 90 dB of output from 1 watt of power, but your rear speakers are much larger and produce 93 dB of output from the same 1 watt of power. For them to appear to be of equal loudness at the listening position, we only need half the power to the rear speakers. We turn down the sensitivity of the rear channels of an amplifier to balance these out.

Making Gains (Using Your Gain Control!)

Your installer may use one of many different processes to adjust the gain controls of your amplifier. We want the gain controls to be as low as possible, but still allow you to get full power from the amplifier. Why do we want the gain low? That is, perhaps, the fundamental key to this article.

We want the amplifier to accept an input signal with as much voltage as possible for it to produce full power. Having more voltage on your interconnect cables helps drown out noise. Less amplifier sensitivity (lower gain setting) also helps to reduce noise. When the amplifier gains are set properly, you get full power from your amp without unnecessary hiss or background noise.

There are four common methods for adjusting gain controls: by ear, with a small amplified speaker, with an oscilloscope or with a distortion detection device. Setting by ear with music is very difficult and can lead to inconsistent settings. That being said, if your installer uses a test tone, the “by ear” process can work quite reliably. Using a small amplified speaker is similar to that process – there is a test tone, but the small speaker allows your installer to check the preamp signal from the source unit, and in and out of any signal processors.

Using an oscilloscope to set an amplifier’s gain control is one of the best ways to get an accurate reading. Oscilloscopes work for any frequency, so they are very flexible. Your installer can see exactly when the amp has reached its peak voltage.

Finally, companies like D’Amore Engineering and SMD have developed products designed specifically for mobile electronic installers to check for signal distortion on preamp or speaker signals. All you have to do is plug the device in and turn it up until the red Distortion LED comes on. Bam – done! A word of warning on these devices, though: They are very accurate and can detect distortions other than signal clipping. Many product design problems have been found when attempting to set gains with these.

How Can You Check Your Gains?

If the sensitivity controls on your amplifiers are set properly, you should be able to get your amplifiers to distort a little bit with the source unit at full volume. If you are wondering why a properly set amplifier will distort, that’s a great question. It’s called gain overlap. We want to have a little extra sensitivity in case we are playing a song that is recorded quietly. A great example of this is the well-known “Brothers In Arms” album by Dire Straits. It needs a good 5 extra dB of gain to get rocking. In fact, the original 1985 release from Warner Brothers Records had several songs where the loudest part of the song was below -5 dB. “Why Worry” has a peak level of -13.27 dB. A nightmare for an installer trying to set gains, but, luckily, that’s not a song most people rock out to.

If you can’t turn your volume control past halfway without your amplifiers running out of power (distorting), then it’s time to visit your local mobile electronics specialist. Likewise, if you hear a significant amount of hiss at low volume levels, then you likely need an adjustment.

Properly set gain controls won’t make your system quieter, and turning up the sensitivity doesn’t make your amplifier more power. Gain controls exist to ensure that your system is always working the best it can. Please leave them alone, or ask your installer about how they are set.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.