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Headlight Bulb Upgrades: Part 5: Electrical Interference

Electrical Interference

As we continue our series on headlight bulb upgrades, it’s time to discuss electrical interference. Just as in the previous article on spectral content, this is an issue that very few retailers or manufacturers check for or discuss. While these considerations don’t affect the performance of your lighting system, they can significantly affect the performance of your vehicle’s audio system. They could also potentially affect tire pressure monitoring or keyless entry systems. Let’s dive in!

What Is Electrical Interference?

Let’s talk about what causes electrical interference. At the most fundamental level, any time current flows through a conductor, an electrical field is created around that conductor. We typically discuss direct current (DC) when talking about the battery and alternator in vehicle electrical systems. The fixed electrical field around conductors isn’t a huge issue for DC flow unless the alternator has a regulator problem and is adding alternating current (AC) ripples. Even then, it’s the AC that could pose a problem.

We can get into noise trouble with DC when it powers a device with a switching power supply. Large car audio amplifiers, HID light ballasts and LED light bars are devices with switching power supplies that can cause interference issues. Some LED bulbs also have switching power supplies.

Electrical Interference
Inexpensive, poorly designed lights with switching power supplies can cause electrical interference.

Inside a switching power supply, the DC power from the vehicle’s electrical systems is pulsed on and off very quickly. These pulses enter a transformer that steps the voltage up or down. Amplifiers typically use step-up transformers to produce higher voltages to deliver more power to speakers. Items like LED lighting systems use step-down transformers or buck regulators to decrease voltage.

When the current from the battery pulses on and off, that can create a significant source of electrical interference. If you’ve ever adjusted the dimmer in a home and heard the light bulb ring, that’s the presence of unwanted harmonics caused by switching the AC supply on and off midway through the waveform.

You will find that high-quality amplifiers, in particular, have filtering networks on the power feed into the amp. These networks help smooth any noise that might come from the alternator. Still, they primarily prevent switching noise from inside the amplifier from being fed back onto the power wire to radiate through the vehicle.

Electrical Interference
Amplifiers like this ARC Audio X2 650.1 include capacitors and inductors on the power inputs to prevent radio interference.

What Problems Does Electrical Interference Cause?

In lighting systems, the most common problem in poorly designed lights is the effect on AM and FM radio reception. The noise produced typically occurs in the same range of frequencies as AM (780 to 1610 kHz) and FM (88 to 108 MHz). This unwanted interference can drown out weak radio station signals or add noise to some stations.

Other wireless communication systems like keyless entry and tire pressure monitoring can be affected by sources of electrical noise. Most keyless entry systems operate on 315 and 433 MHz frequencies. Tire pressure monitoring systems use these same frequencies.

If you think a recent lighting or accessory upgrade is affecting radio reception, there’s an easy way to test to see if your hypothesis is correct. Turn on the radio and tune to whatever station you think is affected. Then, turn off the device you think is causing the interference. If it’s a lighting product, turn off the lights. Pull the fuse out of the amp if you think there’s something else, like a subwoofer amplifier, that might be causing problems. This testing process gets tricky if all the sound from your audio system is produced by the amp you think is causing the problem. In that case, seek professional assistance.

Dealing with Electrically Noisy Lighting Upgrades

If you’re in a situation where you have a noisy lighting upgrade, return it and have the shop install a higher-quality product.

If you’re determined to have the shop fight with what you’ve purchased, two solutions typically work to reduce noise feeding back into the vehicle’s electrical system. The first and most straightforward solution is to add an inline filter. These filters include capacitors and inductors that help smooth out the noise from the switching power supply in the lights.

If the installer reads the instructions for most HID and LED upgrades, they’ll note that most reputable companies recommend installing new light wiring. Companies like Lumens HPL offer harnesses with the correct connectors or plugs to integrate directly with the factory wiring. These harnesses include relays, fuse holders and everything needed to power the new lights directly from the battery.

Electrical Interference
Two examples of HDRL aftermarket lighting power harnesses from Lumens HPL.

There are two benefits to using a dedicated power harness. First and foremost, power for whatever lights you’ve chosen comes directly from the battery and alternator. These power sources bypass any daytime running light or sensing circuitry, so you know the system will get all the voltage possible from the vehicle. Second, if the bulbs you’ve chosen are from a no-name brand that does cause electrical interference on the wiring, the battery acts like a giant filter. The wiring that might have noise on it remains up in the front of the vehicle. If your installer used the factory wiring, that noise might feed back to a body control module in the vehicle interior.

Electrical Interference
An example of an installation wiring diagram for aftermarket lights.

Measuring Electrical Interference

We have a device in the BestCarAudio.com lab called an RTL-SDR. In short, it’s a USB-stick radio receiver. We can tune into radio frequencies and decode AM or FM audio signals using dedicated software. We can also monitor ham or GRMS radio. This device is a receiver-only solution – we can’t broadcast.

We set the antenna up about a meter from an old HID ballast and took some measurements. We don’t have any low-quality light upgrades around the shop, but at least we could see “something” from our testing.

The image below is a spectrographic capture of 10 seconds of RF energy between 90.4 and 92.9 MHz. These frequencies would be down near the bottom of the FM radio band. Brighter colors in the spectrograph show more power. The red and yellow information on the left is the audio from 91.1 FM. The light blue in the middle is 91.7, and the yellow is 92.1. You can see the clearly defined bands on either side of the 92.1 MHz audio information. Those digital side-bands can carry information like HD Radio or RDS-TMC traffic information.

Electrical Interference
A spectrographic sample of radio frequency information between 90.4 and 92.9 MHz.

We moved the antenna to an area of the lab where radio reception is much worse to establish a baseline for our test. That image is below.

Electrical Interference
Our reference RF measurement with no strong radio stations.

Next, we turned on that HID light and repeated the measurement.

Electrical Interference
Measurement of the RF output of a HID headlight ballast and bulb.

Though it’s not terrible, several dozen bands of sweeping energy have now polluted the measurement. These signals wouldn’t likely be strong enough to prevent you from picking up a radio station. Still, it would reduce audio signal clarity when reception is affected by buildings or environmental conditions.

Buy Quality Products and Avoid Headaches

When the price of a product seems too good to be true, it often is. Sometimes, it’s not the specific performance of a light or amplifier; they might do what they claim. However, other factors like electrical interference or heat may cause problems. If you stick with brand-name solutions, you’re unlikely to run into problems. Drop by a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer to learn about the high-quality lighting upgrades available to help you see safely when the sun sets.

Lead-In Image: Credit to @zirconicusso for the radio image used in the Lead-In.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Lighting, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Car Audio Crossover Slopes, Alignments and Summing

Crossover Slopes

Car audio upgrades are much more complex than setting up speakers in your living room. They are, unless all you have in the system is a set of coaxial speakers in your doors. Your installer has to consider crossover slopes and alignments if you have front and rear speakers and a subwoofer. They must also understand how the settings interact at the crossover frequency. Let’s take a nerdy look at crossover slopes and alignments, and how they sum together.

Why Do Speakers Need Crossovers?

We primarily use crossovers on speakers to protect smaller drivers from damage from over-excursion and overpowering. Say your car audio system has a set of 1-inch tweeters in the dash or the doors. Those small drivers can’t produce bass frequencies with any efficiency, and they can only a handle few watts of power. Yes, we know they say 80, 100 or 150 watts on them. But that’s their rating with pink noise referenced to bass frequencies. When you filter out everything below 3,000 Hz, all that’s left of a 100-watt signal is about 0.26 watt for the tweeter. Feeding it a sine wave at 100 watts will destroy it in about a second.

The second reason we use crossovers is to prevent excursion damage. Can you imagine sending 100 watts of deep bass information into a 3.5-inch dash speaker or a PA-style midrange? With only a few millimeters of excursion capability, these small speakers will be pushed well beyond their linear excursion limits, adding significant distortion to the output. Think of it like mechanical clipping. It sounds terrible and can damage the suspension and voice coil. High-pass crossovers are the ideal solution for preventing the above issues.

Low-pass crossovers are needed to ensure that the output from the speaker system comes from a single source. You would never want a midrange driver playing up to 5 kHz when the tweeter is playing from 3 kHz and up. The goal of the low-pass crossover on a midrange or woofer is to keep the transition from one speaker to the other smooth and transparent.

Crossover Slopes and Output Attenuation

Crossovers don’t stop all sound reproduction above or below a specific frequency. For example, a tweeter still produces audio information at 2 and 2.5 kHz when set up with a 3-kHz high-pass crossover. If you look at the graph below, you’ll see a -6 dB/octave high-pass crossover set at 3 kHz.

Crossover Slopes
A -6 dB/octave high-pass crossover set at 3 kHz.

If we analyze the information carefully, we can see that the output from this ARC Audio digital signal processor would be at -3 dB at the crossover frequency of 3 kHz. The frequency set in the software can be called the crossover frequency or the knee frequency. Looking farther to the left, the output decreases with frequency. The difference between 3 kHz and 2 kHz is 6 dB. The difference between 2 kHz and 1 kHz is another 6 dB. The rate at which the output gets quieter is called the crossover slope. In this example, it’s -6 dB per octave. This is also known as a first-order crossover.

Digital signal processors have made it easy for installers to set crossovers quickly and accurately. Entering a value into software is much more precise than turning a knob on an amplifier. Those knobs are connected to potentiometers (adjustable resistors) that are notoriously inconsistent. Some companies used resistor networks instead of potentiometers on their electronic crossovers, like AudioControl’s infamous 24XS.

Crossover Slopes
An example of four different active 3 kHz crossover slopes.

The image above shows our original first-order, -6 dB/octave high-pass filter in white. The gray trace is a -12 dB/octave second-order filter. The green trace is a third-order, -18 dB/octave filter. Finally, the violet trace is a fourth-order, -24 dB/octave high-pass filter.

The benefit of steeper filters is improved signal attenuation at lower frequencies. The first-order filter was down 10 dB at 1 kHz. This amplitude means the speaker would get 1/10 as much power as it does through the pass band (frequencies above the crossover point). The second-order filter results in the signal at 1 kHz being -19.2 dB down. That’s close to 1/100 the power at 1 kHz compared to above 3 kHz. The third-order filter is down 28.7 dB, and the fourth-order is -38.2.

A second benefit of steeper filters is that the range of frequencies where the output comes from both drivers simultaneously is much smaller.

Crossover Alignments

So far, we’ve been looking at a crossover with a Butterworth response. Originally, crossovers were constructed using capacitors, inductors and resistors. Balancing the attenuation rate while delivering flat performance through the pass band (the range of frequencies you want to hear) was tricky with off-the-shelf passive components, even in electronic circuits. Butterworth filters offer moderate roll-off rates but deliver smooth response through the pass-band. They also have an output level of -3 dB at the crossover frequency. This level at the crossover frequency is a crucial consideration that we’ll circle back to later.

Another commonly available crossover type is called a Bessel alignment. Bessel filters offered the best group delay, whereas the Butterworth had the smoothest pass-band response characteristics. These are also popular in audio systems. We’ll get into a deep discussion of group-delay another time. For now, think of it like “timing issues.” Bessel filters are very similar to Butterworth in that they have a -3 dB level at the crossover frequency. Bessel filters are only available in even-order alignments, so second-order -12 dB/octave or fourth-order -24 dB/octave in most systems.

The last filter we’ll talk about is called the Linkwitz-Riley. This is another filter option that’s only available in even-order alignments. Technicians designing electronic circuits can create a Linkwitz-Riley (LR) filter by combining two Butterworth filters. So, a second-order LR (LR2) is two first-order Butterworth filters added together in series. An LR4 is two second-order Butterworth filters. The key benefit of the Linkwitz-Riley filter is that the output is at -6 dB at the crossover frequency.

Crossover Slopes
An example of three second-order, high-pass crossover alignments.

The image above shows a Butterworth alignment in white, a Linkwitz-Riley alignment in gray and a Bessel alignment in green.

Speakers and Signal Summing

Two identical speakers playing the same signal at the same amplitude, at equal distances from the listener, will produce 6 dB SPL more output than a single speaker.

Producing smooth frequency response through the crossover region is crucial for configuring and calibrating car audio systems. If the crossovers you’ve chosen have a -3 dB level at the knee frequency (the frequency set in the software), then the output of the two speakers sums to produce a bump that’s +3 dB in amplitude. This is a problem. We don’t want bumps in frequency response anywhere in the system. The high- and low-pass signals sum flat if your installer uses a Linkwitz-Riley filter at -6 dB at the crossover point. As a result, the system is much easier to equalize, and there’s a reduced overlap range between the two drivers.

If you look at most car audio amplifiers with built-in crossovers, you’ll find that entry- to mid-level models offer -12 dB/octave Butterworth crossovers. As you move up in the model ranges, you might find they have -18 or -24 dB/octave filters. Very few amplifiers with built-in electronic crossovers offer Linkwitz-Riley alignments.

Crossover Slopes
Rockford Fosgate offers -24 dB/octave crossovers on their Power and Punch Series amplifiers.

Setting Electronic Crossovers

Let’s discuss setting a crossover on an amplifier between a subwoofer and the door speakers. In almost all instances, assuming the door speakers can play loudly and at midbass frequencies, the optimum crossover point is usually 80 Hz. Regarding the crossover slope, you want it to be as steep as possible, up to -24 dB/octave.

If a technician eyeballs the crossover options on an amplifier and tries to set them both to that frequency, we run into several problems. First, the actual crossover frequency is likely quite different than the labels on the amp chassis because of variances in the potentiometer inside the amp.

Next, even if the labels were perfect, unless the electronic crossovers have a Linkwitz-Riley alignment, the system’s output will have a 3 dB bump at the crossover frequency. We must underlap the crossovers when they are Butterworth or Bessel alignments. This makes using a real-time analyzer the only accurate way to set this type of electronic crossover.

Adding a high-quality digital signal processor to the system is a more straightforward and predictable solution. Your installer can select Linkwitz-Riley filter alignments and make precise crossover frequency selections. Of equal importance, they can then use a calibrated microphone to adjust the frequency response of the system to compensate for reflections and resonances in the vehicle. Drop by a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer today to discover the digital signal processors that are available to upgrade your system.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Headlight Bulb Upgrades: Part 4 – Headlight Bulb Type and Object Illumination

Headlight Bulb Type

We’ve watched hundreds of videos on YouTube and read dozens of articles on headlight upgrades, yet we’ve never seen anybody discuss how different bulb types light up different colored objects. We aren’t discussing the headlight bulbs’ brightness or the beam pattern. Halogen, HID and LED bulbs output different wavelengths of energy. We see objects when that energy reflects off them and bounces back to our eyes. It stands to reason that the perfect light source would illuminate all colors identically. However, that isn’t the case. Let’s dive in.

Light Source Spectral Analysis

Let’s start with an analogy. Most of our readers are familiar with the audible frequency range of human hearing, which is 20 Hz to 20 kHz. There are plenty of frequencies above 20 kHz that animals like dogs, cats, dolphins, bats and whales can detect. A porpoise can hear from 75 Hz to 150 kHz. That’s a half-octave higher than bats.

Our vision works in the same way. Our eyes can detect light within a specific range of frequencies, between 400 and 790 terahertz. Different frequencies represent different colors. As we age, our ability to detect differences in violet, blue and green objects diminishes.

Headlight Bulb Type

The chart above shows the colors the human eye can perceive, including frequency ranges and wavelengths. When we discuss color, we use wavelength rather than frequency. Energy with a higher frequency than violet light is called ultraviolet. Energy with a lower frequency than red light is called infrared. Some animals can see energy in these extended frequency ranges to help them find food or mates.

How Sunlight Affects Color Distribution

We can measure the amount of each frequency a light produces using a color spectrometer. The information the spectrometer provides is like a real-time analyzer for audio signals. It tells you what frequencies (or wavelengths) are present and the amplitude of each of those frequencies.

Headlight Bulb Type
An example of a frequency response measurement taken using SMAART software.

The graph above shows that there isn’t much information below 125 Hz, which is logical since the sample came from a laptop speaker. Because this is a sample of music and not a test tone, there isn’t much else we can extract from the data other than the information extending to 20 kHz.

Now, let’s establish a standard for light spectral measurement. The graph below shows the spectral content of a measurement of the sun taken on a clear day.

Headlight Bulb Type
Spectral analysis of light from the sun on a clear day.

We can see that the light distribution is relatively even across the visible spectrum. Environmental factors like moisture, oxygen, dust and pollution cause dips and low-wavelength attenuation.

How we perceive objects depends on the light source that illuminates those objects. All colors are easily visible when we are outside on a sunny day. When we move indoors and use different light sources, the energy balance shifts dramatically. Let’s look at three popular headlight types and analyze how they produce light.

Up first, let’s look at a halogen headlight bulb. This is a basic Phillips bulb with a single filament. It doesn’t have any blue coatings. We measured the light level at a distance of 2 meters from a projector-style headlight assembly.

Headlight Bulb Type
Spectral analysis of a halogen headlight bulb.

It’s easy to see that most of the light energy produced by the halogen bulb is in the high wavelength/lower frequency range. This energy distribution makes sense, given the amount of heat the bulb produces. This halogen bulb produces very little green or violet light.

Now, let’s check out the light produced by a high-intensity discharge (HID) light bulb. This particular system is from a company called Lumens. I’ve used them in almost all my vehicles for decades.

Headlight Bulb Type
Spectral analysis of a HID headlight bulb.

The HID bulb produces light that contains peaks at several lower wavelengths. Those peaks would correlate to the different chemicals present in the ARC chamber. Using gas chromatography, scientists can analyze the light from burning gases to identify the elements that are present. The takeaway from the HID analysis is that very little orange or red light is produced.

Let’s look at an aftermarket light-emitting diode (LED) bulb. This is one of the Sportline bulbs from Lumens.

Headlight Bulb Type
Spectral analysis of an LED headlight bulb.

The LED bulb produces primarily blue light with a bit of light green, yellow and light orange. Very little violet, dark blue or red light is produced.

Let’s combine all three measurements to see how they compare in terms of the colors of light energy they produce.

Headlight Bulb Type
A composite of the three light sources in a single graph.

The HID and halogen are similar if you measure the total light produced by these bulbs. The LED isn’t quite as bright in this application. However, we want to look at the frequencies produced by each light source. These correlate to the color of objects that will be illuminated well. If a bulb doesn’t produce a significant amount of red light, red objects won’t show up well.

How Light Sources Affect Object Perception

We set up some Hot Wheels cars on a white background to quantify how these light sources illuminate different colored objects. We took pictures of the vehicles with the three light sources without changing the camera settings. The camera is a Canon 70D with a 50mm F/1.8 lens. The settings for the images are 1/10 of a second exposure with an f/8 aperture and the camera set to ISO 100. Aside from cropping and resizing, we didn’t adjust the images in any way.

Headlight Bulb Type
Our little collection of Hot Wheels cars illuminated by the room lights in the shop.

The room lights cast reasonably even light over the cars. The dark violet Batmobile to the left of the two-tone blue SUV is a little dark, as these are LED lights. The vehicles are not in the direct hot spot of the light source since we didn’t want too much reflection.

Let’s start with the halogen headlight first.

Headlight Bulb Type
Our selection of Hot Wheels illuminated by a halogen headlight.

The violet Batmobile and blue SUV look almost black in this image. The red car on the right and the fluorescent yellow truck beside it are well-illuminated. Of course, the white car second from the left is also easy to see.

Next is the HID headlight.

Headlight Bulb Type
Our selection of Hot Wheels illuminated by a HID headlight.

The two-tone blue SUV appears much brighter in this image. The red on the far-right car and the yellow on the Lego car beside it are much more subdued than with the halogen light source.

Finally, let’s look at the LED bulb.

Headlight Bulb Type
Our selection of Hot Wheels illuminated by an LED headlight.

Unsurprisingly, the green car stands out more under the LED light. The red, yellow and violet cars remain relatively dark.

Now, let’s combine the three images. I boosted the exposure levels in Adobe Photoshop so the overall brightness is similar in each sample.

Headlight Bulb Type
All three images were adjusted to provide similar exposure.

It’s easy to discern that the ability to see objects depends significantly on the spectral content of light sources and not just their measured lux or rated lumens. A halogen or HID bulb would be best if you wanted the highest-performance lighting system. The worst choice for even light distribution would be an LED bulb. This testing shows that many people underestimate the performance of those old-fashioned halogen bulbs.

Different Lights Illuminate Differently Colored Objects

I was in a vehicle with halogen headlights a few weeks ago while it was dark out. It was clear that those headlights did a much better job illuminating stop and yellow warning street signs than my car with factory-installed HID bulbs. I wouldn’t have described the headlights as bright, but they were surprisingly effective.

If you’re considering a headlight bulb upgrade, remember that the type of bulb you choose will significantly affect what you can see. How bright the bulb is might be less critical. Drop by a specialty mobile enhancement retailer today to find out about the light upgrades that are available for your vehicle.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Lighting, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Product Spotlight: Compustar Pro T13 Remote Starter

Compustar Pro T13

Only a handful of reputable companies manufacture remote car starters, but one stands out for its innovative solutions—Compustar. Their flagship Pro T13 is the industry’s longest-range radio-frequency car starter remote. Combine that with features like proximity unlocking, an LCD screen, and intuitive controls, and this is the ultimate remote control solution. Let’s explore why range is vital to making your vehicle more comfortable.

Compustar Pro T13 Remote Control

Compustar makes it easy for mobile enhancement retailers to design a car starter system tailored to your vehicle and needs. The Product Specialist you are working with can choose from several control modules, with the right one depending on your car’s specifications and desired features. For instance, the CM-X controller is ideal if your vehicle has a manual transmission. For consumers, these decisions typically happen behind the scenes as your quote is prepared.

What matters to you is the system interface. The factory remote coded to start the car when you press the lock button three times in short succession might be adequate if the range doesn’t matter much. If you want more range and features, your retailer can pair any of Compustar’s RF remote kits with the control module to meet your needs. If you want a simple one-button solution with two or three times as much range as the factory fob, they have it. Need two-way communication with trunk release? No problem! But if you want maximum range, two-way communication, security alerts, and much more, the Pro T13 remote is the ultimate option.

The Pro T13 is impressively compact at 2.84 inches tall, 1.57 inches wide, and only 0.44 inches deep. It features a vibrant color display that indicates whether your vehicle is locked, unlocked, or running.

Simple and Elegant Interface

The remote includes three buttons to access 50 commands and configuration settings. Locking, unlocking, or remotely starting your car is just a button press away. Double-tapping the lock or unlock buttons activates auxiliary outputs one and two. These outputs can control features like power sliding doors or rear defrost. The latter can even be configured to activate automatically if the interior temperature drops below a specific threshold. Your retailer can provide more details. Car Finder, trunk release, and much more are also easily accessible.

Compustar Pro T13
The T13 remote includes a charging cable, antenna, and all the wiring your installer needs to integrate with a Compustar remote start control module.

Class-Leading Range and Reliability

The key factor that sets the Pro T13 apart from other remote starters is its range. Range is the maximum distance from which the remote can communicate with your vehicle. Compustar specifies the Pro T13’s range at up to three miles under ideal conditions. We’ve measured the performance in real-world situations, which bested other remotes by more than 20%!

More importantly, the Pro T13’s powerful transceiver works excellently indoors. For instance, you can be at the far end of a shopping mall, in an apartment or office building, or inside a large factory and still communicate with your vehicle. This exceptional range ensures your car or truck has enough time to warm up in winter or cool down in summer long before you arrive at it.

Color Display and Two-Way Communication

The Pro T13’s two-way communication ensures reliability. When you press the lock button, the remote confirms the action with a beep and a visual indicator on the color LCD screen showing that the vehicle is locked. Unlike one-way remotes, which act like TV remotes, this feature gives you peace of mind, as you always know your vehicle’s status.

The color display not only tells you what the car is doing using intuitive icons but also shows the vehicle battery voltage, the temperature in the vehicle, and the battery level of the remote itself.

Compustar Pro T13
The Pro T13 remote offers two-way communications to ensure you always know what’s happening with your vehicle.

Proximity Unlocking Adds Convenience

Another standout feature of the Pro T13—and its smaller one-button counterpart, the Pro R5—is proximity unlocking. When you’re within five to six feet of your car or truck, the remote automatically communicates with the vehicle to unlock the doors—no need to press any buttons! Whether carrying groceries, holding a child, or juggling tonight’s pizza, this feature makes life easier.

Rechargeable Battery Pack and Rugged Design

Unlike most remotes, which use disposable coin-cell batteries, the Pro T13 features a built-in rechargeable battery. Connect the provided mini-USB cable to a USB outlet for a few hours to recharge it. You can even charge it while driving your vehicle.

This remote is as durable as possible, with an IPX-7 water resistance rating. This means it can survive being submerged in water, whether it’s a pool, puddle, or snowbank. Compustar backs the Pro T13 and other Pro Series remotes with a three-year warranty, giving you confidence in your investment.

Compustar Pro T13
The durable design of the T13 is backed by a three-year warranty.

Security System Ready for Added Protection

Are you concerned about theft or vandalism? Most Compustar remote car starters with the Pro T13 can be upgraded with advanced security features. Compustar’s alarm enhancements include a starter kill, a high-output siren, an optional horn-honk output, and a robust digital security sensor.

This sensor monitors impacts, motion, glass breakage, or vehicle tilting. If triggered, the Pro T13 remote alerts you with a loud beep and a display notification. This lets you take immediate action if needed.

Drone Smartphone Control Included

The T13 Remote kit includes the Drone smartphone control interface. Drone allows you to use the DroneMobile app on your smartphone to control your vehicle. You can lock or unlock the doors, remote start the engine, or even pop the trunk with a tap on your phone screen. You can even log into the dronemobile.com website and send commands from your desk at home or work.

The Drone can be upgraded with GPS-based location and geofence alerts. Tracking service plans are ideal if you let your kids drive the family car or want to monitor how your staff uses a company vehicle. Your local authorized Compustar retailer can explain the different service plans available.

Compustar Pro T13
The Drone smartphone control system provides effectively unlimited range and advanced tracking options to protect your vehicle.

Why Is Remote Starter Range Important

Let’s say you work in a large building like a hospital, warehouse, or factory. When you finish your shift, you can remote start your car or truck while packing up to leave. Your vehicle will have several minutes for the climate control to start making the interior more comfortable. In the winter, the rear window defroster can be activated automatically, so cleaning the car off is easier.

If the remotes that come with your car or low-cost car starters don’t have enough signal transmission power, you’ll have to wait until you are at the door or even outside in the parking lot to activate the starter. Now, you’ll have less than a minute for the engine to warm up. Inadequate range negates the benefit of having the starter.

The Ultimate Remote Starter Solution

If these features sound like the ultimate remote car starter recipe, you’re right. With industry-leading range capabilities, two-way communication, a color display, rugged durability, a rechargeable battery, and advanced security options, the Compustar Pro T13 is in a class of its own.

Visit an authorized Compustar Pro retailer today to learn how they can configure a system for maximum comfort and security. Use the Dealer Locator on Compustar’s website to find a retailer near you. Also, follow Compustar on YouTube, Facebook, and Instagram for updates on their amazing products.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, PRODUCTS, Remote Car Starters, RESOURCE LIBRARY Tagged With: Compustar

Headlight Bulb Upgrades: Part 3: Beam Patterns

Beam Pattern

We are back with the third article in our series about headlight bulb upgrades. In the first article, we discussed the many different headlight bulb designs and how they’ve advanced over the last century. The second article in the series explained the terminology used when discussing light sources. How a light assembly projects light onto the road is more important than the choice of the headlight bulb. If it’s aimed in the wrong direction or with emphasis in the wrong area, you won’t be able to see where you are going. Worse, less-than-ideal light distribution may endanger oncoming drivers. In this third article, let’s review headlight beam patterns.

What Is a Headlight Beam Pattern?

Let’s define the term beam pattern. When you shine a light on a surface, it produces a shape. If the light is a point source like a candle, the light is distributed evenly from the source in the form of a sphere. Bringing the candle up close to a surface will result in a round shape that is brightest, where the light source is closest to the surface. The illumination level decreases as the distance between the surface and the light source increases. Out of a headlight assembly, a halogen or HID headlight bulb effectively acts like a point-source light source.

Beam Pattern
The illumination pattern of a candle held near a wall.

The results differ if we have a directional light source, like a flashlight. The beam pattern would be a circle on the wall with a sharp cutoff at the edges. The light emanates from the flashlight in the shape of a cone.

Beam Pattern
The beam pattern created when we point a flashlight at a wall.

Automotive headlamp assemblies are similar to a flashlight. They use a reflector to point the light forward from the front of the vehicle. As forward lighting became brighter, the importance of not blinding oncoming drivers increased. By definition, glare is a harsh, uncomfortably bright light. In the context of our discussion about automotive lighting, glare refers to being subjected to unwanted bright light, typically from another vehicle. An oncoming vehicle’s improperly adjusted lighting system is an excellent example of unwanted glare.

Glare is hazardous as it causes the iris in your eyes to narrow and let in less light. After a vehicle passes you, it takes some time for your iris to open again, making it very difficult to see. Likewise, the bright oncoming light source will drown out darker objects in your peripheral vision. Many advanced driver training courses will suggest that a driver close one eye as a vehicle approaches at night, then open it when the vehicle passes. This process leaves you with one eye ready to see in the dark while the other readjusts. If you’ve seen the movie “Jack Reacher” with Tom Cruise and Robert Duvall, the scene just before the shootout at the mine begins is an example of this technique.

Beam Pattern
If you’ve had to pass a police car at night, their emergency lighting system can be so bright that it’s challenging to see the road.

Modern Automotive Headlight Design

Look at the beam pattern when you drive your car up to a wall or garage door. You’ll quickly realize engineers designed the light to illuminate the road in front of your vehicle without blinding oncoming drivers. What you see will look very different from the flashlight image earlier in this article. Most projector-style headlights have a metal shield between the lens and the reflector that blocks some of the light output. This shield produces a sharp cutoff at the top of the light beam pattern.

Beam Pattern
A close-up of the cutoff shield in a modern projector-style headlight assembly. Image: jlwranglerforums.com user AnnDee444

It’s logical to think that you could use a simple light that’s aimed lower and avoid all the fancy beam-shaping reflectors and shields. The problem with this configuration is that it puts the brightest part of the light, a location called the hot spot, much closer to your vehicle. You don’t want or need much light in the 20 to 60 feet immediately in front of your car or truck. You want most of the light from your headlights focused beyond 300 feet. This configuration will help provide even lighting in front of the vehicle, especially where the cutoff stops illuminating the road.

Beam Pattern
An example of a good headlight beam pattern with a defined cutoff and hot spot.

Driving Beams and High Beams

So far, we’ve only discussed regular low-beam or driving-beam lighting. Switching on your high beams is quite different. The high beams on your vehicle are nearly identical to a flashlight. They project a cone of light that allows you to see much farther down the road. They typically don’t have a cutoff of any kind.

Modern vehicles typically have three different designs for high-beam lighting. Some use secondary light assemblies with dedicated bulbs. Others use a light bulb with two separate filaments. Finally, many projector-style lights have a cutoff that moves out of the way when the high beams are activated. The shield is driven by a small solenoid when the high beams are activated.

Beam Pattern
This BMW has separate light assemblies for regular and high beams.
Beam Pattern
This GMC Sierra pickup truck uses a projector headlight assembly with a moving shutter to switch between low- and high-beam modes.
Beam Pattern
This 9003-style headlight bulb from Sylvania has separate low and high beam filaments.

Analyzing Beam Patterns

We set up a projector assembly from a headlight and loaded three different bulbs into it. We took photos of each bulb to compare the beam patterns and light output. We started with a halogen bulb, switched to HID, and finally to two LED bulbs.

Beam Pattern
The beam pattern picture with an H11 halogen headlight bulb.
Beam Pattern
The beam pattern with a Lumens H11 HID headlight bulb.
Beam Pattern
The beam pattern with a Lumens ATOM LED bulb.
Beam Pattern
The beam pattern with a Lumens Sportline LED bulb.

As a reminder, we’re analyzing beam patterns and not brightness. That said, in our analysis we must consider where the light energy is the brightest.

All images were taken with a Canon 70D camera using an EF-S 10-22mm F/3.5-4.5 USM lens set to its narrowest 22-mm setting. Exposure was 1/80 of a second with an f-stop of 8 and the camera ISO set to 100. No brightness adjustments were made in post-processing, only cropping.

Starting with the halogen bulb, we can see a very bright hot spot in the middle, just to the right of the cutoff. This brightness pattern works well in illuminating objects several hundred feet ahead of the vehicle. The light output to the sides of the hot spot is reasonable. This lateral lighting would help illuminate objects on the sides of the road or as you’re turning a corner. Light output decreases quickly at the bottom of the pattern. This foreground performance helps prevent a bright spot immediately in front of the vehicle.

Moving to the HID bulb, we see a larger diameter hot spot in the middle of the image. This light distribution pattern isn’t as ideal as the halogen bulb. The horizontal performance with the HID is good. You can see some slight unwanted reflections above the cutoff, but they aren’t bad. Finally, the foreground performance looks to be similar to that of the halogen.

Next, we have the ATOM LED bulb in this projector application. This bulb has less of a hot spot, so the light distribution appears relatively even through the illuminated area. One benefit is this LED bulb is that the cutoff is very abrupt. There is little to no light above the cutoff so that oncoming drivers won’t experience as much glare.

Finally, we have the Lumens Sportline bulb. This bulb has a large hot spot in the middle and maintains the sharp cutoff of the ATOM bulb. This bulb puts much more light on the road than the ATOM but is a bit bright in the foreground.

The halogen and HID bulbs significantly outperform the LED bulbs in this application. Keep in mind that this is a specific projector assembly. Further, our research shows that it’s not the highest-quality design available. A differently shaped projector or a reflector-style lighting assembly would likely produce very different results. The takeaway is that your installer needs to experiment with different options to ensure that you get a genuine upgrade for your light bulb investment, not just a different color bulb.

Dangerous Beam Patterns

It’s often difficult to know what to look for in a beam pattern without knowing when something is wrong. Here are some random examples of undesirable headlight beam patterns we found online.

Beam Pattern
Poor light distribution from a BMW 330i. Image: e46fanatics.com user HacksawMark

A quick analysis of the above image shows several issues with the left-side headlight of this BMW 330i. There is a dark spot in the middle of the pattern. The lack of light in the center would dramatically reduce long-distance visibility. There is also too much light at the very bottom of the pattern. Too much light down low illuminates the area immediately in front of the vehicle too much. The result is another reduction in long-distance visibility. The left headlight is also aimed higher than the right. Improper aiming results in blinding oncoming drivers or poor long-distance visibility.

Beam Pattern
An example of a terrible headlight beam pattern. Image: Subaruoutback.org user Wagon_Driver

Based on a quick analysis of the above image, someone has likely installed incorrect bulbs in this Subaru Outback or clocked them incorrectly. There is a poor cutoff, minimal lateral light distribution and far too much light in the foreground. Given the distance to the garage door, we’d also predict that the right-side headlight is aimed much too far to the left. Driving with a lighting system that performs like this could be very dangerous.

Beam Pattern
Improperly aimed headlights. Image: clublexus.com user drmull2

Though the actual light pattern from this 2014 Lexus ES isn’t bad, the headlights need proper aiming. The right headlight is probably aimed too high. The rectangles above the cutoff are intentional and illuminate street signs.

North American and European Lighting Standards

The guidelines for automotive headlights differ significantly between Europe and North America. If you look at the light patterns we’ve shown, there is a clear step in the middle of the pattern. The left side is lower than the right. This pattern provides better road illumination in the front of the vehicle with less chance of blinding an oncoming car or truck. In Europe, rather than a step, the cutoff is at an angle that extends to the edge of the assembly. This pattern illuminates more of the road and increases light to the right-side shoulder. This design would work better to light up road signs.

Beam Pattern
North America and Europe have different automotive headlight cutoff pattern standards.

Proper Forward Lighting Is Crucial to Safe Night Driving

If you’ve changed or upgraded your headlights or are planning to, this article explains the importance of choosing headlight bulbs or light assemblies that work correctly. A high-output bulb in an incorrect application can drastically reduce how well you can see. Work with a specialty mobile enhancement retailer to pick only the best solutions for your application. Improving nighttime visibility may require testing different bulb options in your vehicle. We’ll discuss light color and brightness in our next article.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Lighting, RESOURCE LIBRARY

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