If you’ve browsed any of the online car audio forums or Facebook groups, you’ve inevitably run across someone asking if you have to upgrade the speaker wire in a vehicle to support a new car audio system. Unlike a sure-fire upgrade like new speakers or adding an amplifier, the answers to the benefits and drawbacks of speaker wire upgrades are far more complicated. Please don’t fret; the BestCarAudio.com team is here to lay it out and get to the bottom of things. Let’s talk about speaker wire upgrades.

Will New Speaker Wire Improve My Car Audio System?

If you’ve ever waded into the mire of online high-end audiophile discussions about speaker wire, then you may have heard that better wire will bring out buried details in your listening experience. The anecdotal evidence seems overwhelming, and some have even applied a level of science to their quest for the Holy Grail of listening experiences. While we’d love to have an extra $10,000 around to experiment with a set of Audioquest William Tell Silver 10-foot speaker cables, we don’t have that kind of spare change lying around. Have we heard a difference between different speaker wires? Yes. Is the investment in high-end speaker wire in a car audio system worthwhile? Not really; larger gains can be had from better system calibration or upgrading to lower-distortion speakers. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t have the shop install new speaker wire. You can simply avoid the $1,000-per-foot stuff.

The Mechanics of Speaker Cables

Several factors need to be considered for a standard or even a high-end mobile audio upgrade when choosing which parts need upgrading. Reliability and predictable performance should be first and foremost in the Product Specialist’s mind when designing the system. A car is not a house or apartment. It moves. It vibrates. It gets hot and cold. It’s hard on every component that’s hurtling down the road at 60 miles an hour.

Many high-end home cables use solid conductors to supposedly eliminate “noise” caused by electronics jumping from strand to strand. Even if that were an audible phenomenon, using a solid conductor in a vehicle is a recipe for disaster. All wiring in a car or truck needs to be flexible so that it won’t work-harden because of vibrations or the flexing that takes place as you open and close a door.

If you do a Google search, you’ll find inquiry after inquiry about Ford Explorers, Honda Civics, Dodge Rams and Chevrolet Silverados with wires broken in the harness between the vehicle and the door. Speakers, power locks, power windows, power mirrors and lighting all fail to work because the wires with few strands work-harden and break.

Dedicated Wiring Ensures Predictable Performance

Many shops around the country include running new speaker wire into car or truck doors anytime they are installing a new set of speakers. Aside from the reliability benefits we outlined above, running new wiring ensures that the system will perform as intended. There’s no chance of a wire-color change that may affect speaker polarity. There’s no chance of a door chime or Bluetooth module interfering with the system operation. Having a wire run directly from the amp to the speaker is a guarantee that you’ll get exactly what you expect from the speaker.

Do Speaker Wires Add Resistance?

Let’s talk about speaker wire and electrical power delivery. It’s an indisputable fact that every conductor has some amount of resistance. Given this information, we will lose some amount of our amplifier’s electrical power as heat in the wire. This loss will reduce the output of the system at the speaker. The question is, how much loss is allowable? The CTA-2015 Mobile Electronics Cabling Standard calls for an allowable loss of 1 dB of output over a conductor’s length. Let’s look at a few contributing factors that complicate the criteria required to evaluate the required conductor size.

First, not all speakers in a mobile audio system will need the same amount of power. Your subwoofers will need the most power. It’s not unreasonable to expect a sub to absorb 100 watts of power from your amp for long periods. If your installer has configured the crossovers in your audio system correctly, you may only need 40 or 50 watts to a midrange driver for it to keep with that sub. If you have a three-way system with dedicated amplifier channels for tweeters, then they may see only a few watts of power, even at high output levels.

Since resistance in a cable is relatively constant (unless you get it really hot), let’s look at the power lost in a 12-AWG cable that’s running from a large monoblock amp to a subwoofer. It would seem reasonable that the total length of the wire (considering that there are two conductors) would be around 12 feet in a typical installation. Good quality, all-copper 12-AWG cable has a maximum resistance of 0.00595 ohm per meter or 0.00181 ohm per foot. So, we’d a total have 0.0218 ohm for our 6-foot run. If we assume the subwoofer has a nominal impedance of 2 ohms, and we are averaging 100 watts of power to the system, we’ll see an average of 7.071 amps of current pass through our conductor. Ohm’s law states that we’ll see a power loss of 1.088 watts in the speaker wire and a reduction in the speaker’s output of 0.04 dB. That’s not very much, and certainly nothing to ever worry about.

What if we had a friend help us install the system instead of going to a professional, and we only had some 18-AWG primary wire to hook up our sub? Now we’d be losing 4.37 watts to our wire. Now we are losing 0.194 dB at the speaker. Still not a big deal, or is it?

Where this jumps to life is at high power levels. If you are a bass-head or are competing in SPL competitions, the amount of power your subwoofers will see can increase dramatically. Let’s bump our example up to 1,000 watts and wire the load to an impedance of 1 ohm and see what happens. Now, our 12-AWG cable loses 10.88 watts of energy but less than 0.05 dB of output. That 18-AWG wire, on the other hand, needs to dissipate 43.7 watts of heat. Aside from the fact that the wire is likely to go up in smoke, our system will be down about 0.2 dB, purely from speaker wire losses. For regular Joes like you and me, good 12-AWG wiring on a sub is fine, and 14- or even 16-AWG cable on a midrange speaker won’t present any issues, ever.

Welcome to the Land of Silly Power Levels

Because I know the odd bass-head will read this article, let’s run the math on some of the silly SPL competition subwoofers. To keep things relatively reasonable, we’ll use an example woofer from Digital Designs. Their Z415 15-inch subwoofer has a continuous power handling rating of 6,000 watts and is available with dual 1-ohm voice coils. For a 12-AWG speaker wire, we’d be losing 261 watts of power into heat in the wire. While 261 watts at a level of 6,000 doesn’t represent much signal loss, it does present a serious issue in terms of the wire melting. Oh, if you wanted to try 18-AWG wire, it’d be 1,050 watts. Heh, heh, that’d go bang like a fuse dead-shorted across battery terminals.

As you can see, the issue isn’t about the loss of signal in the wire. At high power levels, the concern is about the wire catching fire. For a run of 8-AWG cable at a level of 6,000 watts into a 0.5-ohm load, there would be 103 watts of heat in the conductors. If you jump to a 4-AWG cable, you get a more-reasonable 40.82 watts of heat. So, bass-head friends, keep those speaker wire runs short and, when you can, bi-wire the subwoofers to reduce the current in each conductor. The system will be a touch more efficient, and there’s less chance that you’ll need the fire extinguisher.

Should I Have the Speaker Wires in My Vehicle Upgraded?

If you’re concerned about getting the most power possible to your midrange speakers and tweeters, speaker wire isn’t a concern at all. If you want a system that will play reliably for many years, having a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer install high-quality speaker wire constructed with lots of strands is a great choice. Likewise, dedicated speaker-wire runs help ensure that the system won’t be affected by door chime or warning modules. Yes, it costs a little more to have these wires run into your doors, but it’s a small price to pay for long-term reliability.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

In the ’70s, owning a van was cool. In the ’80s, Chrysler moved those buyers into its new car-based platform, the minivan, with the Caravan. This compact cargo- and people-friendly vehicle kicked off a trend that’s only recently lost momentum. When it’s time to move a large group of people, or you need the most cargo room possible, companies like Mercedes-Benz, Ford, GMC and RAM offer vans that can easily transport up to 15 passengers. In most cases, these vehicles are spartan in terms of their entertainment and creature comforts. If you want more technology, features or luxury, drop by your local mobile enhancement retailer to see what’s available.

Passenger Van Audio System Enhancements

As fun as a rousing session of “99 Bottles of Beer on the Wall” is, being able to listen to great music while hauling your friends, family or the team across the city or the country can’t be beaten. Most vans come with a pretty rudimentary AM/FM receiver with a CD player. Upgrading to a CD receiver with Bluetooth audio streaming and a USB port that will let you connect a smartphone opens up all sorts of streaming and entertainment options.

If you plan a trip across the country, consider moving to a multimedia receiver with a built-in navigation system or that includes Apple CarPlay and Android Auto smartphone integration. Built-in navigation systems are great for situations where the driver has limited data on their cellphone plan or plans to cross the border into another country. If you have a smartphone with even a moderate amount of data access, CarPlay and Android Auto let you use Google Maps or Waze to get directions to the destination of your choice. The beauty of these phone-based systems is that the map information is always up to date, and both software solutions include real-time traffic flow information to optimize your route. Of course, the driver can send text messages, make phone calls or choose the music he or she wants using the voice recognition capabilities of Siri or Google Assistant.

Of course, anytime you want better sound, upgrading the vehicle speakers is a great idea. Even better, add a small subwoofer and an amplifier to the system so your music will sound realistic and detailed. When your favorite song comes on, the extra power from the amplifier will let you crank it up without any worry about distortion.

Video and Interior Upgrades

If you’re hauling people across the state or province, it might be nice for them to watch a movie during the drive. The simplest solution is to have your local retailer upgrade the headrests with a replacement that includes a DVD player and screen. Depending on the model you choose, these systems include wireless headphones. Alternatively, some solutions allow you to stream the audio from the movie or show through the factory-installed radio using an FM modulator.

Of course, like any platform, some people want to take their entertainment systems to a higher level with a larger screen and more speakers. For many, these upgrades turn into complete interior restyling projects. If a limousine is cool, a limo-van must be even better, right? New seats, new wall and floor treatments, custom storage and, of course, a premium entertainment solution can turn a passenger van into an experience worthy of royalty! At this end of the spectrum, there are no limits to what can be created – it’s merely a matter of asking.

Convenience and Comfort Features

Some van upgrades are more mainstream but offer dramatic improvements in functionality and comfort. From a safety perspective, having a backup camera system on your van is a no-brainer. It’s very difficult to see what’s behind a vehicle this large when parking or maneuvering. If you can’t see out the back window because of storage or entertainment upgrades, several rearview mirror options use a camera on the back of the vehicle. For the ultimate in parking safety, several companies offer surround-view systems that use four cameras to provide a bird’s-eye view of everything around the vehicle.

Other popular upgrades for vans include options like a remote car starter. With a vehicle this large, giving the engine a few extra minutes to cool things off in the summer or to start to warm things up in the winter is a great idea. Car starters are available with a variety of control options. You can choose from one-way or two-way radio frequency remotes that offer as much as 3 miles of range. Several smartphone-based options work with Bluetooth or the cellular network to let you control your vehicle. Many of the cellular systems also offer GPS-based vehicle locating and security features.

A popular upgrade that goes along with a remote starter is the installation of seat heating pads. That’s right – even if your van didn’t come from the factory with this tushy-toasting option, your local mobile enhancement retailer can install heating pads in the bottom and back of the seats to make your vehicle more comfortable. If you have leather or vinyl seats, a seat heating system is a godsend on a cold fall or winter morning.

Many accessories are available to make your van more comfortable and more enjoyable to drive. If the vehicle didn’t come with cruise control, it’s possible to add that so that driving long distances can be more enjoyable. If your van is relatively high off the ground, a set of side steps can make it much easier to get in and out of the vehicle. The top-of-the-line upgrade in this regard is the motorized Amp Research Powersteps. When the doors are closed, these steps are tucked up close to the rocker panel. This design helps to maintain ground clearance and the aerodynamics of the vehicle. As soon as you open a door, the steps fold down to make getting in and out of the vehicle safer and more convenient.

If you use your van for work, then storage is crucial. Dozens of options are available for shelving, cabinets and even custom work surfaces. Your van can be outfitted with a high-power inverter that will allow power tools, computers or communication equipment to be used, just as if you were in a brick-and-mortar office.

Upgrade Your Van for Comfort and Convenience Today!

Whether you need new headlights to help you see farther while driving at night, a new set of speakers that will make your audio system sound amazing or are thinking about a full custom interior with lighting and a video system, specialty mobile enhancement retailers across the country can help. No wish is too big or too small.

Lead-In Image courtesy of Brandon Shuler from Driving Enhanced Solutions of Wilmington, North Carolina. This Mercedes-Benz Sprinter includes custom seating with built-in cooling, wood flooring and LED lighting. Of course, the audio system was upgraded, and there’s an electric cooler in the center console to keep beverages ready on a hot day. The van’s exterior includes an Aries bull bar with LED lighting and a roof platform with a ladder.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Adding a subwoofer to your car audio system is a great way to improve the quality and accuracy of the music you hear. As we’ve explained many times, sending bass information to a dedicated amplifier and a larger speaker alleviates the need for the small speakers in your vehicle to work hard trying to reproduce low-frequency information. The result is that the smaller ones sound better and can play louder, and the dedicated subwoofer will play those low notes with authority. Thousands of options are available for adding a subwoofer system to your vehicle. Let’s take a look at a few criteria you should consider before visiting your local specialty mobile enhancement retailer.

How Much Bass Is Enough?

The most difficult part of choosing a subwoofer system for your car or truck is deciding how much bass you need. Will an 8-inch driver in a small enclosure behind the seat of a pickup truck satisfy your needs, or do you need a custom system build with a pair of 12-inch subwoofers in a bass-reflex design? The best way to decide this is to listen to examples of each solution. If you have a friend with an upgraded stereo in a similar vehicle, decide whether their solution gets loud enough and plays low enough. If you can provide your product specialist with some feedback, they can help you narrow down your choices.

Depending on the shop you’re dealing with, they may have a demo vehicle or two that you can listen to. Auditioning a shop vehicle is a great opportunity to hear how a properly configured subwoofer should sound.

It’s crucial to be forthcoming about your expectations. The cost and complexity of a subwoofer that will “warm up your music” is very different than one that can shake the rear view mirror off your windshield. If you don’t ask for what you want, well, you won’t be happy with the results.

How Much Room Can You Spare?

All subwoofers require that you dedicate some amount of space to the amplifier and enclosure. If you have an SUV and need to haul supplies for work, or gear for a sports team, then a large custom cabinet might not be a wise choice. In terms of options, compact all-in-one powered subwoofer systems will fit under a seat. These solutions are a nice upgrade to a factory-installed audio system or one that is running from the power amp built into a radio.

The next step up in terms of performance are compact enclosures designed to fit behind the seat of a pickup truck or in the corner of an SUV. Several companies offer vehicle-specific enclosures that fit under the seat or against the back wall of a pickup truck, in a center console or in the corner of the cargo area in your vehicle. Finally, generic enclosures are available for the back of an SUV or the trunk of your car. Finally, the options for a custom upgrade are nearly limitless. You can have your local car audio upgrade specialist design and build a solution that’s subtle, or crazy if you want to show it off to friends.

Powered Under-Seat Subwoofers

The least expensive subwoofer upgrade solution is to pick an all-in-one package that includes both an amplifier and the subwoofer, along with an appropriate enclosure. Most of these systems include some sort of remote level control that makes it easy for the driver to adjust the level of the sub relative to that of the other speakers in the vehicle. These enclosures will fit under the seat of many cars and most SUVs. While most are generic, companies like Alpine have developed surprisingly affordable vehicle-specific solutions.

Compact Powered Enclosures

The limiting factor on the under-seat enclosures is their output capability and low-frequency extension. If you want bass that you can really feel, then you’ll likely want to choose something with a larger enclosure and driver, and a more powerful amplifier. Most of these solutions are designed by the manufacturers to use one of their a-la-carte subwoofers and are combined with a dedicated amplifier in the 250+ watt range.

Vehicle-Specific Enclosures

Though they can cost a little more, choosing a vehicle-specific subwoofer system will typically increase the maximum output capability and low-frequency extension even further. Most of these enclosures use 8-, 10- or 12-inch drivers and are made from injection-molded plastic or fiberglass that’s contoured to fit the desired vehicle perfectly. Some of these systems include amplifiers, but most require an external amp. As important as choosing a good subwoofer is, the amplifier you choose should be equally impressive in terms of its efficiency, power production capabilities and sound quality.

Full-Size Subwoofer Enclosures

If you are looking for a way to rattle your fillings, then choosing a full-size subwoofer solution is a great choice. Options are available from a single 8-inch driver to a quartet of 12-inch subs, each designed to suit a different client in terms of output capability. You’ll want to pair an appropriate amp to this enclosure. Subwoofer amplifiers are available in power ratings from a couple hundred watts to well into the thousands. A word of advice: Be wary of those “too good to be true” deals that seem to offer significant power and rock-bottom prices. Often, these amplifiers use inexpensive components that won’t stand the test of time. Likewise, they are rarely designed to take the radio-frequency noise they produce into consideration. If you have a new amplifier installed and run into radio reception problems, RF noise is the issue.

What Else Does Your Subwoofer Upgrade Need?

Your installer is going to need power wire to connect your amplifier to the battery in your vehicle. Once again, we highly recommend shopping for the best quality solution, as opposed to one that offers the best price. Many companies package undersized conductors in a thick jacket to make unsuspecting consumers think they’re getting a great deal. Avoid amp kits and wire that use the word “gauge” to specify the wire size instead of AWG. You will likely get the best performance with all-copper conductors sized using the American wire gauge (AWG) standard.

Depending on whether you have the factory radio in your vehicle or are upgrading the radio that came from the factory, your invoice will include interconnect cables or a line-level interface (often called a line-output converter). Again, better-quality solutions offer better performance. Twisted-pair interconnects that include proper shielding will help keep noise out of your audio system. For interfaces, the technician working on your vehicle may need to measure the output voltage of the radio or factory-installed amplifier in your vehicle before an appropriate solution can be recommended.

Have a Budget in Mind Before You Shop

Of course, you’re going to need to come up with a target budget to buy the product(s) you want and then have them integrated into your vehicle. Figure on spending at least $300 for a powered under-seat solution, and at least a couple of hours, plus wiring and parts, to have it installed. Many shops will have bundled subwoofer packages available, especially around the holiday season. These packages typically include subwoofers, an enclosure, an amplifier and a wiring/installation kit. Some of these offer an impressive balance of performance and value.

Upgrade Your Vehicle with a Subwoofer Today!

If you want to make a dramatic improvement to your music listening experience, drop by your local specialty mobile enhancement retailer today and ask about the options they have available to add bass to your car or truck.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

In the past, we’ve looked at Class AB and Class D amplifier classes, the two most popular configurations in the mobile electronics industry. With that said, a few other classes deserve some explanation, as they can deliver improvements in amplifier efficiency without altering the sound quality. This article will review Class AB and Class D and then talk about G and H designs. We’ll also dispel some myths about device topology and how these amplifiers work.

How Does the Amp Output Stage Work?

Before we talk about output device configurations, we need to explain how the output stage of an amplifier works. When your installer connects a speaker to an amplifier, they expect a voltage proportional to the input signal to be supplied. The amplifier power supply determines the maximum voltage that can be provided to the speaker and the impedance of the speaker determines how much current will flow. Our limits are the voltage of the power supply and its current delivery capabilities.

Almost every amplifier uses what’s known as a Class B output device configuration in car audio systems. This circuit design uses two switching devices (transistors or MOSFETS) to alternate between the amp’s positive and negative voltage supplies. When both are off, no voltage is supplied to the signal. When the positive device is on, a positive voltage is supplied to the speaker, and it moves outward. When the negative device is on, the speaker moves inward. The level of our audio signal determines how “on” each device is. This configuration is often referred to as a push-pull design.

Class AB Car Audio Amplifiers

A Class AB amplifier is a Class B amp adjusted to make the transition between the positive and negative switching devices smooth and effectively distortion-free. Most amplifiers switch from one device to the other with as little overlap as possible so the amplifier can be as efficient as possible.

A few high-end amplifiers allow both devices to overlap their operation a little more than normal to ensure that the transition is even smoother and less crossover distortion is created. This configuration reduces distortion at the expense of increasing how much current the amp draws. When appropriately executed, the results can be quite astonishing. The ARC Audio SE-Series and D’Amore Engineering A-Series amplifiers are great examples of these high-bias designs.

For a more scientific look at how A, B and AB stages are configured, check out this BestCarAudio.com article.

Class G and Class H Amplifiers

A few companies that truly understand what genuine enthusiasts expect from a high-end car audio amplifier have implemented what are known as Class G and Class H designs. Unlike Class B, G and H don’t refer to an output device configuration at all. G and H are different methods of adjusting the power supply’s output to improve an amplifier’s efficiency. As such, Class G and Class H amplifiers are subsets of a Class B amp.

The power supply may be configured in a Class G amplifier to deliver two more output voltages. The amp operates typically at a lower-than-maximum rail voltage so that less heat is generated in the output devices. When you crank up the music, the amp will dynamically switch the power supply output to a high-voltage mode, so the output signal doesn’t get clipped. Some amps’ switching is based on average power level requirements, and others can change based on the audio signal’s immediate needs. A Class G amplifier’s output devices are configured in a standard Class B topology and, with proper biasing, deliver the same amazing sound quality.

Class H amplifiers are very similar to Class G, except that the power supply voltage tracks the audio waveform at high output levels. So, rather than low- and high-voltage modes, the voltage is variable. This configuration offers further improvement in amp efficiency of Class G with the same sound quality as B.

Class D Amplifiers Deliver Efficiency

A Class D amplifier still uses the same Class B output device configuration, with separate positive and negative switching devices. Where it differs is in how the devices are driven. The analog audio waveform is processed by a controller IC into a series of pulses with different widths. The pulses switch the positive or negative output devices all the way on or off very quickly. A large filter network between the output devices and the speaker smooths these pulses to recreate the original analog waveform.

The efficiency benefit comes from the output devices acting as switches rather than resistors. With little time being partially on or off, very little heat is generated.

Modern Class D driver ICs operate at impressively high frequencies. Some run as fast as 600 kHz, so delivering good high-frequency audio performance is less of an issue than for amplifiers designed a few decades ago. These same ICs include low-voltage operation features to help amplifiers work in vehicles with stop-start electrical systems.

It’s All About Amplifier Efficiency

These days, installers want the smallest and most efficient amplifiers they can find. These criteria make installations more manageable. For those who are genuinely passionate about their listening experience, the larger amplifiers with Class AB output stages still deliver the best performance. If you’re shopping for an amplifier for your car audio system, drop by your local specialty mobile enhancement retailer and ask them about the amplifier classes they offer. Based on your vehicle, power needs and performance expectations, they’ll help you choose a solution that will ensure that the music you listen to sounds great!

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

We all know that having sound deadening installed in your car or truck is a great way to improve its comfort while allowing your stereo upgrades to sound better. In this article, we’ll look at some of the strategies for adding sound deadening. We’ll talk about different areas of the vehicle and the benefits associated with treating those surfaces. Based on this, you can decide how to get as much value and performance from a damping material investment.

Why Add Sound Deadening

Sound deadening comes in several solutions. For this article, we will focus on what’s known as constrained-layer damping (CLD). In short, these are sheets of dense butyl rubber that are bonded to a flexible layer of aluminum. The CLD is intended to be applied to your vehicle’s metal panels to add mass and reduce the panels’ ability to vibrate and transmit sound from outside the car or truck to the interior.

Sound deadening can be applied to almost any surface to help prevent noise from the engine, exhaust, transmission, tires or wind from getting into the vehicle.

Some damping materials like SoundShield add a layer of closed-cell foam to the aluminum layer for additional energy absorption. This foam also reduces the chances of wiring harnesses or door actuator rods from rattling and making noise as you drive.

Sound Deadening Car Doors

One of the most dramatic upgrades you can make to your vehicle’s comfort is to have the doors treated with sound deadening. Here, two approaches offer different benefits. The outer door skin, the one you see when you look at your car or truck from outside the vehicle, is a large and relatively flat surface. If you tap on it, you can feel that the metal is somewhat flimsy. Having damping material added to the back of this panel will dramatically reduce noise transfer. Since you sit close to the door, the results are quite noticeable.

The second surface that can benefit from deadening is the inner door skin. This is the metal you’d see when the technician working on your car or truck removes the plastic trim panel from the interior side. This is another large surface and is often very flat.

Aside from keeping road noise out of the interior, sealing the door skin can have a dramatic effect on the performance of a door-mounted speaker. Typically, large openings in the metal allow access to the window regulator (the mechanism that raises and lowers the window), the door handle and the latch parts. Left open, the sound coming from the back of the speaker will mix with the sound coming from the front and cancel. Sealing these openings will dramatically improve lower midrange and bass performance from the audio system. This increase in output means your technician can reduce the power sent to the speaker so it will last longer. Likewise, a reduction in how hard a woofer has to work will reduce distortion and improve clarity.

Floor and Firewall Deadening

Modern vehicles are designed using computers to deliver a balance of strength and weight to make the vehicle drive well. Most automakers work hard to save every ounce so that fuel economy is optimized. You’d be surprised how much noise from the engine and transmission comes into the vehicle through the firewall and floor. Of course, the answer is to have these surfaces treated with high-quality deadening material. The process does require some significant work to remove the center console, seats and carpet, but it’s well worth the investment.

Pickup Truck Noise Control

The back wall of a pickup truck is another surface that can transmit a lot of sound energy into a vehicle. Though it’s blocked from wind noise, it still transmits drivetrain, exhaust and tire noise. Treating the back wall is a great way to improve the comfort of these vehicles.

Sound Deaden Your Vehicle’s Roof

Easily the biggest and probably the flattest panel in a vehicle is the roof. Whether you have a short-cab pickup or an SUV with 40 square feet of metal, wind noise will transfer into the vehicle through this flat surface. Having the roof liner removed can take some time, but the effort is worth the expense to improve your vehicle’s background noise level. With microphones for Bluetooth hands-free systems typically installed up high in the car, cutting down on noise will dramatically enhance an outgoing phone call’s clarity.

Trunk and Cargo Area Sound Control

If you have a car with a trunk, especially if you are having subwoofers installed there, controlling panel vibration and rattles will make a huge improvement to the performance of your audio system. Likewise, road noise and sound energy from the exhaust system will be reduced by treating the floor, fenders and hatch or trunk lid.

Picking the Right Deadening Material

As you can see, different areas of the vehicle need to be upgraded for different reasons and with different results. What remains constant, no matter where your technician is working, is the need to use high-quality materials. On surfaces that are vertical or where the deadening will be installed upside-down, proper surface preparation is paramount, and using a product with excellent adhesion qualities is a must. Avoid deadening that is bitumen- or asphalt-based as they can soften and come loose in high-heat conditions.

You’ll want to choose a shop and technician with the experience and training to remove the interior components of your vehicle in a way that prevents any potential damage and ensures that the vehicle can be reassembled properly once the work is complete. The last thing you want is to have clips or brackets that are loose, resulting in more noise added to the interior as you drive.

Having sound deadening installed in your car or truck is one of the best upgrades you can make to the vehicle’s comfort and your audio system’s clarity. Reducing background noise will make the subtleties of your music easier to discern. Likewise, if you have a hands-free Bluetooth system, the outgoing audio quality will be clearer. Drop by your local specialty mobile enhancement retailer today to inquire about having sound deadening installed in your car or truck.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.