Custom car audio installations have changed a great deal over the years. More often than not, custom installations from years ago often looked like ‘bolted-on’ additions to a vehicle. Modern systems blend seamlessly with your interior. Advances in construction techniques allow your installer to create complex multi-dimensional shapes that look like they came from the vehicle assembly line. Read on as we contrast the materials and designs of the past with what is currently available.

Source Units

If you look at a custom installation more than about five years old, the trademark was an aftermarket source unit in the dash. Working backward chronologically, we saw Double-DIN navigation systems, flip-up multimedia receivers, detachable face CD receivers and pull-out cassette decks with CD changers. The quality and features of factory radios just could not match what the aftermarket had to offer.

As companies like Ford spearheaded the move towards integrated infotainment solutions like Ford Sync, vehicle manufacturers increased their emphasis on providing clients with more features and better performance. Navigation, USB support for MP3 and WMA files, iPhone control and backup camera systems are now common in even the most basic of vehicles.

Modern source units have become a central control system for vehicle functions such as heating and cooling adjustments. They also have become vehicle information displays for things like tire pressure monitoring. In the past, the radio was a single component that performed a single task. Now, they are an integral part of the car, and no longer an option that can be replaced easily. Many modern vehicles use distributed multimedia systems that cannot be replaced at all.

How do we upgrade the sound system? Your mobile electronics specialist retailer is armed with several integration solutions that work with your factory source unit. These products allow for the installation of high-power amplifiers, signal processors and speaker upgrades to dramatically improve the performance of the system. Vehicle manufacturers rarely invest in high-quality speakers, so there is ample opportunity to improve even premium-branded OEM sound systems.

Cosmetic Integration

Another telltale sign of an old-school, high-end sound system were custom door panels. A set of aftermarket components mounted to an adapter plate or panel on top of the factory door skin was common. A premium installation may have a custom cloth-covered grill over the speaker instead of the mesh grill provided by the manufacturer.

Modern sound system upgrades are often nearly invisible. With the increase in available speaker mounting depth afforded by complex contoured door panel designs, high-end component speakers can be installed behind factory grills on custom adapter plates. Once the door is back together, there is no sign of the upgrade. Add in some sound deadening and speaker coupling rings, and the performance of your new sound system will increase by another order of magnitude.

Depending on the design of the vehicle, the tweeters from the new component set may fit into the factory location with little to no modification. In cases where the factory tweeter is in a location that doesn’t provide optimum placement, your installer can fabricate a compact tweeter pod for the sail panel or mount them in the A-pillar. Either way, the result is cosmetically inconspicuous while offering excellent performance.

Subwoofer Enclosures

It used to be that having a subwoofer in your vehicle meant sacrificing a significant amount of storage area in the hatch or trunk of your vehicle. A pair of ten- or twelve-inch subwoofers in a large vented enclosure took up take up a large amount of space. While the underlying philosophy of how speakers work has not changed in decades, modern subwoofer designs produce excellent low-frequency output from extremely compact enclosures. Enclosures concealed in spare tire wells or into the corner of a hatch take up little to no cargo space while providing excellent low-frequency performance.

Pickup trucks are a popular platform for upgrades. There are now dozens of subwoofers on the market that feature basket and motor designs that allow for under-seat enclosures. A pair of ten-inch subwoofers under the rear seat of a Sierra, Silverado, F-150 or Ram is a daily occurrence.

Materials and Cosmetics

If you look back through car audio magazines from the 90’s, you would be assaulted with amplifier and processor racks finished in tweed and trunk liner carpet. For a custom show-car installation, high-gloss painted fiberglass was popular. Looking back, these installations rarely matched the styling cues and materials that came from the factory. Instead, they seemed to contrast them deliberately. There are always exceptions, but from a stereotypical perspective, divergence appeared to be the name of the game.

Modern installations use vinyl that matches the factory materials for color and often for grain. Acrylic plastic inserts replicate factory styling accents. Where new grills need to be created, installers are now including multi-dimensional contours to give the panel more depth and elegance. Many installations feature painted dash or center console inserts for DSPs and radar detector control panels that match other styling cues correctly. Trunk installations are trimmed nicely so the subwoofer enclosure looks integrated rather than something dropped in back of a vehicle. Chrome inserts, accent lines and the use of several complementary materials can turn what was an all-black carpeted trunk into a creative and highlighted part of the system. But it will still look like it is a cosmetically-integrated part of the vehicle.

The highest praise for most installers is to hear that the audio system they installed sounds exceptional, and that it looks like it was a factory-installed option!

System Design and Equipment

The proliferation of reasonably priced digital signal processors has changed the way car audio systems are designed. In days gone by, a mid-level sound system upgrade may have included a four-channel amplifier, a subwoofer amplifier, a set of component speakers for the front doors, a set of coaxial speakers for the rear doors and a subwoofer. Now, rear speaker upgrades are often forsaken in favor of a DSP processor and active filtering on the front stage speakers.

The benefits of a fully active system are dramatic. Your installer has full control over the crossover frequencies and output levels for each speaker. He can equalize and adjust the signal delay to the left and right speakers to create a focused and stable soundstage across the dash of the vehicle. Your music will sound more natural and realistic. Many new system amplifiers include built-in digital signal processors to allow for a fully active three-way system installation using a single chassis. Some of these amplifiers are small enough to fit under a seat to save space.

Upgrade your Sound System for Better Performance

A lot has changed regarding car audio system design, equipment choices and vehicle integration. You can enjoy recording studio or concert-like performance from a system upgrade that is nearly invisible. If you were a fan of car audio systems years ago, then it is worth visiting your local mobile electronics specialist retailer today. You will be able to experience the latest products and installation techniques in person.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Upgrading a factory audio system is not as easy as it used to be. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, connecting an amplifier and a new set of speakers to a factory source unit would yield impressive, if not amazing, results. As automobile manufacturers put more focus on the performance of factory-installed sound systems, digital signal processing (DSP) became more and more prevalent. Equalization and signal delay built into factory source units and amplifiers allow inexpensive speakers to sound acceptable. This tuning works well for such speakers, but not for a set of premium aftermarket speakers. In the past few years, it has become common practice for reputable mobile electronics retailers to perform a series of oem sound system measurements in a vehicle we haven’t worked on before to ensure we understand how the factory entertainment system functions. The results of the measurements will determine the best path to upgrading the performance of the audio system.

Measure Twice, Cut Once

What do we measure, you ask? We need to quantify three items before a system upgrade can be discussed.

The first is frequency response. We need to know if the signal coming from the factory radio or amplifier has been equalized or filtered in any way. Equalization can help improve the performance of inexpensive speakers and compensate for the acoustic characteristics of your vehicle.

The second is voltage. If you have a high-power factory amplifier, then the interface we choose for your system has to be able to handle all of the voltage the amp can produce. Not knowing how much voltage is present in the speaker wires can lead to a system design that distorts at high volumes. This distortion will damage speakers.

The last thing our shop will want to analyze is the type of signal present. In most cases, the output of the amplifier is a BTL (Bridge-Tied Load), though some are single-ended. There is no right or wrong type of signal, but the information is required to ensure that they will use the appropriate interface solution or amplifier.

Depending on the vehicle and complexity of the factory sound system, we may have to complete several other tests. Signal routing tests are critical, especially if there is a center channel in the vehicle. Chimes, navigation prompts, parking sensors, up-mixers, active noise cancellation and systems that inject “engine noises” into the audio path have to be taken into account before the system design is complete.

What if We Do Not Measure Your System?

Imagine that you want to improve the sound in your audio system. You go to a car stereo shop and buy an amp and a set of speakers, determined to install them yourself to save some money. Even worse, you want to try to save a few more bucks, so you buy the equipment online and have it shipped to your house. Saturday rolls around, and you tear into your vehicle. You run wires to the battery and try to connect to the factory amp. After an hour or two in forums or Facebook groups, you think you have finally connected to the right wires. When you turn the system on, it sounds dull and lifeless.

What happened?

Many factory amplifiers have dedicated outputs for tweeters and midrange drivers. Connecting to one or the other limits how much information goes to your new speakers. Working with an experienced mobile electronics retailer helps you eliminate situations like these. A retailer that doesn’t already have the information can measure the response of each channel of the factory source unit or amplifier and provide a way to manage work with that information.

A more-typical result is that the high-frequency output from the new speakers is overwhelming. Many factory audio systems use a woofer in the door and a small midrange in the dash. These tweeterless factory systems require a moderate amount of high-frequency emphasis to sound acceptable. When you add a tweeter that can do a good job of reproducing these frequencies, the boost inherent to the system becomes overwhelming. You may be able to turn down the treble control on the radio, but it’s likely that the adjustment only compensates for the highest of frequencies, leaving you with an annoying frequency response bump around 4 or 5 kHz.

What We Do with the OEM Sound System Measurements

After the measurements are complete, our shop can recommend a solution to help ensure the success of your new system. If you luck out and have a simple factory source unit, you may only need a voltage adapter, commonly called a line output converter, to send an appropriate signal to your amplifier.

If a large amount of equalization is present from the factory amplifier, then an equalizer or digital signal processor may be adequate to compensate for the factory tuning. A calibrated microphone and audio analysis equipment is required to set up the new system. These devices are expensive, and it takes time to learn how to use them correctly to achieve acceptable results.

If you have a factory amplifier that includes crossovers or time alignment, then your interface options narrow. Several system integration processors on the market can automatically undo equalization and time alignment, then recombine signals from the subwoofer, midbass, midrange and tweeter outputs. There are also integration modules that will replace your factory amplifier and provide connections that will feed a signal directly to your new amplifier. Unfortunately for the Do-It-Yourselfer, these amplifier replacement modules need to be programmed for the year, make, model and trim level of your vehicle. This configuration process is not something that you can do at home.

Inquiring Minds Want to Know

Performing OEM system measurements are like preparing to have a cavity filled. Before your dentist starts grinding or drilling, he or she will take a series of X-rays so that they know exactly what they are dealing with. The same philosophy applies to constructing a subwoofer enclosure. You’d never see someone start cutting wood without having measured the car accurately.

When it is time to upgrade your factory audio system, visit your local mobile electronics specialist retailer. Ask if they know how your factory audio system is configured in terms of signal processing. If they don’t know, find out whether they have the equipment to measure the factory audio signals in your vehicle. Once you are comfortable with their level of expertise, you can enjoy the process of designing a fantastic sound system for your vehicle. You will be thrilled with the results!

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

The adage that someone could write a book about a subject certainly holds true when it comes to a discussion of loudspeakers and their parameters. In fact, there are dozens of great books already available about the subject. This article provides an overview of some of the most commonly discussed speaker parameters.

What are Speaker Parameters?

Speaker parameters, often called Thiele/Small parameters, are a set of electromechanical measurements that can be used to define the low-frequency performance of a transducer. Using these parameters and a series of calculations, your installer can predict the performance of that speaker in an enclosure.

What Can We Determine from these Parameters?

Perhaps the most important set of calculations we can create is the output of the system. When we discuss the “system,” we are referring to the speaker itself and the enclosure in which we intend to install the speaker. Every speaker enclosure acts as a high-pass filter and reduces the low-frequency output of the driver. We gain physical power handling in return for this diminished output. Using a set of calculations, we can predict how much low-frequency information the system will produce.

Another important calculation is power handling. As mentioned, we need to control the movement of the speaker cone to prevent distortion and damage. We can predict how much the cone will move for a given amount of power in our test enclosure.

Resonant Frequency of the Speaker – Fs

In terms of analyzing the moving parts of the speaker, we need to know the frequency at which the compliance (springiness) of the spider and the surround combine with the mass of the cone and dust cap to store the most energy. At this frequency, the system alternately stores and subsequently releases the most energy for a given voltage input. If you were to swing a weight on a string suspended from the ceiling, the natural frequency at which it oscillates back and force would be equal to the resonant frequency of a loudspeaker.

Equivalent Compliance Volume – Vas

To understand how stiff the spider and the surround are, we compare them to an amount of air that would exert the same resistance to motion. Because air is easily compressed, a high Vas specification would represent a very softly suspended cone. Conversely, a speaker with a low Vas would have a very stiff suspension.

Electrical Q of the Driver at Fs – Qes

Understanding the Q (Quality Factor) can be somewhat difficult because it is a dimension-less value. In essence, the Q factor describes the damping characteristic of a resonant system. A higher Q represents less energy loss relative to the total energy stored in a system. A pendulum suspended from a low-friction bearing will have a high Q. That same pendulum, submerged in water, will have a much lower Q. An important consideration is that high-Q systems have less damping and, therefore, vibrate longer. The Electrical Q specification describes how much damping the voice coil and magnet assembly invoke on the moving cone.

As the voice coil moves past the magnet, it produces an electrical current. This current reaches its peak value at the resonant frequency of the driver and counteracts the current being provided by the amplifier. The net result is a significant rise in impedance at the resonant frequency.

Mechanical Q of the Driver at Fs – Qms

Just as the electrical characteristics of a speaker cause an opposition to cone motion, we have a similar effect from the mechanical properties of the speaker. Qms describes the mechanical losses resulting from the spider and the surround. A high Qms value describes lower mechanical losses, while a low Qms value describes higher losses.

Total System Q at Fs – Qts

This unit-less measurement is a mathematical combination of the mechanical and electrical characteristics of the speaker. In simple terms, we calculate Qts by dividing the total stored energy of the speaker by the dissipated energy in the speaker at resonance.

Compliance of the Driver Suspension – Cms

The Cms specification describes the stiffness of the driver suspension in meters per newton. A stiffer suspension will move less distance for a given amount of force applied to it.

Effective Cone Area of the Driver – Sd

This parameter describes the effective “size” of our speaker. We all realize that the cone will move air for us, but we also have to take into account the addition of the surround. It is commonly accepted that we can use a value of half the surround as contributing to the output of the driver.

Mass of the Cone and Moving Parts – Mms

The Mms specification describes the mass of the speaker cone and part of the spider and surround. Unlike the Mmd specification, Mms includes the acoustic load caused by the air in contact with the cone. In most cases, the values are similar, but as the surface area of the cone increases, so too does the value of Mms, relative to Mmd.

Maximum Excursion Level – Xmax

This parameter is frequently misinterpreted as being the defining factor in the distance a speaker cone can move. Early calculations used a formula that subtracted the height of the voice coil winding from the height of the magnetic gap, then divided by 2. This calculation describes how far the speaker can move before the winding comes out of the gap.

Subsequent investigation shows that non-linear behavior elsewhere in the driver design could have a larger influence on the motion limits of the cone. This suggests that Xmax should be the one-way excursion distance that represents a distortion level of 10%. This performance-oriented specification is far more indicative of the useful operating range of a driver, but is much harder to ascertain.

Additional Parameters

In this article, we only describe the basic parameters that are commonly used in predicting the low-frequency performance of a loudspeaker. Other parameters, such as inductance, become more relevant at higher frequencies. Addition parameters such as Nominal Impedance (Znom), efficiency, sensitivity and the Efficiency Bandwidth Product (EBF) are derived through equations that use the specifications above.

Proper Design Requires Simulation

A woofer in an over-sized enclosure may bottom out and be damaged easily. A midrange driver crammed into a small speaker pod may have a significant frequency response spike and an associated distortion peak. The result is quite unfavorable.

Before you assume a subwoofer or speaker is suitable for the enclosure or mounting location you have chosen, it is worth asking your mobile electronics retailer to perform a simulation to ensure everything will function the way you want. They can work with you to ensure everything will perform optimally, and your system will sound great!

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Your automotive battery is one of the most important, and most often overlooked, electrical components in your vehicle. If your battery is not in good condition, you can be stranded, and other components in your vehicle may be damaged. This article discusses how batteries work and how to take care of them.

What is Inside an Automotive Battery?

Inside a typical car battery are six smaller energy-producing components called cells. Each cell contains a series of electrodes or plates. The positive plate of the battery is lead [eroxide (PbO2). The negative plates of the battery are pure lead in a soft, sponge-like state. The plates within each cell are arranged in alternating layers for a total of 16 components. All of the positive plates in a cell are wired in parallel, as are all of the negative plates.

Each cell produces roughly 2 volts of electricity. The six individual cells are wired in series with one another so the voltage generated by each cell adds together. The result is 12 volts.

Are You Ready for the Chemistry?

A diluted solution of sulfuric acid (H2SO4) surrounds the plates. The ratio of acid to water (H2O) is typically in the region of three parts of water to one part of acid.

When we connect a load to the external terminals of the battery, a chemical reaction starts to take place. Our diluted sulfuric acid mixture comprises H2SO4 and water (H20). As the reaction commences, the sulfuric acid splits into positive hydrogen ions (2H) and negative sulfate Ions (SO4).

When the hydrogen ions reach the lead peroxide plate, they absorb electronics from it and become a hydrogen atom. This process attacks the lead peroxide to produce lead oxide (PbO) and water (H2O). The lead oxide reacts with the sulfuric acid to form lead sulfate (Pb SO4) and water (H2O).

Negative sulfate ions move freely within the solution. As they reach the pure lead plate, they give up their extra electron and become what is known as a radical sulfate. As a radical sulfate cannot exist on its own, it will attack the pure lead plate to produce lead sulfate (PbSO4).

The action of positive hydrogen ions taking electrons from the lead peroxide plate, and the negative sulfate ions giving electrons to the pure lead plate produce an electron imbalance. These electrons flow through the external load to try and balance themselves. This process is how the battery provides power to our load (light, amplifier, heater or computer).

The Chemistry behind Battery Charging

When we apply an external DC source to the battery, we reverse the process. An external DC source such as an alternator or a battery charger feeds electrons to our positive lead sulfate-covered lead peroxide plate and the negative lead peroxide-covered lead plate. During the charging process, the density of the sulfuric acid solution falls, but we still have positive hydrogen ions and negative sulfate ions.

The positively charged hydrogen Ions more toward the negative terminal of the external DC source. Each hydrogen ion takes one electron from the negative plate to become a hydrogen atom. These hydrogen atoms attack the lead sulfate to produce lead and sulfuric acid.

The negative sulfate ions move toward the positively charged plate. When they get there, they give up their extra electron to become radical sulfates. This radical sulfate reacts with the lead sulfate, and forms lead peroxide and sulfuric acid.

We Can Simplify that a Lot!

In a nutshell, the negative terminal of a lead-acid battery has an over-abundance of electrons. When you connect a load to the battery, the electrons scramble through the load to get to the positive terminal. This electron flow is what allows the battery to provide energy to do work.

When we apply a voltage to the battery that is higher than its resting voltage the electron flow reverses. The sulfate layers on the plates are converted back to lead and sulfuric acid.

Battery Charging: Calm Down – What’s the Rush?

About the worst thing you can do to a car battery is to rush the charging process. If you rush the recharging chemical reaction, the lead sulfate will heat up and adhere permanently to the lead and lead peroxide plates. Once it is stuck there, we can no longer use that area of the plate to flow electrons, and we have reduced the effective size of the battery.

You probably have heard the expression “a battery is never the same after it has been killed.” This statement is very true if the battery is not charged gently and thoroughly.

When you want to recharge your battery properly, keeping the process slow will allow the chemical reaction to take place at a controlled rate. If you are using a high-quality, computer-controlled charger (and you should be!) there are two major charging stages. The first stage is called bulk charging. The charger will maintain a constant current flow to the battery by adjusting the applied voltage.

How do you know if you are charging a care battery too quickly? Standard flooded batteries should not exceed roughly 120 degrees Fahrenheit during charging. We suggest that slower and cooler is always better. An absorbed glass mat (AGM) or gel battery should not exceed 100 degrees.

Once approximately 80% of the used energy has been returned to the battery, the charger will switch to the absorption stage. At that stage, the charger provides a constant voltage to the battery and the current flow diminishes as the battery reaches full charge.

How to Calculate Maximum Battery Charging Rates

A relatively large car battery may have a capacity of 70 or 80 amp-hours. This specification means that under ideal conditions, you can draw 1 amp of current from the battery for 70 or 80 hours. After that time, the battery will be considered dead.

To find the ideal charging rate for our 70 amp-hour battery, we divide this specification by 10 to get seven amps. The battery should be able to accept 7 amps of charging current without overheating. It is worth noting that, if the battery is completely discharged, it will take 10 hours to charge it. Remember, slower is better when it comes to charging batteries.

Taking Care of Your Car Battery

Some of us who are more fanatical about the care and maintenance of our car batteries will connect them to intelligent battery chargers several times a year. One rule of thumb is to charge your battery fully after each oil change, or four times a year. You should increase this frequency if you make short trips that do not provide adequate charging time. Likewise, time spent playing your audio system with the engine off can drain a battery very quickly. If you have been out with friends and your car battery has been depleted, put it on a high-quality charger overnight.

If you can access the acid solution in your battery, ensure that it is at the proper level, or at the very least, is covering the lead plates completely. A hydrometer should be used to confirm the specific gravity of the solution, but if it is low, adding distilled water is better than doing nothing. That little green “eye” included in some batteries is a hydrometer. When it disappears, the chemical balance within the battery is off and it needs to be charged.

Your local mobile electronics retailer may have a battery load tester that they use before every remote car starter they install. If you are concerned about the condition of your battery, ask them to check it. Being stranded due to a dead battery when the temperatures get cold is frustrating if you are trying to get home or to work.

Ensure the battery terminals and connections to your vehicle are clean and secure at all times. A loose connection can have a dramatic adverse effect on the functionality of your electrical system.

If you need a new battery, check with your local mobile enhancement retailer first. They often have extensive experience in upgrading batteries and can help you choose a solution that will ensure your car is ready to go every time you turn the key.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.