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Bench Battle: Headunit Features vs. Performance

Headunit FeaturesAwhile ago, a client asked us what you get when you buy a “better” headunit. The usual answer is that you get more features and improved functionality. Those of us with a drive for the ultimate in sound quality and realism from our mobile electronics systems choose products in hopes of them receiving improved sound quality. Beyond frequency response and noise, what else makes one radio sound better than another?

We invited two head unit specimens to the Best Car Audio test bench for a little head-to-head battle. The first subject is a modern multimedia station that is equipped with navigation, smartphone integration and the general Bluetooth goodness. The challenger is a veteran, but premium, CD receiver. It has never heard of MP3 files, doesn’t understand the concept of satellite radio and thinks Bluetooth is the result of eating blueberry pie. However, in its day, it was one of the best. We do not need to mention names here, but we will call this the bench battle of features versus performance.

The Equalizer – Premium Test Equipment

Measuring the frequency response of a car audio product is relatively easy if you can feed a known signal into the device. When it comes to measuring a signal source, that is responsible for generating the signal, so all we can do is measure the output. We have a high-end digital interface on our bench. It offers a flat frequency response from 5 Hz to 92 kHz with a tolerance of 1 dB. The signal to noise ratio is an amazing 116 dBA and distortion is specified at less than 0.00032%. These specifications exceed those of both source units we are going to test.

Frequency Response Measurement

Testing the frequency response of a source unit requires some trickery. We have developed a reliable method that has proven itself time after time. The image below shows the frequency response of the reference signal. It has a slight incline in the high-frequency region, but everything is within a tolerance of about 1 dB. We converted this 192 kHz, 24-bit test track down to the CD standard of 44.1 kHz and 16 bit. Response to 22.05 kHz remains ruler-flat.

Headunit Features
Reference White Noise Signal

Frequency Response Results

Before we get into the results, we want to explain how to use the measurement graphs. The test track uses random noise as part of the test procedure. We process that after the test is complete. What you want to observe is the trend of the charts. A small peak or valley is not an anomaly in this scenario. Average the curve in your mind to see the overall trend.

The CD receiver: We played our test track from a standard CD audio file to make sure both source units were given the same information. The frequency response of the unit showed a typical response. The high-frequency filter kicks in around 17 kHz, which is normal for consumer products.

The DVD receiver: We played the same CD in the DVD receiver to see how it responded. The manufacturer of the DVD receiver has included a 2 dB boost on the top end that starts at 7 kHz and peaks at just over 2 dB at 15 kHz. The high-frequency filter response is similar to that of the CD player.

The high-frequency boost is not a big deal in terms of how a system sounds. Most of us have some high-frequency attenuation in our hearing, so this helps put some of the sizzle and air back into our music. It would be worth checking whether the source unit output clips when a 0 dB 15 kHz tone is played. This article is not a product review, so we will save that for someone else to tackle.

Headunit Features
Frequency Response Comparison

Bring the Noise

Our next challenge for the new versus old shootout is a little more technical: We wanted to see how each unit performed regarding background noise. This test is often reserved for lab environments, but can quantify the effort put into the component selection and system design.

For this test, we used a 1 kHz test tone recorded at -90 dB relative to full scale. Because the two source units have different pre-amp capabilities, we adjusted them so the output of the 1 kHz tone was equal in amplitude. This would best depict the noise imposed on the signal.

Headunit Features
1khz Noise Test

The CD receiver: We can see that the background noise relative to the signal is very quiet. There is a little bump at 60 Hz that was created by the power supply on our test bench. Otherwise, the test was impressive.

The DVD receiver: The background noise relative to the 1 kHz is 10 to 15 dB louder than that of the CD receiver at higher frequencies. There are also some spurious harmonic distortions in the output signal, mostly above 1 kHz. The large bump in noise in the low-frequency region could be caused by our 60 Hz 120 volt power supply causing some harmonics. The bandwidth is really wide, so it is hard to determine for sure.

A Distorted Perspective

We decided to repeat the test with a full-amplitude 1 kHz sine wave to see what harmonic content would be created at higher internal levels. The limits of the FFT analysis in our software starts to show up here. The flat horizontal line on the left of the chart and the angled line on the right are due to the analysis software and don’t represent noise.

Headunit Features
1kHz Noise Test 0dB

The CD receiver: We noted two small harmonics at 14,750 and 165,000 Hz, with a slight harmonic at 12,000 Hz. Otherwise, the signal was very pure.

The DVD receiver: Harmonic distortion was clearly present at 1 kHz intervals starting at 2 kHz. It is worth noting that the first resonance is 45 dB quieter than the reference signal. If you were just playing the test tone, you might be able to hear it, but only just barely.

The Grand Finale – Intermodulation Distortion

Testing for intermodulation distortion is, well, mean. Out intermodulation distortion test is comprised of a CD test tone with 19 and 20 kHz sine waves played simultaneously. The spectral response of the test track can be seen below.

Headunit Features
Intermodulation Reference

The CD receiver: When you are looking at an intermodulation comparison test, you are looking for frequency content that wasn’t in the original file. In the case of the CD receiver, we can see a very small bump at 1 kHz. This is significant because it is the difference between 19 kHz and 20 kHz. This would be considered an excellent result. A few other spikes show up at 3,500, 4,500 and 9,500 Hz, but they are still quite low – peaking at -93 dB relative to the test signal level of –15 dB.

The DVD receiver: We cannot really explain what happened here. There is 1 kHz content only 20 dB down from the 19k Hz and 20 kHz tones. Then harmonics upon harmonics of this up to 21 kHz. This test shows why some source units sound accurate and pure, while others do not.

Headunit Features
Intermodulation Comparison

Are Headunit Features Worth the Trade-off?

A few months ago, we published an article about harmonic distortion. That served to establish the basic understanding of how distortion creates content that wasn’t present in an original audio file. Our intent in this comparison is not to put down the modern DVD receiver, but to show what happens when manufacturers forego the bells and whistles and simply focus on all-out performance.

The same tests that apply to these source units are also common in amplifiers and speakers. We will subject an amplifier to the same mean and nasty tests in the coming months.

Don’t ever let price, perception or age dictate how you think a product sounds. Work with your mobile electronics specialist retailer to listen and compare for yourself. You will be amazed at what you hear.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Custom Vented Enclosures-More Bang for Your Buck

Custom Vented EnclosuresWe all know that the performance of different makes and models of speakers and subwoofers has a dramatic difference in how they sound. When it comes to the installation of subwoofers, the choice of enclosure plays a huge role in the sound of the subwoofer system. In this article, we look at some of the benefits of custom vented enclosures and solutions available.

The Factors that Determine Performance.

Custom Vented EnclosuresThree criteria have the most effect on performance: air volume, tuning frequency (for bass reflex enclosures) and construction. Every subwoofer has its electro-mechanical characteristics. Subsequently, each subwoofer needs its very own enclosure design. With that said, some relatively standard designs offer good performance across a wide variety of speakers.

The difference between having an enclosure that “works” and one that sounds amazing is all in the design. Have your mobile electronics retailer confirm that the air volume and tuning frequency match your application before you purchase. (We will explain that happens when the air volume or tuning frequencies are “off” in another article.)

Wait, Why Vented Enclosures?

While there are benefits and drawbacks to each type of enclosure, a vented (bass reflex) enclosure will offer excellent efficiency and low-frequency extension for most people. These enclosure characteristics reduce the amount of power we need to send to the woofer, and therefore reduce the chances of overpowering and damaging the woofer.

Off-the-shelf Enclosures

Many car audio retailers offer subwoofer enclosures that have been mass-produced. These enclosures vary dramatically in construction quality and design. Some companies tune their enclosures relatively high to increase efficiency at higher frequencies while sacrificing low-frequency output and power handling. The materials used to build these enclosures also vary in quality.

Almost all of these off-the-shelf enclosures are made of MDF. That said, the density of the material varies a great deal. Some MDF is very soft in the middle, offering less resistance to panel deformation. Enclosures made of this soft-center MDF are also prone to having the mounting hardware strip when your installer goes to mount the subwoofer.

These days, efficient use of space is increasingly important for auto sound enthusiasts. An off-the-shelf enclosure may not maximize the available space in the storage area of your vehicle. Enclosure manufacturers try to balance the dimensions of the enclosure against the airspace requirements of the intended driver and the space available in the average vehicle.

Construction Methods

Many enclosure manufacturers claim to use a rabbet joint where two panels meet. Unlike a butt joint, a stepped rabbet joint will increase the surface area of the connection by about 50%. Enclosure assembly typically makes use of a generous amount of glue. Once glued, the panels are held together with brad nails to allow the glue to set up. The additional surface area provided by the rabbet connection results in a stronger joint and a reduced chance of air leaking.

Vent Considerations

If a vent (or port) is designed and constructed properly, a vented enclosure can produce less distortion than a sealed (acoustic suspension) enclosure. To reduce distortion and meet these goals, the vent must have adequate surface area and be designed in a way that the air entering and exiting the vent will couple well with the air in the listening environment. Several subwoofer manufacturers design and construct their enclosures. These stand out from the crowd as having excellent vent designs.

Custom Vented Enclosures

Enclosures with no radius or taper on the vent end are more prone to noise. This sharp edge on the vent can create chuffing or other noises as air rushes over its edges. For a 3-inch or larger vent, a simple 3/4”-inch radius on the vent edge is just barely enough to be beneficial. A much larger radius offers more benefit in allowing the air inside the vent to decelerate properly.

Your Enclosure May Need Bracing

Custom Vented EnclosuresIf you are looking for the best possible performance from your subwoofer system, then every effort possible should be made to ensure that each panel of the enclosure is as rigid as possible. One way to add strength to an enclosure is for the manufacturer to install bracing. Bracing connects opposite panels to each other to reduce flexing. Panel vibrations can, in extreme cases, cause glue joints to fail.

Application-specific Subwoofer Enclosures

Custom Vented Enclosures
This enclosure provides a creative solution to adding bass, replacing the bottom half of a center console with an enclosure.

We have talked about some of the benefits and some of the drawbacks of an off-the-shelf subwoofer enclosure. The alternative is to have your mobile electronics retailer design and construct an enclosure to fit your vehicle. Maximizing usable storage space can be achieved by having your fabricator fit the enclosure snugly to the sides of the vehicle. Many vehicle-specific enclosures combine different construction techniques. Flat panels, fiberglass, stacked-panel fabrication and more can allow an installer to make amazing use of every cubic inch of your storage space.

Maximize Bass Custom Vented Enclosures

One of the first and most beneficial additions than can be made to a factory audio system is a subwoofer system. When it is time to take that first step, visit your local mobile electronics retailer. They will be happy to show you what is available for your vehicle, and what they can create. We know that no matter what you choose, you will be pleased with the dramatic results.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Product Spotlight: AudioControl LC-1.1500 Mono Subwoofer Amplifier

AudioControl LC-1.1500 It isn’t hard to notice that AudioControl hasn’t eased up on its delivery of amazing new mobile audio product solutions. The latest addition to the AudioControl family is the high-power LC-1.1500 subwoofer amplifier. Rated to produce 1,500 watts of continuous power and equipped with the integration and audio processing features you’ve come to expect from AudioControl, this new monoblock is sure to be a huge hit!

AudioControl LC-1.1500 Design

AudioControl LC-1.1500 The LC-1.1500 shares the same cast aluminum heat sink as the LC-6.1200 with a total length of 12 inches. All of the connections are on the front edge of the amplifier, including the beefy 0-AWG power block and a hefty 8-AWG speaker terminal block. There are two positive and two negative speaker output terminals to facilitate connections to multiple subwoofers or multiple voice coils.

AudioControl LC-1.1500 The left side of the end panel features no less than four 40-Amp ATC fuses. The center of the panel is home to the input connections. Your installer can choose from a pair of line-level RCA jacks or connect the amp to a factory-installed source unit or amplifier using the provided speaker-level input terminals. It’s well worth noting that the LC-1.1500 will accept speaker-level signals up to 40 volts RMS. This high-voltage compatibility eliminates the need for an external line-level converter. Last but certainly not least, an RJ-11 jack serves as the connection for the optional ACR-1 remote level control.

Audio Processing Features

AudioControl LC-1.1500 It should come as no surprise that signal processing has always been one of AudioControl’s strengths. Starting with the basics, the 1.1500 includes an adjustable -24dB/octave electronic crossover with a Linkwitz-Riley alignment. The crossover is adjustable from 30 to 230 Hz. Beside the crossover is the amplifier sensitivity control. When using the line-level inputs, the amp will produce full power with an input signal between 500mV and 6 volts. When using the speaker-level inputs, the input voltage range increases from 3V to 40V. Input and output level optimization LEDs are included to increase the efficiency and accuracy of the level-setting process.

The 1.1500 includes AudioControl’s GTO (Great Turn On) signal sensing circuit. If you have the LC-1.1500 connected to a factory-installed radio or amplifier, this circuit will turn the 1.1500 on automatically when you start playing music.

Speaking of factory audio integration, the 1.1500 also includes the AccuBASS processing feature. This feature helps to restore low-frequency information that is often limited in factory-installed audio systems. Your installer can set the input threshold level and decide just how much extra output is required to restore impact and excitement to your music.

Amplifier Design

AudioControl LC-1.1500 A look under the top cover of the AudioControl LC-1.1500 reveals a massive power transformer flanked by two large banks of filtering and stiffening caps. The output from the Class D circuitry features two large toroidal filters and two large caps. An internal shield keeps RF emissions away from the signal processing circuitry for improved sound quality. All the caps and transformers are secured in place with silicone to prevent damage from vibration. The majority of the signal processing and control components on the board are high-tolerance surface-mount devices.

A compact cooling fan in the center of the circuit board helps to circulate air across the heat sink and reduce the chances of thermal overload. AudioControl includes a microcontroller in the amp that monitors the system performance and can protect the amp if a short circuit, thermal overload or power supply voltage issue occurs. The Protection LED flashes a code that you can look up in the owner’s manual, so you’ll know what’s happening. The microcontroller also controls the fan speed.

Big Bass with Big Features

AudioControl LC-1.1500The 1.1500 is rated to produce 850 watts of power into a 4-ohm load and 1,500 watts into a 2-ohm load. The S/N ratio specifcation of -102 dBA referenced to full power and the bandwidth is 24Hz to 230Hz with the crossover at its maximum frequency. A 24dB/octave infrasonic filter that AudioControl calls the PFM Subsonic filter protects your vented subwoofer systems from damage.

This amplifier isn’t for the meek. If you are serious about big bass in your car, truck or SUV and you have the subwoofers to handle this sort of fun, this is an amazing option. You’ll need to be sure to feed the amp with proper wiring (0 AWG). With the ability to draw over 150 amps of current, beefing up your battery isn’t a bad idea either. If this sounds like your cup of tea, drop into your local authorized AudioControl dealer and check out the new LC-1.1500 amplifier.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: Car Audio, PRODUCTS, RESOURCE LIBRARY Tagged With: Audio Control

Fuses: To Serve and Protect!

FusesLet’s face it: Accidents happen. Minimizing the collateral damage from an accident is important. When you have a mobile electronics system that includes installing an amplifier in your vehicle, a discussion about fuses or circuit protection should take place before the installation begins. Choosing the right device to ensure your system works as intended and is safe in the event something goes wrong is very important. Let’s talk about fuses.

What is a Fuse?

A fuse is a device that will disconnect a circuit when too much current passes through it. Fuses typically incorporate a small piece of metal with a specific amount of resistance. As current passes through the fuse, the piece of metal heats up. Up to a certain temperature, the circuit remains functional. If the current level increases, the fuse heats up more and will eventually fail, which protects the power source and load.

My Wire Needs a Fuse?

FusesTwo common locations in our audio systems need protection. Any power connection to the battery needs a fuse. Any electronic device connected to the vehicle electrical system should also have a fuse.

The fuse at the battery is there to protect the vehicle in the event of a short circuit. If it is installed incorrectly, the power wire may rub against a sharp object and wear through the jacket. Once the conductor touches the chassis, a short circuit will occur. Left unprotected, the only limiting factors in how much current passes is the internal resistance of the battery, the resistance of the power wire and the resistance of the connection to the chassis. In most cases, hundreds of amps of current will flow – if we don’t have a fuse on the battery.

Imagine a car with a big stereo system. There may be an upgraded AGM battery under the hood and a few huge amplifiers in the trunk. What if the unthinkable happens – the car is involved in an accident, and the chassis shorts to the power wire? Without a fuse on the power wire connection to the battery, both the wire and the battery will heat up very quickly and could easily start a fire.

Fuses in Our Devices

FusesRecently, we experienced an instance where a radio was blowing the 15 amp fuse in its power harness as soon as it was plugged in. Even with all the speakers disconnected, it kept blowing fuses. It turned out there was an improperly soldered terminal on the internal amplifier in the radio. This poorly soldered connection was shorting the power connection to the chassis of the radio and, subsequently, to the ground. The 15 amp fuse in the harness prevented the copper traces on the circuit board from being destroyed. Our technician was able to clean up the solder connection, and we put the radio back into service.

Types of Fuses in Car Audio

More and more new fuses are introduced to automobiles each year as manufacturers strive to reduce weight and packaging sizes. On the aftermarket side, we use three common fuse styles.

AGC and AGU Fuses

FusesAGC and AGU fuses are constructed from four components: a fusible link, a pair of end caps and a glass tube. The manufacturer solders the fusible link to one end cap, then slides the glass tube over the link before soldering on the other end cap. Many radio harnesses and lower-power devices use AGC fuses. For years, the larger-diameter AGU fuses were very popular in amplifier installation kits.

The problem with these fuses is that the quality and reliability of the internal solder connections can affect their performance. We have seen brand-new fuses out of package not work because the solder connection on one cap was incomplete.

Another consideration for AGC and AGU glass fuses is how we connect them to our power wire. In most cases, a terminal is pressed against the end cap using a sprung metal connection. As this connection heats up, it can loosen. For low-current applications, AGC fuses are acceptable. For moderate- to high-current applications, there are better alternatives.

ATC, ATM and Maxi Fuses

FusesThis style of fuse is composed of two components: a plastic housing and a stamped metal piece that includes the electrical connection tabs and current-limiting link. These fuses are compact and easy to install. They eliminate the connection that plagues the glass fuses, but they still suffer from problems when it comes to connecting them to the power wire. In almost all applications, sprung metal tabs are responsible for pressing the tabs of the fuse against the wire terminals. These can fail over time.

A common point of failure is the loop-type under-hood fuse holder that are included with aftermarket lighting kits. These molded holders include two female terminals connected to the input and output wire. After time and many heat cycles, these terminals can loosen, and the resulting resistance will cause the holder to fail. It should be noted that the current required to heat up the connection to the failing point is often less than what is required to blow a fuse.

ANL and Mini-ANL Fuses

FusesIn the mobile electronics industry, ANL and Mini-ANL fuses are the preferred option when it comes to protecting devices from over-current conditions. These fuses are constructed in the same way as an ATC, ATM or maxi fuse, with a single metal plate that is stamped to provide the connection terminals and the fusible link. A plastic housing snaps over or rivets to the device to enclose the link.

Where these fuses differ from the other two styles is in how they are connected to the wiring. A set of large blocks connects to the wire. Most of these blocks use set screws. The fuse is then attached to these blocks with a large-diameter bolt. Your installer can (and should) tighten the bolt to ensure that the electrical connection is solid and secure.

Protect Your Vehicle and Equipment

Whenever you have your installer adds an electrical device to your vehicle, it must be fused. Even a small-diameter wire for an auxiliary USB charge port, a radar detector or LED lighting can cause an impressive amount of damage when overheated. It will not only melt through its jacket, but will melt the wiring around it. Proper circuit protection is cheap insurance against having to call the insurance company. Your local mobile electronics specialist retailer would be more than happy to discuss how and where they fuse the equipment they install.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, Integration, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Steering Wheel Audio Control Integration

Steering Wheel Audio ControlWhen you go shopping for a new radio for your car, one of the many questions the product specialist should ask you is whether your existing radio has steering wheel-mounted audio controls. Almost every aftermarket radio has provisions to accept a signal that will give you steering wheel audio control functions like volume, source selection, tracking and power. Here’s how it all works.

Factory Control Functionality

Steering Wheel Audio ControlThere are two common types of steering wheel control interfaces. The first is resistive; the second is data. Systems that use resistors often have two wires connected to the switches. Each switch presents a different resistance value when pressed. The factory radio sees these different resistances as different voltages and the computer in the radio responds appropriately. There are usually two wires so a multitude of switches can have well-separated resistance values to ensure functions will never overlap.

A small computer is built into the steering wheel controls switches in vehicles that use data communication for the steering wheel audio controls. This computer has inputs dedicated to each switch and its function. When you press a switch on the steering wheel, the computer sends a digital communication to the computer in the radio. Often, this communication takes place on the vehicle’s CAN data network.

Connection to Aftermarket Radios

Steering Wheel Audio ControlIn North America, almost every radio is Steering Wheel Remote Control Ready. Being “Ready” means the radio has a connection on the back to accept a serial data communication signal. The communication language used on the radio connection is not the same as that used in the vehicle. Thus, you will require an interface module to make everything work. Companies like iDatalink, Axxess and Pacific Accessory Corporation (known in the industry as PAC) all offer interfaces that can be programmed to understand and translate the information from the vehicle to something that is compatible with your radio.

Steering Wheel Audio Control Installation

Steering Wheel Audio ControlWhen your tech is installing the new radio in your vehicle, he has three tasks to complete to make the steering wheel audio controls work. First, he must wire the controls into your vehicle. In many cases, the installer will use a “harness saver” or “wire harness adapter” to connect a set of bare wires to the factory radio plug for power, illumination and speaker wire connections. This adapter usually includes the steering wheel communication wires from the vehicle.

Once the installer completes the electrical connections, the next step is to program the module to understand the commands from the vehicle. Some interfaces have software built into them to recognize commands from the vehicle automatically.

Another method of programming the interfaces uses a website that will allow the installer to select the year, make, model and trim level of the vehicle, and program the interface to recognize the correct commands.

Finally, the interface has to be programmed to send the correct commands to the new radio. Each brand of radio has a set of dedicated and unique command codes.

Additional Options

Steering Wheel Audio ControlOver the past few years, many vehicle owners have chosen to upgrade their factory radios to add Bluetooth audio streaming and hands-free calling to their vehicle. New cars have telephone control buttons on the steering wheel, but older ones don’t. Several of the interface modules have the ability to send different commands to the aftermarket radio, depending on how long you press and hold the steering wheel buttons. For example, a quick tap on the Volume Down button will, of course, turn the volume of the aftermarket radio down. You can have the button programmed so pressing and holding it for a couple of seconds to tell the radio to answer an incoming Bluetooth phone call.

The list of compatible functions varies by vehicle and the make and model of the aftermarket radio.

Custom Applications

Steering Wheel Audio ControlOne unique feature of the steering wheel control interface is that your installer could build a set of custom controls for you. Let’s say you are building a custom car, and you want to add a nice sound system. In most applications like this, the builder will install the aftermarket radio in the glovebox, under the seat or in the trunk of the vehicle. But how can you control the radio if you cannot reach the controls? Your installer could mount a set of switches in the center console and then program the switches, through an interface module to control the aftermarket radio.

Some installers and fabricators have gotten quite creative with these switch installations. A power mirror adjustment switch, for instance, serves as a great solution for volume and tracking functions.

Your Retailer is Ready to Help

When it is time to install a new radio in your vehicle, drop by your local mobile electronics specialist retailer. They would be happy to show you the latest in car audio source units and explain how they can integrate it into your vehicle.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, Integration, RESOURCE LIBRARY

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