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Debunking the Remote Start Range Myth: Learn the truth about remote starting your vehicle from anywhere.

Remote Start Range

There isn’t a category in the mobile enhancement industry not plagued by myths and misunderstandings. There’s nonsense about subwoofer cone materials improving sound quality, claims that Class D can’t sound better than Class AB, or that remote car starters are bad for your vehicle. This article will be the first in a series that addresses and explains the most common myths about remote car starters. We will kick this off with the myth that you can remote start your vehicle from anywhere.

Can You Remote Start Your Car or Truck from Anywhere?

Many consumers believe you can remote start your car or truck from anywhere if you’ve purchased a car starter. For example, if you are in the local mall, finishing up your Christmas shopping on a cold December evening, people expect that you can push the button on the remote, and your vehicle will start. While it’s possible or even probable, it’s not guaranteed.

The issue here is the transmitting power of the remote fob. These remotes use a low-power radio frequency transmitter, with 3.6-volt coin cells or 4.2-volt lithium batteries as power sources. Unlike the local radio station that might have 50,000 to 100,000 watts of power or a handheld two-way radio with 5 to 10 watts, your remote start key fob likely has less than a watt of power. The lack of signal transmission power means you can’t be on the other side of the city and expect it to work. If you’ve purchased an entry-level remote starter, you likely can’t start the vehicle reliably from within a big store.

Remote Start Range Is Key to Reliable Operation

Remote start range is the top priority when shopping for a car starter as it correlates to perceived reliability. If you push the button on the key fob, you expect the vehicle to start. If it doesn’t, most consumers think the system is broken. In reality, being out of range is typically the problem.

Range refers to the distance between your vehicle and you when starting the car with the starter. The most basic and least expensive remote starters offer about 1,500 feet of range under ideal conditions. If buildings or trees are in the way, or there’s a significant amount of radio frequency interference in your area, you might only get 100 to 200 feet of usable range from those systems. If the battery in the remote is low, that will also reduce the operation range.

All brands of remote starter systems have a variety of range options. For example, Compustar, the leader in remote car starter and security systems, offers four key fob range levels. More accurately, they have four different power transmitting levels.

Remote Start Range
Compustar offers remotes with 1,500 feet to 3 miles of range performance.

After determining the make, model, trim level and year of your car, truck or SUV, the product specialist should ask how you use your vehicle. Do you park it in the driveway in front of your home? Is it beside the building you work in? Are you in an apartment building with underground parking? Do you work in a large production facility? Answering these questions will give them an idea of how much power the remote needs so that you can start the vehicle reliably. Imagine your frustration if you arrive at your car, thinking it’s been running for a few minutes, only to find out it didn’t get the signal from the remote!

Remote Start System Control Options

Three communication options allow you to send commands to your vehicle’s remote car starter system. The radio-frequency key fobs mentioned above are by far the most common. A few companies offer Bluetooth communication options. These solutions let you use your smartphone to send commands to the remote starter hardware in your vehicle. While the published maximum range is 150 feet for these solutions, real-world functionality is often much less. Bluetooth connectivity is a great backup solution if something more reliable isn’t working.

A third option is a telematics interface. Telematics refers to the use of telecommunication systems to transfer digital information. Technically, the good old days of dial-up internet connectivity used telematics. In the case of remote car starters, you can upgrade your vehicle with an interface that uses cellular communication to relay commands from an app on your phone to the car.

Remote Start Range
Telematics solutions like Drone let you control your vehicle with your smartphone. Image: Firstech.com

Make Sure Your Remote Starter Will Work

Here’s an example of why remote start range is essential. Let’s say you work in a hospital and have just finished a grueling 12-hour night shift in the emergency department. You grab your coat and boots, then want to remote start your vehicle. If you have an RF remote, the chance of it providing enough range is iffy, though it depends on the size of the hospital and where you’ve parked. More importantly, it depends on the range capabilities of the remote you’ve chosen. If you have a telematics solution, you can launch the control app on your phone and press the start button. The app will send a command to your vehicle using the local cellular data network. High-quality solutions like Drone from Firstech might only need a second or two for the message to get to the vehicle. Once the engine starts, you’ll get a confirmation in the app that it’s running.

Though most cities have excellent cellular network coverage, access to a cell signal isn’t always guaranteed. There might be pockets of areas where network accessibility is limited. Likewise, if you’ve parked underground in an office building, the telematics hardware in your vehicle might be unable to pick up a cellular signal. If you want to be sure you can remote start the vehicle, use the app on your phone to lock the vehicle when you park it. The signal strength indicator on your phone will also tell you the cellular coverage where you have parked. The app will notify you if it’s unable to communicate with the vehicle to lock the doors. Depending on the results, you may choose to move the vehicle. Alternatively, you may decide that using the RF remote is adequate once you’re closer to your car or truck.

Remote Start Range
Coming out to a cold car on a winter morning is no fun. A remote car starter can help.

Know If Your Vehicle Is Remote Started

Most entry-level key fobs are only capable of transmitting a signal. If the vehicle is too far away, that digital request to lock the doors or start the engine will go unanswered. Unfortunately, you won’t know the status unless you can see the vehicle. Most high-quality remote car starter manufacturers offer remotes with two-way communications. The remote key fobs can transmit commands to the starter system, and the starter can broadcast confirmation messages back to the remote.

Two-way remotes come in two styles: LED and LCD. An LED two-way remote will let you know if the remote starter hardware has received and executed a command by illuminating a little light on the remote and producing a beep or chirp. If the command fails, the remote should warn that the request is incomplete. Please make sure the system you’ve purchased confirms failed requests.

The second type of two-way remote has an LCD or OLED display. These remotes use graphics to indicate the completion of a request. These remotes will also beep or chirp; some have a vibrating motor. With a two-way remote, you’ll never wonder whether your car is locked or has completed the remote start process.

Remote Start Range
A two-way remote like the Compustar Q9 will display visual confirmation that your vehicle has started successfully.

Choose the Best Shop to Upgrade Your Vehicle

We’ll finish this discussion about remote start range by reminding our readers that the lowest-price remote starter is rarely the best choice. An inexpensive remote starter likely won’t offer much range. Likewise, the durability of the remotes might be questionable. We don’t know anyone who hasn’t dropped their car keys at least once. Better-quality remotes should be water-resistant or waterproof, just in case that drop involves a puddle.

Remote Start Range
Choosing a remote starter with water-resistant or waterproof remotes is wise.

When it comes to installation, many shortcuts can save the technician time but affect the performance and reliability of your car starter system. Failing to make reliable electrical connections could prevent the system from working or, in a worst-case scenario, leave you stranded and unable to start the vehicle. Where the antenna and control modules in the vehicle are mounted can affect performance. Likewise, how the technician routes wires or mounts control modules can play a role in determining range. The hardware you choose also determines how well the system integrates with the vehicle.

You will also want to pick a shop that cares for its clients’ vehicles. You should see fender covers in use when someone is working under the hood or in the trunk. Seat covers, steering wheel covers and floor mats should protect the interior when the vehicle is driven into or out of the bay or when someone is working under the dash. The vehicle battery should be on a charger when the doors are open so the dome light doesn’t deplete the battery.

Remote Start Range
Choosing a reputable shop to install your remote car starter is vital to ensuring its reliability and performance.

Shopping for a remote car starter is similar to shopping for a plastic surgeon. Do you want an amateur under your vehicle’s dash, cutting wires without being 100% sure what they are doing? If you want to add a remote car starter to your vehicle, start by looking at the shop’s website. Do they have examples of their work? Do they explain their client qualification process? Next, look at the shop’s reviews on Google. Do they have happy customers? Once you’ve narrowed the list, visit a few shops. You should get an immediate sense of professionalism from the product specialist who greets you. They should ask questions about your vehicle and, as mentioned, where and how you use it. They should offer several solutions, explaining the benefits of what more elaborate systems provide. They should explain the remote start range capabilities and show examples of what will and won’t work.

While considering your purchase, look around the shop for certifications or awards. Many top retailers have technicians who have completed Mobile Electronics Certified Professional training. These are good signs. Finally, make sure you ask about warranty and after-sales support. The product specialist should give you a detailed walk-through of the remote starter functionality once the installation has been completed.

Your car, truck or SUV is an essential part of your life. Adding a remote starter with the control solution that provides the range you need is a great way to elevate your driving experience.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Remote Car Starters, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Selecting the Best Amplifier for Your Car Audio Speakers

Best Amplifier

Speaker power ratings are among the most confusing and misleading specifications in the car audio industry. Once you understand the process used to test speaker power handling, you’ll quickly realize that the information doesn’t always translate to information that’s helpful in choosing an amplifier. Let’s dive into the science behind choosing the best amplifier for your car audio speakers.

Speaker Power Ratings

In short, how much power a speaker can handle depends primarily on the voice coil’s diameter, length and number of windings. Secondary considerations include the gap size between the voice coil assembly, the T-yoke and the top plate of the speaker. Closer proximity helps to improve heat transfer away from the voice coil. A smaller gap also increases efficiency. However, if the gap is too tight, the voice coil or former might rub, which can cause damage and distortion. Cooling technologies like a vented pole piece, vents under the spider mounting plateau and vents in the former also help by allowing air to flow around the voice coil.

Best Amplifier
A pair of voice coils from speakers: The left is for a woofer, and the right is for a P.A.-style midrange driver.

The type of enclosure used also plays a role in power handling. A sealed enclosure will trap heat around the motor assembly. A vented enclosure will allow heat to escape as air is exchanged through the vent resonance.

Audio Content and Power Handling

A concept that many audio enthusiasts don’t fully understand is how power is distributed based on audio frequencies. Looking at frequency response measurements on a real-time audio analyzer can exacerbate this misunderstanding.

When we look at acoustic audio measurements of pink noise on an RTA, we expect to see a flat line. This indicates that the amplitude of each frequency is equal. While we might want to bump up the bass to make the system fun or attenuate the high-frequency content by a few decibels, we don’t want peaks or dips anywhere in the graph.

Best Amplifier
While this isn’t an RTA, it represents what we perceive as a flat acoustic response in terms of amplitude and frequency.

Where the confusion lies is that the technician working on calibrating your car audio system is using pink noise with the RTA. Pink noise contains random frequencies with the same energy per octave. Put another way, dividing power by the range of frequencies in a given octave will give you the same energy per hertz.

Between 10 and 100 hertz, there are 90 1-hertz frequency bands. We have 900 bands between 100 and 1,000, and 9,000 between 1,000 and 10,000. Let’s say we have 10 watts of power to distribute among those frequencies. In our lowest octave, each one of the hertz bands gets an average of 111.11 milliwatts. In the band between 100 and 1000 hertz, each hertz band receives an average of 11.11 milliwatts. In the top octave between 1,000 and 10,000, each hertz band receives an average of 1.11 milliwatts. Once again, this power distribution produces a flat line on an RTA graph.

The bottom line is that pink noise matches how humans perceive sound. Our ears perceive pink as having the same volume level at all frequencies. Pink noise is occasionally called an equal intensity curve.

Best Amplifier
Pink noise has the same audio energy per octave band.

What Does Frequency Have To Do with Speaker Power Ratings?

Imagine, if you will, a typical mid-level car audio subwoofer. It might have a 2-inch diameter voice coil former with a winding that’s 1.5 inches tall with a two-layer winding. Rated power handling might be around 400 watts. Now, let’s consider the voice coil in a typical 6×9 speaker. The diameter might be 1 inch, and the winding might be 0.75 inch tall. The speaker might have a continuous power rating of 100 watts. All of this makes sense so far. Less mass in the winding means it can handle less heat.

Now, let’s think about a tweeter. It likely has a voice coil diameter of 1 inch, but the winding might be 0.2 inch tall, and it will surely have no more than one layer. Worse, the wire will be tiny in diameter. Even then, many stand-alone tweeters have a power rating of 100 watts. How can this small voice coil dissipate 100 watts of heat? What about P.A.-style speakers? They often have extremely short voice coils. Yet some claim to have 200-, 300- and even 500-watt power handling ratings. How is this possible?

If the power handling test uses filtered pink noise, then the speaker is tested with less power. A tweeter can’t reproduce bass or midrange frequencies. So, to test their power handling, the noise waveform would be filtered at something like 3,000 or 4,000 hertz. Filtering the bass information removes significant energy from the signal.

If we apply a 2-kHz high-pass filter to a 100-watt equivalent pink noise signal, the result would be only 1 watt of power going to the speaker. Midrange and high-frequency speaker power ratings are almost always quantified this way. So, your 100-watt tweeter can only handle 1 watt of power. Your P.A.-style midrange likely can’t play much below 300 Hz. It might only get 3 or 4 watts of power if appropriately filtered from our 100-watt example.

Matching Amplifiers to Speakers

Now that we’ve set the stage for understanding power ratings, we can finally talk about matching amplifiers to speakers. How powerful of an amplifier do you need for your speakers? The answer starts with the frequency range in which you’ll operate the speakers. With subwoofers, you’ll be playing bass frequencies, so almost all the energy in the music will arrive at the speaker. You’re in the same boat if you have a system with 6.5-inch or 6×9-inch speakers and no subwoofer. You’ll be sending bass information to the speakers. If your system has a subwoofer, you’ll likely only send frequencies at 80 hertz and above to the speakers. That’s about 1/10 of the maximum power compared with a full-range signal. In theory, you only need 1/10 the power to your mids as your subwoofers need. So, 500 watts to a sub and 50 watts to the mids. If you have actively filtered tweeters, they likely only need a few watts.

Best Amplifier
Pink noise in red, pink noise filtered at 80 Hz in orange and pink noise filtered at 2 kHz in yellow.

A lot of this is theoretical rather than practical. So, let’s look at midrange speaker power handling another way. Let’s say you have a set of mid-quality component 6.5-inch speakers. They have a 100-watt power rating, and the woofer might have an Xmax specification of 4 mm. Let’s examine how much the woofer cone moves with 100 watts of power.

Best Amplifier
Predicted cone excursion for a 6.5-inch coaxial speaker driven with 100 watts of power.

The graph above shows us that the driver reaches its 4 mm excursion limit at 110 hertz. If you play music with content lower than 110 hertz, the driver might bottom out or, at the very least, sound terrible. If you want your audio system to sound terrible, driving midrange speakers beyond their excursion capabilities is a great way to do it. With an 80 hertz crossover point, 100 watts is too much power. As it turns out, 50 watts at 80 hertz results in a cone excursion of 4 mm.

Best Amplifier
Predicted cone excursion for a 6.5-inch coaxial speaker driven with 100 watts of power.

What About Time?

If you look at speaker specifications, you’ll see both continuous and peak power ratings. Some companies incorrectly refer to the continuous rating as an RMS rating. Using the term RMS implies that the power measurement was done with an RMS current or voltage measurement, not the waveform’s peak values. RMS refers to the amplitude in an AC waveform that can do the same work as an equivalent DC voltage.

Best Amplifier
The red trace is a sine wave; the blue trace shows the DC voltage level with the same power as the AC signal.

Companies with genuine engineering specifications for their speakers will test them at their continuously rated power level for eight to sometimes over 100 hours. The speaker needs to continue to function after the test, and the Thiele/Small parameters should typically remain within 10% of where they were when the trial started. In other words, the voice coil can’t overheat or fail, and the suspension can’t stretch significantly.

With all that said, speakers can handle momentary bursts of additional power beyond their ratings. The problem is that how long these bursts can last without causing damage is difficult to quantify. Let’s say you’re listening to a song with a vocalist and someone playing a guitar. In the middle, there’s a drum break like Phil Collins’ solo from “In the Air Tonight.” If you cranked up the volume during that solo, even at twice a speaker’s continuous rated power level, that’s not enough energy to overheat the voice coil. So as long as the speaker isn’t physically damaged, everything should be fine.

Best Amplifier
An example of a voice coil that has overheated from overpowering. Image Credit: Elliott Sound Products.

Picking the Best Amplifier for Your Car Audio Speakers

So, after all this science and confusion, how do you pick the best amplifier for your car audio speakers? You choose the amp that sounds the best. Whether an amp makes 45, 50 or 60 watts doesn’t matter, as that’s only a difference of 0.5 or 0.8 dB in maximum output. Is a 100-watt amplifier “better” than a 50-watt amplifier? It is if it adds less noise and distortion to the signal that passes through it.

Think about how reputable companies group the amplifier series they offer. ARC Audio has the ARC Series. Rockford Fosgate has the Power Series. Kicker has the IQ Series. Audison has the Thesis Series. Hertz has Mille. Sony has the Mobile ES line. Aside from some additional features, these higher-end amplifiers sound better than the lower models. They have better signal-to-noise ratio specifications and lower total harmonic distortion numbers. When playing the same music through the same speakers at the same volume, the sound produced by higher-quality amplifiers is more precise and accurate.

Best Amplifier
All car audio companies have different series of amplifiers. Their better offerings usually sound clearer.

How Much Power Do My Speakers Need?

We can’t count the number of times we’ve seen posts on social media asking, “What amp is best for my speakers?” The poster will then list the speaker’s continuous power-handling capabilities, even if the number is irrelevant. You already know your tweeters will never need more than a few watts, so why would you use a 100-watt amp to drive them? Well, if the amp you have in mind has excellent distortion and noise measurements at those low levels, your tweeters will sound better.

What about everyday systems? How much power does a set of coaxial speakers need? If they are an entry-level speaker, 45 to 65 watts is likely more than enough power to drive them to their limits at lower frequencies. If you have a set of mid-priced component speakers, say in the $200 to $400 range, 75 to 100 watts is adequate. If you’ve purchased high-end speakers like the ARC Audio RS, Audison Thesis, Rockford T3 or T4, Hertz Mille, Kicker QS or Sony Mobile ES, an amplifier that produces 100 to 150 watts is a good power range.

Now, is buying an expensive, high-power amplifier a waste of money when using inexpensive speakers? Maybe. Speakers are almost always the weakest link in any audio system when it comes to how much distortion they add to the audio signal. Look at our articles on Understanding Speaker Quality, and you’ll see what we mean. You are better off buying speakers with distortion-reducing technologies like shorting rings, copper T-yoke caps or even more excursion capability and pairing them with a less exotic amplifier. The net result will be much better sound. If you have a great-sounding amplifier already, use it. Just ensure that the technician configuring and calibrating the system confirms that you can crank the volume without worrying about damaging anything. This doesn’t mean setting gains with a scope or distortion tester.

If you need help picking the best amplifier or speakers to upgrade your car audio system, drop by a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer. Please bring your favorite music and listen to it on their display at the same volume levels you would in your car or truck. This demonstration will give the product specialist an idea of the performance level you need regarding speakers and how powerful the amplifiers should be. Don’t hold back. If you like it loud, crank it. Hoping inadequate products will play louder only leads to disappointment, frustration and damaged equipment.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Explaining Audio Signal Phase and Polarity

Signal Phase

Understanding how DC voltages combine is quite simple. They add linearly when we wire sources (like batteries) in series. But understanding how AC waveforms combine is complicated. AC waveforms don’t always sum intuitively unless the peaks and valleys align perfectly. We see many examples where people interchange the terms phase and polarity. In reality, those words refer to different phenomena. Let’s take a close look at audio signal phase and polarity.

What Is an Audio Signal?

We will use sinusoidal waveforms as our example audio signals for this discussion. The sounds we hear are combinations of infinite frequencies. If you look at music on an oscilloscope, it would look something like the image below.

Signal Phase
A few milliseconds of an audio signal waveform as would be seen on an oscilloscope.

Phase refers to the relative timing between two waveforms. A single waveform can’t have phase. We must compare it to something else. As such, we will need a reference waveform for this article. You can see that below.

Signal Phase
Our reference waveform for this article.

In Phase

Let’s start with the basics. When we describe two waveforms as “in phase,” we infer that the peaks and valleys are aligned. The starting point of the waveform should happen at the same time. The image below shows two waveforms that are “in phase.”

Signal Phase
The pink and yellow audio waveforms shown here are in phase and perfectly align with each other.

Two waveforms can be in phase but have amplitude differences. The image below shows that condition.

Signal Phase
Two waveforms that are in phase but have different amplitudes.

Reverse Polarity

We often see amplifiers with a switch that inverts the polarity of the audio signal passing through the devices. These are frequently and mistakenly labeled as “Phase.” Let’s explain.

Phase is the relative difference in time between two signals. Polarity refers to a contrasting waveform direction. In DC voltage, we know that if we put a voltmeter’s red lead on the battery’s positive terminal and the black lead on the negative, we’ll see a positive voltage. If we reverse the leads and put the red on the negative and the black on the positive, we’ll see a negative voltage on a digital meter. We call this “having the polarity backward.”

In AC waveforms, the same thing happens. If two waveforms have the same starting point and frequency, but one goes positive while the other goes negative, we refer to one being in the opposite polarity.

Here are our two audio waveforms in the oscilloscope. The yellow waveform shows the opposite polarity to that of the pink waveform.

Signal Phase
The pink waveform has the reverse polarity of the yellow waveform.

Let’s consider this in terms of audio signals going to a speaker. The speaker driven by the yellow signal would start from rest and then initially move forward. The speaker driven by the pink signal would begin moving toward the magnet. Activating the polarity switch has the same effect as swapping the positive and negative speaker wire connections.

Signal Phase
An example of an amplifier with an incorrectly labeled polarity control switch.

The image above shows an amplifier with the polarity control switch incorrectly labeled as phase. As a bonus, the amplifier has the infrasonic filter incorrectly marked Subsonic. This labeling is a fairly common error.

If the above amplifier could adjust the phase of the waveform of one signal to be 180 degrees from the other, the waveforms would look like this:

Signal Phase
An example of two waveforms with a phase shift of 180 degrees.

Phase

When discussing phase shifts, we include the peaks and valleys of a waveform and the starting time. This start point or time is especially crucial to discussing audio signals that are never sinusoidal. The starting times move if there is a phase shift between two signals. A difference in starting times implies a delay on one of the waveforms. We can do this quickly and deliberately with a digital signal processor. Adding delay is common in “time aligning” the left and right speakers in a stereo sound system.

Electricians and engineers often discuss phase angles in AC waveforms when driving inductive loads like electric motors. In these cases, the voltage applied to the motor may be “out of phase” with the current flowing through the motor. The same thing happens with speakers and passive crossover networks. These components’ reactive elements (inductance and capacitance) can cause the current and voltage to be “out of phase.” These phase shifts are why we can’t accurately measure the power out of an amplifier without measuring the phase angle between current and voltage. If that was confusing, don’t fret. These are concepts that engineers and technicians learn about in college.

We often talk about degrees when discussing the phase of two waveforms. One complete cycle of a sine wave is 360 degrees. A half-cycle is 180 degrees. The angle between when the sine wave initially moves from the 0-volt level to the first peak is 90 degrees. Here is an example of a 90-degree phase shift between two waveforms:

Signal Phase
In this example, the yellow waveform lags the pink waveform by 90 degrees.

Here’s what a 360-degree phase shift looks like:

Signal Phase
In this example, the yellow waveform lags the pink waveform by 360 degrees.

Understanding that the starting points of the two waveforms differ is crucial to understanding how audio waveforms interact. If you were to “align” the peaks and valleys, we’d think these signals were “in phase.” This practice is a common issue for people who try to “time align” a subwoofer to a midbass speaker by reversing the polarity of one relative to the other, then adjusting a delay so there is a sizeable acoustic null shown on an RTA at the crossover frequency. This practice doesn’t consider the start time of the audio signals. Considering phase and start time is required to deliver a system where the sound from the subwoofer arrives at the listening position at the same time as the midbass or midrange drivers.

Why Are Signal Phase and Polarity Important in Car Audio Systems?

For people who’ve upgraded their vehicles with a radio and two pair of speakers, the primary concern is that the acoustic polarity of all the speakers in the system is the same. When a speaker produces a sound, it should combine acoustically with the output of other speakers in the system. You can test this quickly without any special tools.

Play music with a reasonable amount of bass. Use the balance and fader controls to listen to one speaker at a time. Start with the front left speaker. Now, use the balance to add the front right speaker so both play. The relative bass level should increase when you add the second speaker. If it doesn’t, the wiring likely has a polarity problem.

Repeat the test with the front left speaker playing, then use the fader control to add the left rear speaker. Once again, the bass should increase. If it does, fade rearward so only the left-rear speaker is playing. Now, use the balance control to add the right-rear speaker. Once again, we should get more bass. If the bass decreases when a second speaker plays, drop by a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer and ask them to check the wiring.

Signal Phase
Using the fader and balance controls on your radio is an easy way to ensure that all speakers work together.

Signal Summing and Cancellation

Sometimes the distances between speakers cause incomplete summing of all frequencies. Let’s go back to looking at audio waveforms for a second. If two signals have the same amplitude, frequency content and starting times, how they add together (called summing) is predictable.

Signal Phase
The blue trace is the sum of two signals that are in phase.

In the example above, the signals combine perfectly and the total amplitude doubles. An example would be listening to music at home on a set of stereo speakers and sitting equidistant from both speakers. When it’s perfect, or at least pretty good, signals that are equal in amplitude and in phase in both channels appear to come from a spot between the speakers. Some call this a “phantom center image.” It’s just how stereo recording works and doesn’t require a fancy name.

Let’s look at how signals with different phase relationships sum. First, let’s look at two waveforms, of which one is reversed in polarity.

Signal Phase
The blue trace shows the result of combining the pink and yellow traces.

If one speaker moves outward and the other moves inward, their output should cancel. If you have a pair of subwoofers and one is wired backward, the result is that the system produces no bass.

Now, what happens when one signal arrives before another? Here are the waveforms if one signal lagged the other by 90 degrees:

Signal Phase
The result of combining audio signals where there is a 90-degree delay between them.

A few bad things happen when signals don’t start simultaneously. In terms of the combined waveforms, the amplitude only increases by 25% instead of 100%. This happens if you’re at home, sitting much closer to one stereo speaker than the other. The same happens in your car, where the left door speaker is maybe 30 inches away, and the right is 45 inches away.

Audio Content and Signal Summing

Remember, music is not a single frequency, as we’ve shown in the oscilloscope plots. It’s a combination of thousands of frequencies. We don’t talk about the phase between audio signals; we talk about delay times. Every frequency has a different wavelength. So if there is a timing difference between the signals, some frequencies combine, and others cancel. The result produces an uneven frequency response.

Let’s combine some signals in Adobe Audition to demonstrate this.

I created two sine sweeps. These are 20-second tracks that start at 20 Hz and increase in frequency by 20 kHz. The image below shows that the left and right channels are equal in amplitude and phase.

Signal Phase
A portion of our sine sweeps showing that the left and right channels are equal in phase and amplitude.

Let’s look at the frequency response of the two signals:

Signal Phase
Averaged frequency response of the two sine sweeps.

The frequency response graph isn’t perfectly flat because I don’t have control over the speed at which the sweep occurs. In short, the bass is present for longer than the highs. What you need to know is that the response is flat and smooth.

Let’s add about 1.7 milliseconds of delay to the right channel waveform. This is the time it takes sound to travel about 24 inches. That’s not an uncommon path length difference between a vehicle’s left and right speakers.

Signal Phase
The results of combining two sine sweeps with one channel delayed 1.7 milliseconds from the other.

As you can see, the results are dramatic. The frequency response is full of dips. We call this comb filtering, which happens when two sound sources are at different distances from the listening or measuring position. This could be attributed to path length differences between speakers or to a speaker’s sound reflecting off a surface and recombining with the direct-path sound. If there are path length differences, your installer can use a digital signal processor to delay the signal to the closer speaker. There isn’t much you can do about reflections other than to relocate the speakers.

Audio Signal Phase and Polarity

We hope this serves as a primer to help you understand the concepts of audio signal phase and polarity. A solid understanding of these concepts is crucial to designing and calibrating car audio systems that sound amazing. If you want better sound from your car audio system, drop by a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer today. Ask to hear one of their demo vehicles and discuss the options for improving your vehicle’s stereo.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Product Spotlight: Momento M8 Max

Momento M8 Max

There are now hundreds of dash cameras on the market. If you are serious about protecting yourself from fraud and false accusations or simply want to capture those incredible once-in-a-lifetime moments, then you want a high-quality camera with excellent image quality. Momento’s latest flagship dash camera is called the M8 Max, and it’s the perfect choice for your car or truck. Let’s check it out!

Momento M8 Max Features

Let’s start by looking at the specifications of the new Momento M8 Max, which is also known as the MD-8400. This is the top-of-the-line in the three-model series. The M8 Max features a 4K Sony IMX image sensor for razor-sharp image capture at 30 frames per second. A secondary camera that can be pointed out the rear window features full HD (1920 x 1080 resolution) is also included in the kit. The system comes with a 64 GB memory card but can be upgraded to a 256 GB card for more storage. The M8 Max includes a GPS receiver to store vehicle location and speed.

The main power cable is also included in the box. This is a hard-wired cable, not a cigarette lighter plug. As such, your installer will need to find suitable constant 12-volt, switched accessory and ground connection points under the dash. A micro-SD to SD card adapter is also included.

Momento M8 Max
The camera on the Momento M8 Max can be adjusted to work with the slope of any windshield – from a Corvette to a transport truck.
Momento M8 Max
The M8 Max is ready for your installer to integrate into your vehicle to provide the ultimate protection against fraud and staged accidents.

Two- and Three-Camera Support Modes

Out of the box, the M8 Max is set up to handle dual-camera recording. However, if you want to add a third camera, like the IC6 interior camera, the M8 Max can be flashed with firmware to record from three sources simultaneously. The IC6 is ideal for taxis, limousines, buses, rideshare and company-owned vehicles. When flashed into three-camera mode, the system captures video from the front camera in 2K mode due to data storage bandwidth constraints.

Momento M8 Max
The M8 Max kit includes a full-HD resolution rear camera to capture what happens behind your vehicle.
Momento M8 Max
The IC6 Infrared interior camera is a perfect upgrade for taxi, Uber or Lyft operators to monitor occupant activity.

ECO Parking Mode

An essential feature of the M8 Max is its ECO parking mode. Unlike conventional cameras that use the image sensor to monitor the area in front of the vehicle, the M8 Max uses a low-power radar transceiver. If someone walks in front of your car or truck while the camera is in parking mode, the system will wake up and capture a video of the activity. Once the object has passed, it goes back into ECO Mode. The benefit of radar-based monitoring is that the camera consumes about 90% less power than video monitoring units. This means less drain on your vehicle battery and days of monitoring instead of hours.

Voice Recognition

The M8 Max includes voice recognition features. You can say “Hi, Momento,” then wait for the chime and say “Save Video.” The system will start a manual recording that is saved to a dedicated folder on the micro-SD card. Other voice commands include Enable and Disable Mic, Enable and Disable Wi-Fi, Switch Wi-Fi (between 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz modes), and Enable and Disable Privacy mode.

Compact, Flexible Design with Manual Controls

The Momento M8 Maxi-fi is one of the lowest-profile dash cameras on the market. It attaches to your windshield with the included 3M VHB tape behind the rearview mirror. Once in place, the camera tilts upwards or down to ensure perfect coverage in front of the vehicle. The viewing angle is 112 degrees on the horizontal plane and 96 degrees vertically.

There are two buttons on the face of the Momento M8 Max, making it very intuitive to use. Pressing the left Wi-Fi button toggles Wi-Fi on and off. Pressing the right REC (Record) button initiates a manual recording in the event you witness something. Holding the REC button for three seconds turns off the mic. Holding the Wi-Fi button for 10 seconds will format the memory card.

The Momento Smartphone App

All three Momento M8 dashcams are compatible with the free Momento App for Android and iOS devices. Once you have connected your smart device to the M8 Max using 2.4 or 5 GHz Wi-Fi, the app lets you view the live video feed from the camera. This is how your installer will initially set up the camera.

The app lets you view and download stored files from any of the five galleries: Driving, Driving Events, Parking, Parking Events and Manual. You can preview the video at 600p resolution or download the full-resolution version and save it with your files or images for sharing.

The app provides access to many configuration options. These options include sensitivity adjustments for the integrated accelerometer to determine when event videos will be recorded. You can also set the automatic low-battery cut-off voltage or allocate different storage space for driving and parking videos. You can also change vehicle speed units between MPH and KM/H, depending on whether or not the camera uses radar parking mode, camera exposure, and the optional Travelapse mode. In Travelapse, the camera records at one frame per second to compress a long trip into a short video. If the accelerometer detects an impact, the system will store a 30-frame-per-second video starting seven seconds before the event trigger. The app also allows you to initiate a firmware update if and when it is introduced.

Momento M8 Max
The Momento App provides access to stored videos and system configuration settings.

The Ultimate Driving Protection Solution

If you want a premium dash camera with excellent image quality and class-leading features, visit a local authorized retailer and ask for a demonstration of the Momento M8 Max. They can complete the installation to ensure your camera will work reliably to capture everything that happens while you’re driving.

For more information on Momento safety products, visit their website. You should also follow them on Facebook and Instagram. Finally, their YouTube channel has videos about all of their products.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Driver Safety, PRODUCTS, RESOURCE LIBRARY Tagged With: Momento

Explaining The Class SB Car Audio Amplifier

Class SB Amp

There will always be debates about whether a Class D amplifier can sound as good as a Class AB. We’ve proven that it all depends on who designs the amplifier. We also see mumblings about single-ended amps versus full-bridge designs. STMicroelectronics created a different and unexpected way to deliver efficient power. These amplifiers are categorized Class SB and Class SBI. Let’s see if we can explain how they work.

Amplifier Output Device Topologies

Before we dig into the Class SB amplifier, we need to clarify a few things. There are two ways to configure the driver devices (transistors or MOSFETS) to provide large amounts of current to speakers. In a Class A configuration, the output device is halfway on when no audio is playing. The audio signal can modulate the output from its resting point at 50% up to nearly 100% and down to nearly 0%. While extremely linear, these designs are notoriously inefficient and waste large amounts of energy. A Class A amplifier circuit has a maximum efficiency of 25% and only gets worse as the output level decreases from full. Playing nothing at all, a true Class A amplifier wastes half the maximum current delivery capability of the power supply as heat.

Class SB Amp
A generalization of how a transistor in a Class A amplifier operates.

In a Class B amplifier, we dedicate one transistor to the positive half of the audio waveform and a second to the negative half. When no music is playing, the output devices are functionally off.

Class SB Amp
A generalization of how transistors in a Class B amplifier operate.

We have to add a little voltage to the output devices so that the transition from one to the other is smooth. Many low-quality amplifiers don’t do this well. In those instances, we’ve seen a little step in the waveform through the transition. This step is called crossover distortion. When executed smoothly, there is no step. This mode of operation is commonly called a Class AB output device configuration. In reality, it’s just a voltage-biased Class B, but there’s clearly no going back on the name now.

Class SB Amp
A small amount of biasing in a Class AB amplifier eliminates crossover distortion and improves sound quality.

In this context, Class A and Class B are called output device topologies. These are the only two ways output devices can be wired.

Class D Operation

When we talk about Class D amplifiers, we aren’t discussing how the output devices are configured. Class D is a description of the signal used to drive the output devices. Most Class D amplifiers use a Class AB output device configuration.

As you can see in the image below, the analog audio waveform is chopped into little pieces by the Class D driver IC. The width of the spikes relative to the switching frequency represents the output level. Very narrow spikes produce small amounts of output, and very wide spikes produce high output levels.

Class SB Amp
Most Class D amplifiers use output devices in a Class AB configuration.

The benefit of Class D operation is that the output devices are switched fully on or off. They spend very little time part-way on. In essence, they block all current flow or allow it all through. Transistors and MOSFET devices are least efficient when they allow half the current through – as we saw in a Class A configuration. The result is a dramatic improvement in efficiency. Many well-engineered Class D amplifiers have 92% total efficiency.

Amplifier Integrated Circuits

Before we go off the rails with Class SB, let’s look at dedicated amplifier ICs. Almost every car radio for the last few decades uses a single chip as an amplifier. These chips typically have four channels of amplification and all the protection circuitry required to prevent DIYers from blowing up their radios. Most IC amplifiers provide 16 to 21 watts of power into 4-ohm loads from each channel.

Class SB Amp
Amplifier ICs like this example from Toshiba are commonplace in car radios.

Sony took things further with their High Power radios and used a Texas Instruments IC called the TAS5414C. In their head unit applications, I’ve measured over 42 watts of power from each channel. In what Sony calls their Subwoofer Direct mode, I’ve measured over 76 watts of power.

Class SB Amp
Sony’s High Power head units can easily produce 45 watts of continuous power from the four amplifier channels.

Bridge-Tied-Load Amplifiers

Most head units have only the vehicle’s battery voltage available to drive the speakers. They don’t typically have step-up power supplies like an amplifier. As such, we can only get about 13.5 or 14 volts across the speaker terminals. This means we are limited to a theoretical maximum of 24.5 watts. In reality, we see a few watts less as some voltage is wasted in the amplifier circuitry.

If your installer were to look at the output of a car radio at full power on an oscilloscope, you’d see the following waveforms on the speaker wires.

Class SB Amp
The waveforms present on the speaker wires of a typical car radio.

If we turn the volume down to almost nothing, we’d see the following:

Class SB Amp
The output of a typical car radio playing a sine wave at a very low volume.

As you can see, both speaker wires have a DC offset voltage. When no audio is playing, there’s about 6 to 6.5 volts present on the speaker wires. Because the voltage is common to both wires, the speaker doesn’t move. The speaker only responds to differences between the wires.

Now, let’s look at a single-ended amplifier. This would be an example of one channel of a typical car audio amplifier.

Class SB Amp
What your installer would measure with a scope probe on each terminal of a single-ended amplifier.

You can see that the probe with the green trace rests at the ground voltage. The probe with the purple trace shows the output voltage swinging from positive to negative and back. The speaker will move forward and rearward to follow the purple waveform.

STMicroelectronics’ Class SB and Class SBI

OK, now you should understand how output-switching devices can be configured and how different waveforms can be used to increase efficiency. STMicroelectronics combined things in the Class SB amplifiers to create something unique and, to put it mildly, creative. STMicroelectronics uses the SB abbreviation for “single-ended bridged” and SBI as “SB improved.” Their claim is Class AB sound quality with a 50% improvement in efficiency.

Class SB amplifiers function as single-ended amplifiers at low to moderate power levels. The waveform sweeps from negative to positive on one speaker lead while the other rests at ground.

Class SB Amp
The output of a Class SB amplifier operating at low to moderate levels.

If this were a typical Class AB amplifier, the output waveform would clip if we increased the signal to the amplifier such that the output tried to exceed the rail voltage limits. That would resemble the waveform below.

Class SB Amp
The waveform of a Class AB amplifier driven into clipping.

The Class SB amplifier gets creative when it runs out of rail voltage at high output levels. Check this out.

Class SB Amp
The oh-so-clever operation of the STM Class SB amplifier as seen on an oscilloscope.

When the main output reaches clipping, the “normally at ground” output increases voltage in the opposite direction. The result is a net increase in amplitude. That’s very creative. In application, having full control over every component in the amplifier is crucial to this design functioning properly. With everything housed in a single IC, STM has that control.

Class SB Amp
An example of a four-channel Flexiwatt-25 cased Class SB Power amplifier IC.

Is a Class SB Amplifier Better?

Before claiming that STMicroelectronics has reinvented the car audio amplifier, consider that these ICs have specific applications. They are designed to be compact and efficient. As such, amplifiers created with them at the core can be compact with smaller heatsinks than an equivalent Class AB amplifier. Further, these amplifiers are available with digital inputs. This connectivity makes them ideal for integrating into a closed-network infotainment system, like MOST, AVB or A2B offer. The amplifiers produce about 45 watts of power. This might be good for the main channels of a factory-installed car audio system but won’t be adequate for high-power aftermarket solutions or subwoofers.

What Do Consumers Need to Know about Class SB Amplifiers?

So, what does the typical consumer need to know about Class SB amplifiers? The answer is not much. That said, knowing what new technologies are in use is always good. Class SB amplifiers are primarily a solution for vehicle manufacturers and low- to mid-power audio systems. Installers and technicians must understand how to recognize audio signals from a Class SB amplifier when integrating digital signal processors and new amplifiers into a vehicle. Many, but not all, aftermarket audio upgrades work with Class SB-powered factory-installed source units. If you want more performance from your car audio system, drop by a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer and ask them about the amplifiers, speakers, source units and subwoofers that will deliver the sound you want.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

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